[flavo]

I'm just about done, I only completed one speaker. The other is in the garage still.
I'd like some opinions on what to do for bases? Right now they are just sitting on 2x10's









In real life, the paint on the back is a darker brown and better matches the grain. I was thinking of using a brown grille like the omegas below. Or I may go no grille at all.
What do you think I should do for a base? I like the omega base too. It looks more like a steel color then black. But it is described as black in the write up. But I'm completely open to suggestions. I even considered concrete for a bit so I wouldnt have to worry about mop water on the bases.
Thoughts?

[persisting1]

Those are really, really nice. I like that you opted not to round over the baffles.

I'd say put the money in the bases rather than grills.

Have you considered a natural stone base?

[PDR]

Those are really, really nice...

Build pics? or maybe a bit on material used, method, etc.

I think I would go with a solid color base......prob a satin black....slate?

Those are really, really nice.....

[Captainhemo]

I agree, nicely done 
I don't know how much, but I think there'll be some consequence to omitting the  vertical radius / roundover on the baffle.....

I wonder  if you  could find a spray  on slate finish and what it would like on the bases /

jay

[cody69]

Looks really great -- I like the bold lines of this veneer grain pattern.

I agree with others on a solid color for the base.

If you plan on grill covers... and if you follow the omega and go with brown fabric, then maybe use the brown paint you used on the back. This way you won't have too many different colors competing for attention.

If on the other hand, you don't put on grills and leave the black drivers showing, you can you darker (black) bases that will blend in complement the drivers.

You're really going to enjoy these. Pls post final pictures and your impressions once you have them up and running.

[Danny Richie]

That wood looks great.

I'd put them on a wider base that is about 14" wide and the length of the speaker. That will help stabilize them well.

Also, you really need to round off the inside edge of the woofer through holes or it will have some negative effect on the response.

[lacro]

Man - You do nice work I like the look without the grills. Your idea of concrete is a good one. You could pour your own bases which would allow you to embed inserts for spikes, and the concrete can be colored while mixing. Or... you may be able to find concrete stepping stones or pavers that are the right size at Lowes/HD. 

For the needed roundovers you will need this router bit:http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=54539

[flavo]

Those are really, really nice. I like that you opted not to round over the baffles.

I'd say put the money in the bases rather than grills.

Have you considered a natural stone base?

Thanks so much for all the kind words everybody. It feels really nice.
The grilles won't be much of a problem to avoid at this point. I forgot to mount the magnets beneath the veneer last night

By natural stone, if you mean slate like some of the others, I had. Then I moved to concrete as it can be shaped to any size with the holes and everything else built right into the mold. Can be colored and buffed to any gloss level.  I made my kitchen counter tops out of it a few years ago and I really like it.

[flavo]

Looks really great -- I like the bold lines of this veneer grain pattern.

I agree with others on a solid color for the base.

If you plan on grill covers... and if you follow the omega and go with brown fabric, then maybe use the brown paint you used on the back. This way you won't have too many different colors competing for attention.

Agreed. But the bases on the omegas are not brown and I think look wonderful! Are they not your cup O tea?
Oh and these have been up and running for a month or 2 now. I just pulled them back out and finished them as I wasn't sure I was going to like them as much as I did .
Now I'm adding some H frames for bottom end.

I agree, nicely done 
I don't know how much, but I think there'll be some consequence to omitting the  vertical radius / roundover on the baffle.....

I wonder? Hopefully Danny will chime in about that and won't be too bad. I didn't realize that part was as important. I was more concerned with the hard edges on the back of the inside of the baffle.

Those are really, really nice...

Build pics? or maybe a bit on material used, method, etc.

I think I would go with a solid color base......prob a satin black....slate?

Those are really, really nice.....

 Again, Thanks! I don't have many build pics. I tried taking some but the beer kept getting in the way. I'll post up a bit of what I did take though.

[flavo]

That wood looks great.

I'd put them on a wider base that is about 14" wide and the length of the speaker. That will help stabilize them well.

Also, you really need to round off the inside edge of the woofer through holes or it will have some negative effect on the response.

That was my main fear. The only reason I didn't originally, is because I had a different build idea. Now I'm semi stuck with this. I will try and find a round over bit with a top bearing. Fingers crossed. Of course there's other ways to skin that cat. But that would by far be the easiest that I know of. Other ideas?
Are we not concerned with the hard edges on the back of the baffle? Should I take some triangular foam and place it where the speaker wire isn't softening the edge?
BTW, the woofer holes were rounded over.

Oh yeah, I will probably end up putting these in my HT set up. Is the Voce out of the question now except for the used market? Is there a suitable replacement?

[flavo]

For the needed roundovers you will need this router bit:http://www.audiocircle.com/image.php?id=54539

BOOM! thanks, haha. I knew it existed. 
Edit: It's pretty elusive. Does anyone know where to find this? I'm trying top bearing roundover for my search and coming up with nothing.

Rather then spikes, I'm thinking of furniture movers of some sort. I know there are some "audiophile" units that are threaded for use on speaker outriggers but they are ungodly expensive. I think I'll look today at Lowes and maybe make my own. I have hard wood and will move these around a bit from time to time. Unless you all have more ideas for me?

Thanks, Mike

[Keithh]

Nice looking veneer.
Hear is a picture of the X-statics I built a few years ago. They have bases similar to the Omegas and
will give you an idea of what it looks like on the X-static.

[Captainhemo]

flavo , my apologies,  I've got extremely poor visioin and didn''t realize it was only the rear vertical edge  you had omitted the roudover on. After reading  your later posts, probably not  a big deal

Keith,  those look   great as well, really like  them   

jay

[Danny Richie]

Are we not concerned with the hard edges on the back of the baffle? Should I take some triangular foam and place it where the speaker wire isn't softening the edge?

The little side wings aren't going to have much effect. It is about the same as if the baffle was that thick all the way through.

The sharp edge on the woofer through hole does cause some edge reflection because it is right up on the woofer and loads it slightly. 

[londonbarn]

If I was Flavo, I would be most concerned with the dog... He is lookin' pretty suspicious there....  Guaranteed when you turn your head, he will lift his leg start applying his own "finish" to the speaker.....     (assuming it is of the male persuasion)

[lacro]

BOOM! thanks, haha. I knew it existed. 
Edit: It's pretty elusive. Does anyone know where to find this? I'm trying top bearing roundover for my search and coming up with nothing.

Rather then spikes, I'm thinking of furniture movers of some sort. I know there are some "audiophile" units that are threaded for use on speaker outriggers but they are ungodly expensive. I think I'll look today at Lowes and maybe make my own. I have hard wood and will move these around a bit from time to time. Unless you all have more ideas for me?

Thanks, Mike

I found this: http://www.woodcraft.com/product/823691/cmt-lonnie-bird-inverted-roundover-profile-router-bit-12sh-112od.aspx#ARTICLES

[Peter J]

Commonly called round under bit. Quickly Googled and that brings several possibilities.

[persisting1]

Keithh, do you have a link to your build?

[Keithh]

No, sorry I don't. I followed Danny's plans except for the front baffle and base. I love the looks of Salk speakers
so I was trying to make them look like they came from Salk.
The front baffle is split into two pieces. The bottom baffle piece is 10" long 3/4" thick mdf. The top baffle piece, which the speakers
are mounted to, is 1-1/2" mdf. There is also a small brace inside the cabinet where the two baffle pieces butt up together so it is
properly sealed.

[persisting1]

No, sorry I don't. I followed Danny's plans except for the front baffle and base. I love the looks of Salk speakers
so I was trying to make them look like they came from Salk.
The front baffle is split into two pieces. The bottom baffle piece is 10" long 3/4" thick mdf. The top baffle piece, which the speakers
are mounted to, is 1-1/2" mdf. There is also a small brace inside the cabinet where the two baffle pieces butt up together so it is
properly sealed.

Would you mind posting pictures of your X-Statics here?
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=114919.0