[mlundy57]

OK, it looks like the best option would be your design. Yes, I'd really appreciate it if you could take some measurements, then perhaps we can ask Peter J to do a Sketchup on it. That would be awesome!

Sure thing. Will this weekend be soon enough?

[Early B.]

Sure thing. Will this weekend be soon enough?

Fantastic, sir!

[mlundy57]

I got my 3x8 H-Frame's measurements. Here they are:

Overall Height - 29.50"

Top - 14.75" x 14.00" x 1.50" (14.75" is front to back) This ends up with 1.00" overhangs F&B and 0.75" on the sides

Base - 22.50" x 15.50" x 1.50" Overhangs: Front - 1.00"; Back - 9.00"; Sides 1.50"

Sides - 26.50" x 12.75" x 1.50"

Baffle - 26.50" x 9.50" x 0.75" (9.50" width is for but joints) Driver spacing - 4.50" in for top & bottom; center - 13.25"

Braces - 6.00" x 9.50" x 0.75"

From the front:
The top brace is centered 8.875" down from the top of the baffle (8.50" x 9.50" opening)
The bottom brace is centered 9.125" up from the bottom of the baffle (8.75" x 9.5" opening)

From the back:
The top brace is centered 8.375" down from the top of the baffle (8.00" opening)
The bottom brace is centered 8.625" up from the bottom (8.25" opening)

This makes for a very tight fit, I had to sand a divot into some of the braces to have enough clearance for the driver to fit. I used a Dremel with a wide sanding drum to do this.  If I had made the baffle and sides 1/4" to 1/2" taller I would not have had to do this but I was trying to end up with the center of the Wedgie tweeter as close to 39" as possible.

The tight fit also made soldering the drivers up tricky but doable.

Mike

[Peter J]

Mike, I'll get this drawn in the next few days. Perhaps I should draw it with the wiggle room and if someone wants to tighten things up they can. If you were to not be concerned about height, would the optimal opening for driver be 9 1/2" square?

And since I can't find the tenths and hundreds on my measuring tape, I'll use inches 

[Early B.]

Mike & Peter --

Really appreciate this, and I'm sure others will, as well.

Mike -- what are the dimensions of the amp box? 

[mlundy57]

Mike, I'll get this drawn in the next few days. Perhaps I should draw it with the wiggle room and if someone wants to tighten things up they can. If you were to not be concerned about height, would the optimal opening for driver be 9 1/2" square?

And since I can't find the tenths and hundreds on my measuring tape, I'll use inches 

Peter,

Yes, 9 1/2" square would make installing the drivers easier to install. So if it was not going to be a stand for the Wedgies taller would be better.

Mike & Peter --

Really appreciate this, and I'm sure others will, as well.

Mike -- what are the dimensions of the amp box? 

Early B..

I built my amp boxes for the HX300's out of 3/4" MDF. The outside dimensions are: 10 7/8" x 8 1/4" x 5".

Mike

[Peter J]

Peter,

Yes, 9 1/2" square would make installing the drivers easier to install. So if it was not going to be a stand for the Wedgies taller would be better.

Mike

 Mike  or Danny , what's the through-hole diameter for these drivers?

[Captainhemo]

If you guys weren't concerned about the height as Peter said, making the front/rear the same would allow you to easily use dado's (you could still do it with the offset braces but it's much smi;er to cut if they are aligned0 which makes assembly  SO  much easier. All you'd have to do is make the braces and baffle an inch wider then use .5" x .75" dado's  for it all.. I've even added a couple  locating dowels in places to make these real simple for folks to assemble.  I'll start a thread on them  shorlty to discuss a couple options etc






jay

[mlundy57]

Mike  or Danny , what's the through-hole diameter for these drivers?

Peter,

The outside is 8 3/4" diameter if you want to recess the drivers. The through hole is 7 1/2"

Mike

[corndog71]

If you guys weren't concerned about the height as Peter said, making the front/rear the same would allow you to easily use dado's (you could still do it with the offset braces but it's much smi;er to cut if they are aligned0 which makes assembly  SO  much easier. All you'd have to do is make the braces and baffle an inch wider then use .5" x .75" dado's  for it all.. I've even added a couple  locating dowels in places to make these real simple for folks to assemble.  I'll start a thread on them  shorlty to discuss a couple options etc






jay

Man, I could've used those cuts!  Without them clamping the pieces together is a real pain in the butt.  Perpendicular pieces can slide around as you clamp them down.   

[Captainhemo]

Man, I could've used those cuts!  Without them clamping the pieces together is a real pain in the butt.  Perpendicular pieces can slide around as you clamp them down.   

Yup,  I figured that when I  looked at the plans before building my first H-frame hence the decision to start using the dado's. When I built the triples, I found adding a locating dowel  would have also helped as if the baffle tries to shift , it is can be a PITA trying to shift it back.
These packs will have a dowel in the center  of each baffle dado for alignment and  one in each end of the side panels for aligning  the  top and base..

jay

[Peter J]

Here's a couple of quick renders. Some things are sort of subjective, like top and bottom overhangs. This is just a jumping off spot and if I were building, I'd do as Jay suggested and plan on locating pieces via dowels, dados or some means. Many ways to skin the cat.

 If one plans on recessing driver flange, I'd think you'd want to thicken the baffle. Didn't draw the extended base, but that's just a matter of adding to one dimension. FWIW, I almost never build without having pertinent pieces (amps, drivers) in hand so I can assess things on the fly or puzzle something out.


 

[mlundy57]

Sorry about the recessed driver comment. I did not recess the drivers on the H-Frames. I was thinking about the Wedge bases I built with 1 1/2" thick walls where I did recess the drivers.

Mike