[JohnR]

Close-up shots of a fifty-dollar note using a lens I purchased on eBay for forty dollars:








First off, the point is not that these are particularly good. They aren't. This is the starting point, for reference, so I can see how much I can improve with this new macro setup (the bellows). I'm starting with a flat subject before progressing to stacking. The lens is a Nikon 35-70mm Ai-s f/3.5-4.8 reverse-mounted on a PB-4 bellows. The distance across the frame is about 30, 6, and maybe 3mm, so magnifications are 1:2, 4:1, and 8:1. (Fuji X-M1 camera) Pushing this lens to high magnification is pointless, although up to 2:1 is probably OK.

Other than resizing, these are straight OOC JPEGs. This is a 1:1 crop of the first image:



BTW I read about the lens here: http://coinimaging.com/nikon_35-70r.html - he doesn't use a bellows, just reverse mounts it. I don't have a focusing rail though (other than the bellows).

[JohnR]

Another attempt, this time with a lens that I actually did get for exactly 50 dollars (including postage), a Schneider Componon-S 50mm enlarger lens. Reverse-mounted on the bellows, minimum magnification is about 1.5:1 -




Maximum magnification is a bit less than 4:1 -



Here's how I measured the magnification (this is a steel ruler, markings are 1mm apart) -



1:1 crop of the center of the ruler image:




It's pretty hard to work at these magnifications....! I discovered today that just stepping away from the tripod changed the framing and focus! Suspended wooden floor.

[Guy 13]

Hi JohnR.
At those magnifications everything is critical.
Focusing, exposure and especially depth of field.
You are working with a 2 dimensional subject, therefore depth of field
is not too important.
When I was a distributor for Jobo dark room products (Germany)
I sold Schneider and Rodenstock enlarging lenses
and I did try them as close up lenses on my camera.
Very sharp lenses.
What will be your next project or experimentation?
Small products? Flowers? Insects?

Guy 13

[FullRangeMan]

What are the lens ?
I use the kit 18-55 lens and cant do this kind of closeups.

[Guy 13]

What are the lens ?
I use the kit 18-55 lens and cant do this kind of closeups.

Hi FullRangeMan.
There are several ways to do macro photography.
First:
With your 18-55mm lens you can get as close as your autofocus permit and then re-crop/re-frame the picture to have an effect of close-up.
Second:
You can buy a close up lens, there are different magnification, you camera store can help you choose the right one for your requirement.
Third:
You can buy a lens reverse adapter, but you lens will be subject to dust infiltration, because you cannot screw on a protecting filter.
Fourth:
You can buy a macro lens, new or used. I recommend a 60 to 105mm.
Fifth:
You can buy a bellow, which is more or less an accordion, which can extend or contracted to suit the required magnification.
The lens attach to the front of the bellow and the back to your camera body.
The 1st, 2nd and 3rd are quite inexpensive.
The 4th and 5th are quite expensive.
For what I guess you will be doing, I would recommend that you buy a close-up lens which can cost less than 100 USD new and even less used.
With my medium format professional camera (Mamiya 645E) I have a 120mm macro lens, but with my Nikon D200 and it's 17-55mm zoom lens, I use the close-up lens, which is more or less like a filter that you screw-up in front of the lens.
If you go with that option, I recommend that when doing macro work,
you remove the UV filter (If you have one, if you don't I strongly recommend that you buy one UV type, just in case something end up on the front element of your zoom lens) so that the close up lens is as close as possible to to front of your zoom lens.
Go on Google and type: Macro lens, close-up lens, bellow.
I would not recommend (At least for you) an enlarging lens with a bellow for your camera, because I know it's now t within your budget and also you will loos the autofocus feature of your  camera.
I hope this help, if not, feel free to send me  PM.

Guy 13
   
 

[FullRangeMan]

This is not much, about 15cm only, the autofocus keep retry,
cant make the adjusment.
15cm are a useless to me.

[JohnR]

What are the lens ?
I use the kit 18-55 lens and cant do this kind of closeups.

Hi Gustavo, lots of GREAT advice from Guy 13 there. I am working with a specialized setup, just learning about it now and how to use it properly. It is Guy 13 option #5, the bellows with attached lens.

For your Nikon 18-55 you should be able to get to nearly 1:3 magnification. That means that a subject 3 times the size of the sensor will fill the frame. The sensor on your camera (and mine) is 16x24mm, so 48x72mm should nearly fill the frame. This is very good for a kit lens. If you are not getting that, then I think this might be at the max zoom (55mm) so pse check that.

For macro, autofocus is a problem. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. Try manual focus? I always use manual focus for macro.

If you need to get closer and have the budget for it, I would recommend the Nikon 60mm AF-s lens (Guy 13 option #4), I always enjoyed that lens, it reaches to 1:1 magnification and produces lovely images. I just sold mine as I have switched camera systems.

[JohnR]

What will be your next project or experimentation?
Small products? Flowers? Insects?

Hi Guy, thanks for your comments, once I have the setup worked out (nearly there!) I think small flowers will be next.



Then maybe some shells?



These were from years ago, it is a whole new approach now, I am starting again.

[Guy 13]

Hi JohnR.
Nice pictures.
I love pictures of flower over small animals and insects,
because flowers are static, they don't move, well,
if there is no wind, which is not always the case.
At one time I had a Cambo 4X5" view camera with film sheet
(At that time no digital) and the movements of the view camera
(Rise-Fall-Swing-Tilt) was really a super feature to increase depth of field
and correct perspective) but I had to keep into account
the lost of light due to bellow extension.
Too bad I sold it, (Don't know why) anyway, today, here on planet Vietnam, it's almost impossible to buy 4X5" sheet films and to get them processed.
Anyway, good souvenirs.
Waiting for your next batch of close-up pictures.
Thanks.

Guy 13

[JohnR]

Hi guy, I am trying to figure out how to modify a Linhof 4x5 to take my (teeny weeny) Fuji "back". More on that if and when it happens. I don't think it's hard, for someone with a proper workshop <- not me.

[Guy 13]

Hi guy, I am trying to figure out how to modify a Linhof 4x5 to take my (teeny weeny) Fuji "back". More on that if and when it happens. I don't think it's hard, for someone with a proper workshop <- not me.

Hi JohnR.
Wow a Linhof, the Mercedes of view cameras.
I had two view camera, the first one was a Cambo, but that was more than 35 years ago, therefore I don`t remember the model.
The second one, which I owned about 10 years ago was the Cambo Explorer as per the picture below.
Of course my Cambo Explorer is no match to your Linhof,
except for the price.
I also did some modifications so the rail could be split in two and when the bellow was collapsed, it was almost as portable as a field camera.

Guy 13

[FullRangeMan]

Hi FullRangeMan.
There are several ways to do macro photography.
First:
With your 18-55mm lens you can get as close as your autofocus permit and then re-crop/re-frame the picture to have an effect of close-up.
Second:
You can buy a close up lens, there are different magnification, you camera store can help you choose the right one for your requirement.
Third:
You can buy a lens reverse adapter, but you lens will be subject to dust infiltration, because you cannot screw on a protecting filter.
Fourth:
You can buy a macro lens, new or used. I recommend a 60 to 105mm.
Fifth:
You can buy a bellow, which is more or less an accordion, which can extend or contracted to suit the required magnification.
The lens attach to the front of the bellow and the back to your camera body.
The 1st, 2nd and 3rd are quite inexpensive.
The 4th and 5th are quite expensive.
For what I guess you will be doing, I would recommend that you buy a close-up lens which can cost less than 100 USD new and even less used.
With my medium format professional camera (Mamiya 645E) I have a 120mm macro lens, but with my Nikon D200 and it's 17-55mm zoom lens, I use the close-up lens, which is more or less like a filter that you screw-up in front of the lens.
If you go with that option, I recommend that when doing macro work,
you remove the UV filter (If you have one, if you don't I strongly recommend that you buy one UV type, just in case something end up on the front element of your zoom lens) so that the close up lens is as close as possible to to front of your zoom lens.
Go on Google and type: Macro lens, close-up lens, bellow.
I would not recommend (At least for you) an enlarging lens with a bellow for your camera, because I know it's now t within your budget and also you will loos the autofocus feature of your  camera.
I hope this help, if not, feel free to send me  PM.

Guy 13
 

Thanks Guy for your suggestions.
Iam able do some more near closeups in the manual mode.
Some times the photo gets full black, sometimes its works.

[Guy 13]

Thanks Guy for your suggestions.
Iam able do some more near closeups in the manual mode.
Some times the photo gets full black, sometimes its works.

Hi FullRangeMan.
When you say manual mode,
do you mean manual auto focus or manual exposure?
On manual focus the image might be blur,
but not under expose to the point of being completely black.
If you go manual exposure,
you need either an external light meter
or the built-in exposure meter to tell you at the speed
and aperture you should set your camera setting.
Try to use A setting (Aperture priority set at F11)
and the camera will choose and set the correct speed.
Use manual focus and focus on the foreground to make the
picture sharp.
Post some pictures, even if they are not good
(Avoiding of course the completely black ones )
so we can try to help you further more.
Try to shoot a 3D object like a tube, a computer's mouse, a mug, etc...

Guy 13   

[FullRangeMan]

I dont know this detail.
I put the round MASP swith in the M position and was able to get a more close image adjusting the lens zoom control.

[Guy 13]

I dont know this detail.
I put the round MASP swith in the M position and was able to get a more close image adjusting the lens zoom control.

Hi FullRangeMan.
If you put your camera on " M " manual mode,
you need to set the speed and aperture manually.
Those setting will vary according to setting of the zoom (F/3.5 - 5.6 ???)
aperture will vary accoring to the zoom length, the aperture setting of your lens. As a start should be set at F/8 and the speed depending on the anmount of light on the subject and of course the ISO (Sensivitry of the sensor) setting, as a start try 400 ISO.
I recommend to start on all auto except for the focus that should be on manual for ease of focussing, especially if you are trying to magnify a lot.
Try and get back to me/us.
Give us more details on your set up.
All the setting F stop, speed, iso, distance, what kind of light, inside/outside???
If you want us to help you, you have to help us with some info.
Thanks.

Guy 13
I am/we are ready to help as much as I/we can, but right now,
I am/we are a little in the dark.

[Guy 13]

I dont know this detail.
I put the round MASP swith in the M position and was able to get a more close image adjusting the lens zoom control.

Hi FullRangeMan.
Here are a few picture that I took with my Nikon D200
with a Nikon 17-55mm zoom lens.
All the pictures were taken with the zoom at 55mm
(The longest extension)
and at as close as my focusing permit.
You can re-frame your picture to make it look closer.
Some of the pictures were taken on autofocus,
some on manual focus, some with the built in flash,
some with an external flash and some with the sun from a window.
If you need additional lighting, use this type of fluorescent  bulb
and put behind a sheet of cooking aluminium foil to concentrate
the light on the subject.
For macro, no need to spend a fortune to get good results.
At first to practice, use the autofocus and if the camera cannot focus,
use manual focus.
Put the camera on P auto mode and the iso on 400.
Start slowly like that and since each time a picture does not come out good, you simply delete it and you have not lost $$$.
Good luck.

Guy 13