[Danberg]

I am in the process of using Dynamat to dampen the metal chassis of my CD player (Rotel CD975).  While I had the chassis apart, I thought I'd go ahead and add some to the "blank spaces" (areas where no components are located) on the top and bottom of the circuit board.  Additionally I  placed along the perimeter of the board.  You know, if a small amount is good, then a lot must be significantly better!  

In addition, I added globs of the black gooey Dynamat stuff on top of all of the capacitors (the ones that are shaped like "cans".   Then I got to thinking, do capacitors heat up in use?  If so, will this cause them to overheat and prematurely break down?  Before I close up the chassis, should I remove all those globs from the tops of the capacitors?  Will the Dynamat actually dampen the capacitors?  Will it improve the sonics of the player?

[bubba966]

I've not had any problems using insane amounts of Dynamat Xtreme on the inside of my computer case. I checked the case & chip temps before, and after. And it didn't change them a bit.

But the Xtreme has a layer of Aluminum on top, and I'm sure that helps heat dissipation. But the other grades of Dynamat (Original, TacMat, etc.) don't have the Aluminum top layer. So I'd take a guess that they might make/keep things a slight bit warmer.

If you applied the Xtreme to your CDP, and none of it was shorting anything out, then I'm sure you're fine.

If you applied Original, or one of the other grades of Dynamat, I'd run it with the top off for a bit and then check the temps on the caps. If they're too toasty to touch, you might want to take the Dynamat off.

That stuff is a bitch to take off. I'd be worried about damaging the caps while trying to remove it. So I wouldn't take it off unless you noticed it heating the caps up so bad that the solder joints are going to pop or the cap would prematurely fail.

[zybar]

I have used Dynamat X-treme in various components and have not seen any heat or interfearence issues from the aluminum.

When I treated a component, I didn't apply it directly to the caps or other electrical parts.  Instead I put it on the chassis, lid, underside, etc...

As Bubbas pointed out, if you don't notice any issues, I wouldn't worry.

George

[JoshK]

I actually had an issue with apply dynamat to the inside of my CD player.  I only applied it to the chassis but I put it all over the place.  Anyway, the problem was when I played the system loudly I could hear crackling in the sound.  This I didn't notice before and am positive it wasn't there before.  

So I just started peeling off the aluminum part of the dynamat on places where the dynamat was somewhat close to the circuit, mostly on the lid, but leaving the sticky black compound on.  This solved the problem.  So I think you really can't hurt anything by giving it a try and testing it out. It is reversable although it is a bit more work to take off then put on.

[zybar]

I actually had an issue with apply dynamat to the inside of my CD player.  I only applied it to the chassis but I put it all over the place.  Anyway, the problem was when I played the system loudly I could hear crackling in the sound.  This I didn't notice before and am positive it wasn't there before.  

So I just started peeling off the aluminum part of the dynamat on places where the dynamat was somewhat close to the circuit, mostly on the lid, but leaving the sticky black compound on.  This solved the ...

Interesting Josh...

I play my system at very high levels and never experienced that.  Of course it could simply be that we applied it to different locations.  I have used it in preamps, cd players, and dvd players with no adverse effects - only positive ones.

George

[JoshK]

I think my problem had to do with static build up and discharge inside the player.  This is just a theory but I think the aluminum may have had something to do with causing the static build up.

[dado5]

Danberg,

Caps are the most heat sensitve of passive devices. Their values can drift with only moderate raises in temperature above mnfr. specs.  The fact that the Dynamat compound is black means that it will absorb heat and this MAY cause the temp of the caps to raise depending on how close they are to heat generating components.  Of course this is also true of the whole case as I assume you have put the stuff on the inside of the cover.  This MAY serve to inuslate the case and raise the internal temperature of the entire device. On the other hand black material, if placed properly, can aid in the heat transfer process and therefore improve device cooling (yes the black paint on the outside of a piece of gear may actually be a designed part to aid in cooling).

IMO, since few, if any,  of the design parameters for cooling are known to us as consumers, it is best not to go overboard with damping that may interfere with heat removal.

I supose that a capacitor could be microphonic, in the sense that vibrations may affect the physical relationship between the plates and the insulating material, but I don't see this being a large effect, considering the tolerance range on most electrolytic (can type) capacitors is already 20% or worse. I would be  more concerned about temperature, as this WILL play heck with capacitor performance when it gets too high, to the point of a messy and potentially dangerous catostrophic failure.

Thanks,
Rob

[eico1]

esr will go up with temp and lifespan will go down, so best to keep it cool..

steve

[Bill Baker]

Have you considered just applying a piece to the top of the capacitor? This would help damp the capacitor while not holding heat in.
 I have had good results in the past by removing the plastic covering from electrolytics and applying a round (size of the cap) piece of damping material to the top of the cap.
 Just another option