Has anyone ever compared a BIT 20 (or Torus equivalent) to a PS Audio P10?

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A use an RM20 and plug everything into it. TV, HT receiver, Direct TV box, Oppo, PS4, music server, DAC, preamp and 845 amps. Is there a way to calculate if I am taxing the unit?


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A watt meter would tell you, but you aren't.  Only think on that list that can draw significant current is the 845 amps. You can use a kill-a-watt to measure the current draw for a quick test.


Good to know, thank you!


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You made my point. Why buy a 20 amp unit then? Pay less for the 15 amp unit and enjoy. And he'll never use 10 amps either. But having the headroom in the unit is needed in my book to handle the transients so the tranny has time to recover if you put the entire system through it.
I never said I was concerned about safety in this scenario as it is unlikely to ever be a problem. It is an economics and practicality issue.
And the 20 amp unit does not need an adapter cable as the 20 amp unit has a standard plug without the dogleg 20 amp-only feature. Easily seen in the owners manual on-line.
I have the Torus RM20 and used it at AXPONA. Easily tripped it with our setup. We added another 20 amp circuit for the amps. Still tripped the circuits. Finally had to go with three 20 amp circuits to have enough power. Speakers used are 95 dB efficient at 30 Hz, but over 100 dB/1 watt from 50 Hz and up.  :)

The 20 amp unit does need an adapter cable or plug if using a 15 amp outlet. Picture is from the BIT20 manual and matches my cord and RM20 manual:

Menards carrys adapters.

Phil A

Doesn't surprise me about big amps.  I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit for my RM20 and also have two 15 amp circuits for other stuff in the main system.  The main system is an integrated AV system with a preamp with HT Bypass and basically all the 2-channel audio stuff is plugged into the RM20.  In my old place, I had one separate 15 amp circuit with the 20amp IEC to 15 amp cord.  The rest of the items in the old place were plugged into the great room common outlets.  So when I had the new place wired, I decided that in addition to the 20 amp circuit, it won't hurt anything to have a bit extra.


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Anyone ever put a "Kill-a-Watt" meter on these current hungry systems?


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I recently picked-up a PS Audio P300.  Surprisingly, the immediate difference I noticed was the video quality on the TV; much sharper picture and richer colours.  I also plugged in my mac mini and disc player.  I think there is an improvement, although I haven't used it with my longer term speakers yet for proper comparison.

One of the reasons I purchased the P300 is the ability to input 240V & output 120V, plus alter the frequency from 60hz to 50hz.  This allows me to use it for source and preamp electronics in different regions.  I have two living locations with different voltages, so I can now use my 120V components in a 230V region. This is particularly important for Krell electronics, which have 50/60 hz detectors that won't allow use with basic transformers.

My question here is: Does anyone know of any other company making power regenerators with variable output voltage and frequency similar to the PS Audio P300 & P600?  I am thinking of picking up another model for use and comparison. 

Thanks for any help you can provide.