[RonR]

I've finally got around to finishing the case of my GK-1R and putting it into my system alongside a Naim 250, replacing my trusty old Naim 32.5 Preamp. After just a few hours it's already sounding pretty impressive.

A 55N+ will follow as soon as I've got around to finishing that (more metalwork ).

However, I now find that I'm short of some decent RCA interconnects (The Naim used DIN plugs for it's ICs, so I'm currently using whatever I had handy)

I know that this is like asking 'how long is a piece of string', but: Any recommendations for DIY or ready-made ICs that suit the AKSA?

[kyrill]

except from straight soldering my number ONE choice is "Eichmann Bullet Plugs" and it is also a DIY version. The difference is easily perceivable. But to be perfect you have to shield them or buy the more expensive silver ones

[Malcolm Fear]

I agree with Kyrill. Directly solder one end, use Eichmanns on the other.
I used to be a fan of CAT 5. I am now using silver coated copper (multistrand and teflon coated). A lot better.

[kyrill]

Well Malcolm
strip away the teflon and try yr cotton shoelaces  

PS but for the "common mode" noise rejection you still have to fold them into each other or shield them

[fos]

g'day all, I have also been making interconnects with eichmann bullets and cat 5/stranded copper but find they lack the cystal high end sounds.

I figure the next step is some stranded silver wire.

cotton shoelace for insulation though???

[kyrill]

the mantel around metal wire has a diëlectric constant. that effects the  signal passing thru.
The best diëlectric  is a vacuum:1
Next better is air: 1.00059
One of the worst is Mylar and PVC >3
PE, poly ethyleen is 2.25
Teflon: 2.1
Cotton :1.35

[andyr]

the mantel around metal wire has a diëlectric constant. that effects the  signal passing thru.
The best diëlectric  is a vacuum:1
Next better is air: 1.00059
One of the worst is Mylar and PVC >3
PE, polyethylene is 2.25
Teflon: 2.1
Cotton :1.35

Hi, Kyrill,

And silk??

Regards,

Andy

[kyrill]

You have experience with silk, Andyr?

I prefer silk too als silk is nice for two
but for voltages and current....
Silk: 2,5- 3,5

[andyr]

You have experience with silk, Andyr? ...

Only in my dreams, Kyrill ...  
I'm surprised it's rated at way higher than teflon given that, supposedly, Japanese audiophiles are supposed to love silk-wrapped wires in their point-to-point wired valve amps  

regards,

Andy

[Greg Erskine]

Hi, Kyrill,

And silk??

Regards,

Andy

Surely microfine wool would be better, Australian of course (maybe NZ).  

[andyr]

... Surely microfine wool would be better, Australian of course (maybe NZ).  

Interesting thought, Greg.  I wonder whether:
a) wool *is* better than cotton, and
b) whether microfine Merino would in fact be the best wool, uadio speaking?

As silk is a better heat insulator than cotton (think of those old polar explorers and mountaineers with their silk long-johns) yet seems to have a much higher dielectric constant, I suspect wool may not be much good.

Kyrill, can U tell us the dielectric constant for wool?

If it IS low then, yes, we'll have wonder about the relative "goodness" of Oz superfine "Zegna" Merino vs. NZ crap "carpet" wool!!  

Regards,

Andy

[Seano]

Kyrill may like those cotton shoelaces but can he be sure that the cotton in those shoelaces is the BEST cotton to use?  I live in a cotton growing area and at harvest time I can get handfuls of raw cotton easily. Pack it around those wires then wrap it all up in plumbers tape.  Too easy.  The cotton is pure, natural (well as natural as cotton is these days) and not beaten up by the production process. So it MUST sound better.

As for the wool, I'll wager it'll sound way b-aaa-etter if you use the raw lanolin soaked variety rather than cutting up an old cardigan, carpet or even Zegna. The lanolin will prevent static buildup - ever been zapped by a sheep? So head out there into the back blocks, crash tackle the nearest Merino and then try and explain to the local farmer that you were only after some insulation for your hi-fi..........yeah right.

Mind you......I've never been electrocuted by a silkworm either. Odd.

See. This is what happens when you start talking about wire. Wire should be simple. But it's not. And it makes people odd................

[jules]

how about feathers then?

Seriously though, maybe air is a perfectly workable option in many situations [/i]if the layout is planned in adance.

jules

[RonR]

Many thanks for the advice,

I'll use the Eichmann Bullets and some cotton-covered silver wire for my interconnects.
The GK-1 is settling down nicely and beginning to 'come on song' now. The sound is both smooth and detailed, with sparkling highs and articulate lows. It has been built from the start with the following modifications from the Hugh supplied items as per the "GK-1 Nirvana" thread:

Edit: Thanks to TimS for prompting - it's the "GK-1 Valhalla" thread.

C4 - Black Gate N
C10,11,12,14 - Black Gate Std
C6,7 - OSCON SG
C1 - MultiCap - RTX
C21 - Bypassed with REL-CAP - RTE 4700pF
C19 - Bypassed with POLYSTYRENE 120pF
Riken Ohms at R5, R9, R11, R22, R26A+B

One of the Hugh-supplied tubes was out of spec (Thanks to Hugh for helping in diagnosing this), so I found some NOS '60s Telefunken PCC189s which I'm quite pleased with.

I'm resisting the urge to work my way through the record collection until the 55 is built, which shouldn't be too long now....

Ron

[guest1632]

Well Malcolm
strip away the teflon and try yr cotton shoelaces  :wink:

PS but for the "common mode" noise rejection you still have to fold them into each other or shield them

[kyrill]

Hi Ray

Why the bold letters? I would reply anyway : )

For bas and mid (triamping with a kind of 6 AKSA monoblocks) I use OFC copper thread from
Kimber Kable OFC Hookup Wire

TeflonTM insulated, 20 gauge multi-gauge stranded Oxygen Free Copper (OFC) hookup wire..

I buy them at  http://www.welbornelabs.com/wire.htm
The Welborne cable is copper silver coated. I don't want that

the 20 or 18 gauge solid silver must be bought  without a sleeve. You will destroy the silver easily while removing the sleeve unless you have a dedicated wire stripper
Getting rid of the teflon is best done with a very sharp knive by removing a top layer over the length of the wire by holding the knive as paralell as possible to the wire while holding the wire with the thumb of your other hand..
I could only get my hands on white cotton shoelaces. Then yr hands have to be very clean!! Bright summer colors, I would prefer..
MAke the lengths longer than the shortest route so you can elegantly configure the wire in a neat manner following the amps inner configuration design.
At the end I use tubes which shrink with heat. Then I twisted the wires after they are dressed with the cotton.

I hope this helps.

Oh, one tip. The end of the wire is too sharp to "bluntly" put in the hollow laces. With the fine silver i bend the end in a "U" form.. The copper is soldered and with fine 220 sand paper rounded and made smooth

[kyrill]

Many thanks for the advice,

.....I'm resisting the urge to work my way through the record collection until the 55 is built, which shouldn't be too long now....

You will be surprised.

[kyrill]

.
Kyrill, can U tell us the dielectric constant for wool?
Andy

No I can't
Still a secret to be unfold on the web

..

[guest1632]

Hi Ray

Why the bold letters? I would reply anyway : )

For bas and mid (triamping with a kind of 6 AKSA monoblocks) I use OFC copper thread from
Kimber Kable OFC Hookup Wire

TeflonTM insulated, 20 gauge multi-gauge stranded Oxygen Free Copper (OFC) hookup wire..

I buy them at  http://www.welbornelabs.com/wire.htm
The Welborne cable is copper silver coated. I don't want that

the 20 or 18 gauge solid silver must be bought  without a sleeve. You will destroy the silv ...

[Greg Erskine]

Hey Ray,

The b in square brackets turns on bold and /b in square brackets turns it off.

Greg