Older BMW 3 series /mistake? /X3 suv?

jules · « **Reply #100 on:** 6 Jun 2018, 05:20 am »

Time can limit this but I'd suggest that if you can do some research, maybe with a BMW club, or just on specific issues like the brake pads you're having doubts about now, it puts you in control.

Stirman, I don't know how easy it is to do a visual check on BMW brake pads but I'd guess that if you take a wheel off you should see the reality immediately. As far as replacing them, you will probably do much better to find an aftermarket product. Just as an example, I own a Subaru WRX. The first time I took it to the Subaru agent to change the pads and rotors as recommended, it cost me $600 for the front pair only. They'd worn out in less than 40,000 miles. Second time around I bought high quality after-market items, fitted them myself and did discs and pads front and back for $300. The after-market discs have now been on the car for another 90,000 miles and are showing no sign of wear.

I suspect that some of the skills that were once part of being a mechanic have been lost with computerized analysis, partly because some faults can only be diagnosed by computer, partly because computer analysis often fails to name a fault and partly because mechanics can't aren't in a position to figure out what a computer can't, if that makes sense.

Yes, sounds as though you might need some more gas in your air-con but at least you can take the car to a non-BMW agent to have that sorted.

Is it clear what the warning lights are telling you?

Is the fan that operates to circulate air through the car when the air-con is on, working? If it isn't the air-con probably won't turn on at all.

You might be better off going to an auto-electrician to see if they can sort out some faults like the seat belt light and the warning lights.

mcgsxr · « **Reply #101 on:** 6 Jun 2018, 01:13 pm »

Good stuff costs money to maintain, there is no way around it.

That said, a trustworthy independent mech is gold. I'd join a few marque specific forums and look for regional insights about who the local "go to guys" are.

Assuming you replaced all 6 plugs, coils and wires, I could see the $ you spent. If I went to a dealer for my CLK for the same (16 plugs, 8 coils, 16 wires) it would likely run 2K. I can buy the parts online and have a local mech do it for half that.

Good luck with the BMW, I have fond memories of my 1995 318Ti!

S Clark · « **Reply #102 on:** 6 Jun 2018, 02:21 pm »

Quote from: mcgsxr on 6 Jun 2018, 01:13 pm

Good stuff costs money to maintain, there is no way around it.

I guess that depends on your definition of "good stuff". I drive a car to get me from one place to another, preferably as inexpensively as possible with a moderate degree of comfort. The original question was "Older BMW 3 series /mistake? /X3 suv?" Depends on what you are looking for. It would certainly be a mistake for me--- as a Honda/Toyota driver. Hondas and Toyotas certainly don't fit the "good stuff cost money to maintain". Most of why I consider them "good stuff" is because they don't cost a lot of money to maintain.

RDavidson · « **Reply #103 on:** 6 Jun 2018, 02:30 pm »

^ +1 for that.
Part of the joy of vehicle ownership, to me, is that the vehicle is reliable and/or easy and inexpensive to maintain. German luxury vehicles generally don't fall into the category of easy and inexpensive to maintain, so I stay away from them. This isn't a bash on German cars or people who buy them. I'm simply saying that one needs to understand what they're getting into and account for it as part of the cost of ownership. For some, this cost isn't a big deal and/or they know how to fix things themselves and/or are friends with a good mechanic.

mcgsxr · « **Reply #104 on:** 6 Jun 2018, 04:48 pm »

My daily driver (2009 Ford Fusion) works great as a reliable, comfortable enough vehicle to get me back and forth to the train station, ferry the kids, get groceries etc. I would say for that it is good.

It's not a german luxury car though.

The OP was sharing about his ownership experience, and I sought to do the same for my toy car/garage queen. I bought the 2005 CLK this year, and expect to put $ in it every year in spite of driving it only about 4K miles per year.

Of the 2, I darn well know that the CLK will cost me more each year for maintenance. Anyone who buys a used BMW/Mercedes/Audi should make that part of their buying decision.

I had a series of Honda Accords (6!) so I know exactly what you mean about reliable, affordable Japanese cars. I enjoyed mine for many years - the Accord I sold to buy the Fusion was 14 at the time.

Woodsea · « **Reply #105 on:** 7 Jun 2018, 02:03 pm »

If you are an Uber driver I would get a Toyota hybrid. My first gen Prius battery gave out at 200k, the battery swap was worth more than the entire vehicle. My Landcruiser has 200k and runs great. Just replacing the usual stuff now. I had an Acura Integra that lasted 214k, found out later it was a redundant heat sensor that made it quit periodically. Otherwise it was in fantastic shape.
Audi and VW cars have not fared so well for me. Honda Odyssey bought new was great, a second hand one was a money pit. If you can find a first generation Mercury Villager that is clean it will run freaking forever.
You are doing rough miles so find a comfortable car that has a warranty and gets incredible gas mileage!

timind · « **Reply #106 on:** 7 Jun 2018, 03:11 pm »

Quote from: Woodsea on 7 Jun 2018, 02:03 pm

If you are an Uber driver I would get a Toyota hybrid. My first gen Prius battery gave out at 200k, the battery swap was worth more than the entire vehicle. My Landcruiser has 200k and runs great. Just replacing the usual stuff now. I had an Acura Integra that lasted 214k, found out later it was a redundant heat sensor that made it quit periodically. Otherwise it was in fantastic shape.
Audi and VW cars have not fared so well for me. Honda Odyssey bought new was great, a second hand one was a money pit. If you can find a first generation Mercury Villager that is clean it will run freaking forever.
You are doing rough miles so find a comfortable car that has a warranty and gets incredible gas mileage!

My thoughts exactly. Using the bmw as a commercial vehicle makes no sense to me.

I owned a Mercury Villager 10+ years ago. It surprised me with how nice a vehicle it was. Nice, quiet ride, pretty much trouble free for the couple years I drove it. Getting one now though? A little long in the tooth.

Philistine · « **Reply #107 on:** 7 Jun 2018, 05:44 pm »

I have a 2006 E90 and a 2015 M235.

No way does the E90 go to a dealership, example: it refused to shift into sports mode. The forums pointed to wires rubbing next to the gearshift over time (10 years) and shorting out, it still functioned in normal mode but refused to engage sports mode or manual shift. The dealership would replace the complete shifter mechanism, over a grand in costs, my local guy did it (re-spliced the broken wires) for $150. It also doesn't go to Pep Boys: the 2006 E90 was the first generation that started to code components into the ECU, I've had to replace the battery once and it needs coding into the ECU, to prolong its life (allegedly), in order for optimum charging of the new battery. I'm sure Pep Boys don't do this?

You need to find a local reliable, honest, knowledgeable and trustworthy guy who's intimate with BMW's - he'll keep it going at the lowest cost.

I have a guy in Pittsburgh - not sure where you're located, but if it helps you can PM me for his contact info. If you're elsewhere you really need to reach out here or the BMW forums...

Woodsea · « **Reply #108 on:** 7 Jun 2018, 09:23 pm »

I owned a Mercury Villager 10+ years ago. It surprised me with how nice a vehicle it was. Nice, quiet ride, pretty much trouble free for the couple years I drove it. Getting one now though? A little long in the tooth.

Very long in the tooth for sure, but they are a steal for an Uber. Trick out the interior to whatever you like, make it eclectic (memorable but not tacky) Plus, you can do all the maintenance yourself. Saving up for just-off lease 2018 hybrid in 2020. I am sure there are other strange gems out there that you could take advantage, also.

RDavidson · « **Reply #109 on:** 7 Jun 2018, 11:41 pm »

Off topic, but Uber requires their "fleet" to be no older than a few years. Can't remember the exact number. That's why you don't see complete jalopies working for Uber or Lyft.

jules · « **Reply #110 on:** 8 Jun 2018, 01:03 am »

Quote

Good stuff costs money to maintain, there is no way around it.

Spare parts are something of a racket. My local dealer quoted me $1100 for a centre diff for a Subaru but I bought a genuine one, new, online for $300 from outside this country.

Many of the parts used in luxury cars are the same parts used in "lesser" vehicles. There's a sensor used for inlet airflow monitoring in Subarus that costs $300 from a Subaru agent. The same sensor was used in Porsches of the same age and costs $1200. I managed to buy a couple of these sensors new, boxed for $120 each from a source who sells a wide range of parts at real prices. While there are many rip-off non genuine parts suppliers abounding on ebay and elsewhere online, if you're careful and check the details, it's often possible to pick up genuine spares for something closer to their real value.

It's pretty clear that the makers of expensive cars get away with selling parts at way more than they're actually worth because they can kid customers into thinking that their very special expensive car deserves the best. They would like you to think that the fact that the parts cost a heap must mean they're very special quality, when they're really just ordinary spare parts

ctviggen · « **Reply #111 on:** 8 Jun 2018, 09:53 am »

Quote from: jules on 8 Jun 2018, 01:03 am

Spare parts are something of a racket. My local dealer quoted me $1100 for a centre diff for a Subaru but I bought a genuine one, new, online for $300 from outside this country.

Many of the parts used in luxury cars are the same parts used in "lesser" vehicles. There's a sensor used for inlet airflow monitoring in Subarus that costs $300 from a Subaru agent. The same sensor was used in Porsches of the same age and costs $1200. I managed to buy a couple of these sensors new, boxed for $120 each from a source who sells a wide range of parts at real prices. While there are many rip-off non genuine parts suppliers abounding on ebay and elsewhere online, if you're careful and check the details, it's often possible to pick up genuine spares for something closer to their real value.

It's pretty clear that the makers of expensive cars get away with selling parts at way more than they're actually worth because they can kid customers into thinking that their very special expensive car deserves the best. They would like you to think that the fact that the parts cost a heap must mean they're very special quality, when they're really just ordinary spare parts

You have to watch these, though. For my Saab, the AC was an issue (who needs good AC in Sweden?

). The mechanic I had tried to use a knock-off, and could not install it. We had to buy the official one, which of course was way more expensive. But the mechanic could install it.

I used to all the work on my cars, even to installing new springs and wheel bearings on my Jeep (aka "Heep"). But now I don't have the time or capability to do this. Plus, even my Saab had a lot of room under the hood. Modern cars have zero room under there; it's difficult to change a freaking bulb let alone do maintenance.

mick wolfe · « **Reply #112 on:** 8 Jun 2018, 04:17 pm »

Quote from: RDavidson on 7 Jun 2018, 11:41 pm

Off topic, but Uber requires their "fleet" to be no older than a few years. Can't remember the exact number. That's why you don't see complete jalopies working for Uber or Lyft.

Yep. Have used Uber on many occasions and cars have always been fairly new and tidy. If you're lucky, you'll even get an entertaining driver.....not always though.

stlrman · « **Reply #113 on:** 8 Jun 2018, 06:55 pm »

In Pa. , Uber car must be 2010, which I think will take me to 2020.
I wanted a car that was fun to drive.

Does Prius make an all wheel drive? My BMW is AWD.
I need it in the very hilly Burg. Think San Francisco hilly.
I only drive in the summer mostly.

WGH · « **Reply #114 on:** 9 Jun 2018, 01:57 am »

stlrman - After driving the same vehicle for 40 years (77 Jeep Wagoneer) my friends think I should get a new car. I'm thinking the new 2019 Sabaru Crosstrek Hybrid (plug-in) would be perfect, looks like fun and it is AWD. I'm also looking for someone to buy one before me so I picked you.

syzygy · « **Reply #115 on:** 9 Jun 2018, 09:11 am »

Stir, in what part of town do you live? I have an excellent, very fair, mechanic who works on everything. I’ve had great work from them for 20+ years. They are in Blawnox.

ctviggen · « **Reply #116 on:** 9 Jun 2018, 12:50 pm »

Quote from: stlrman on 8 Jun 2018, 06:55 pm

In Pa. , Uber car must be 2010, which I think will take me to 2020.
I wanted a car that was fun to drive.

Does Prius make an all wheel drive? My BMW is AWD.
I need it in the very hilly Burg. Think San Francisco hilly.
I only drive in the summer mostly.

I was born in and lived in Pittsburgh. None of my family had AWD. I could see the desire for AWD in the winter, but if you drive mainly in the summer, I can't see the need.

Philistine · « **Reply #117 on:** 9 Jun 2018, 12:57 pm »

Quote from: sandbagger on 6 Jun 2018, 02:54 am

you should have just bought a Kia or Hyundia and been done with it ....

OP said he was looking for something that was fun to drive...so that excludes almost everything branded out of Asia and the US, and everything from Kia and Hyundai. Great value for money and reliability, but definitely not fun to drive. I had my first BMW in the 80's, and apart from a couple of Audi's haven't found a brand that I can afford that is as much fun to drive with a degree of comfort, I wish I could. The help he needs is to find a good mechanic that can help him out...

There are 3 good BMW mechanics in Pittsburgh that I know of: one in Cranberry, North Hills and Bloomfield area - I've given him the contact details for the North Hills mechanics. Once we get Stirman sorted he'll be back in love with his Beemer again.

The combination of hills and snow in Pittsburgh makes AWD a necessity, no way can you drive in winter without it. If we had less hills you could survive with snow tires and FWD/AWD but the snow/hill combo is a killer...My preference would be to have a RWD BMW and not use it on snow days.

Samac · « **Reply #118 on:** 9 Jun 2018, 03:39 pm »

For fun to drive, great value, reliable and good looking check out the '14 and newer Mazda6.

Cheers,

Scott

RDavidson · « **Reply #119 on:** 9 Jun 2018, 04:24 pm »

I've come to the general conclusion that if you truly want a fun car, don't use it as your daily driver. Get an old, cheap, beater Subaru to get you thru winter and eaten by road salt. For summer, get a RWD fun car.