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There may be a manufacturer's code on the back of the magnet. With luck, Fisher may have used the same driver in other models, some of which may be available on ebay. If not, you might send a working driver to someone like Danny Richie of GR-Research for evaluation. You could then use the measurements to at least come close in finding a usable modern replacement until an original becomes available. They seem to have collector value, even with that big unbraced boomy box. I'd bet internal bracing would do wonders to tighten the bass.
Even replacing/repairing a vintage driver means it will probably never match what you had in terms of break-in, environmental exposure, etc. My speakers use drivers that have been modded and no longer produced, so live with the knowledge that when one dies, I'll be shopping for new speakers.
I need a 5.25 inch driver, 8 ohms impedance, with a frequency range of 1500-3000 Hz; any suggestions? With a link would be preferable, thus far I have nil.
Unfortunately, to do it right, things aren't that easy. That's why I suggested sending a working version to someone that can take measurements (Theil-Small parameters). Making a speaker fit into an existing crossover is damn near impossible for a DIY guy and not easy for a pro. Of course, I prefaced by saying "to do it right". If you just want sound, find a midrange driver with a sealed back and plug it in. Of course, you might insert a 85 db driver into a speaker that needs a 93 db one... in which you will never hear your midrange. Or vice versa in which all you will hear is your midrange. Probably not what you want to hear, but I'd plug in a mid, try to get it close and then sell it. For the price that they are asking for those, you can get a far superior speaker of modern design.
So, if you do just plug in a mid and sell, would you disclose the issue?And if you did would you expect same money as others?