[this_is_vv]

Not getting any exercise i thought to get this into my life....couple of questions...what bike to buy...also it seems my office have shower so what clothes to buy ....also i am planning to be under 1000$....any idea ...i don't mind used bikes either...

i am planning to get endurance bike mostly....

any suggestions for first time biker....

V

[this_is_vv]

Bump

[WireNut]

I wish I had the energy to do what your doing, Good for you 

[mresseguie]

Hello, vv.

Take a look at REI CO-OP. There's a big bicycle sale right now. Bikes are something like 25% off right now.

Here's a really general breakdown of bicycle pricing:

<$600 [retail] not worth considering (too heavy, inferior parts)
$600 to $800...decent entry level bikes, better components, lighter, more fun to ride.
$1000 to $1200 Good bikes, good quality components, better braking and shifting systems, better reliability, light weight, a pleasure to ride
$2000 Now we're talking! Really light, thinner wheels/tires, much stiffer frames = more energy goes to tires, a pleasure to ride all day, you'll look forward to hopping on this puppy, buy a REALLY good locking system
$4000 and up.....SWEET!

It's kind of like high-end audio speakers: (generally speaking) $600 won't get you very good sound. $1000 gets you pretty nice monitors, $2000 gets you awesome sounding monitors/great sounding floorstanders, $4000 and up gets you speakers for life. [Easy, easy. You audiophiles know I'm making generalizations here. Have an ale....chill...]

vv,

I'm in the market for either a good quality used bike or a new bike on sale. I'm willing to spend approximately $1200 on a new bike because I know it'll have the components and light weight that will keep me happy. If I can find a new 2013 model, I'll jump on it because it'll be heavily discounted even though it's excellent quality. I also know I do not need a $2000 bicycle because I'm not so serious about cycling now.

I hope this helps you. If you can't go to REI, try a local shop. My local shop is holding its end-of-season sale this weekend.

Best of luck!

Michael

[charmerci]

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[charmerci]

oops! Triple post! I don't know what went wrong - I'm getting old....

[charmerci]

Quote from: mresseguie on Today at 07:44 am

<$600

[retail] not worth considering (too heavy, inferior parts)




 

Wimp! I ride this 20 year old thing to work and I'd whip your a....! Fast is the rider not the bike! (I'm over 50 so age isn't the thing here too.) 

[viggen]

http://www.rei.com/product/866481/raleigh-sojourn-bike-2014

[Doublej]

For commuting, I'd get a bike with:

a rack so you can add panniers for your work clothes,
fenders (as desired. not sure you need them in southern California),
puncture proof tires unless you feel like changing flats on the way too/from work
disc brakes (good for stopping in the rain I am told, but you don't get much of that)
front suspension fork is optional

There is a type of bike called a commuter bike that is something to look at. I'd also look at dual sport bikes. Fit is key so go to a good bike shop that has a variety of brands to test ride. REI is a good place as well as you LBS (Local Bike Shop).

There are dozens of brands. Some of the bigger names are Giant, Trek, Specialized, Cannondale.

If you plan to ride at night, good lights, and/or reflectors, reflective tape are a must. So is a helmet!

Hope this helps.

[LadyDog]

VW,
Like speakers, and life in general, everybody is their own movie critic.  So my take.

I'll not go as far to say a $600 is a bad bike.  Heck, anything that gets you on the road is an excellent bike.  And last time I checked, it was more of the engine that makes the bike go, versus the bike itself.  Probably goes without saying, that in most cases a $2,000 bike is better than a $1,200 bike.  Along with a $1,200 bike having nicer parts than a $600 bike.

While I'm all for supporting the local biking community, I'd also look at used.  Just like speakers, you'll knock a good chunk of change off by buying used.

I'll somewhat mirror DoubleJ(good advice);

*  a rack - for clothes, work items, etc
*  bike with fender outlets, at a minimum.....if you do not use and/or need, no biggie.....but if riding in poor weather, they will come in handy
*  disc brakes....again only really necessary if riding in inclement weather
*  won't necessarily say punture proof tires(thou again good advice).....at a minimum though, I would spend some extra money on very nice durable tires.....nothing will be worse than trying to change a flat, in the dark, when it is raining, on the way to "work"
*  helmet
*  lights - both front and back, maybe even a helmet light too
*  fit is king - if the bike does not fit, do not buy it

Good luck and keep us posted on the outcome.

[rooze]

Don't be drawn into spending more than you're comfortable with on parts/performance that you'll probably never use. The higher-end bikes are like higher-end audio cables, few will actually reap any real benefit.

Five years ago I bought my wife a Schwinn mountain bike. It was on sale at K-Mart for $129. She rode it once and that was it. When my older Trek needed money spending on it that I didn't want to spend, I put it in storage and started using my wife's Scwhinn. Heck, I'm not proud - riding a woman's bike is fine with me, even though it was a bit too small.
I thrashed that bike within and inch of its miserable life  I put a lot of miles on it on the road, hit a few trails etc. I rode it for 3 years during the Summer months and during winter it sat outside under a pile of snow for 3 months (I live in WI). In the Spring I'd give the cables and chain a squirt of 3-in-1, blow up the tires and take off again.
In 3 years of riding that thing I never had a flat, never changed a tire (they're a bit bald but fine  ), never adjusted the gears, never even changed a brake pad. The only money I spent on it was for a new seat.

In June this year I bought a new GT Timberline 29er from a local bike shop. It was almost 4 times what we paid for the Schwinn. It's a piece of garbage. I can't get the gears to shift smooth, the chain falls off all the time, the tires are bald after 2 months, the brakes have faded to nothing, the front wheel looks like it's buckled (from new) and even though I keep it indoors when not in use, various bolts are going rusty.

Before I bought the GT I was talking with the salesman and mentioned I'd been riding my wife's Schwinn for 3 years and that it seemed like it was well-made. When I told him where I'd bought it and what I'd paid he laughed at me with a mocking tone and claimed there was just no comparison to be made between a $130 bike and a new GT Timberline. I now know exactly what he meant.

Buy a comfortable bike. Have it 'fitted' - the bike shop should help you select the right wheel/frame size then setup the seat for you to match your size/height. Those are things worth paying a little extra for, but don't be misled into thinking that you need to spend $1000 on a basic commuter bike. Unless of course you're someone who worries more about style and image and just wants to look cool pulling into the parking lot. 

Personally I'd buy a mountain bike for commuting. They're heavier and harder to peddle, but 9 miles is a short distance and with an MTB you'll not have to worry as much about getting a flat and being late for the office. The riding position is more upright than on your typical road/racer bike and it gives you a better peripheral awareness of traffic and what's going on around you. I'd recommend you buy a rear-view handlebar mirror, which is a safety-essential in my humble opinion.
Waterproof clothing can be purchased which will fold away into a small pouch which you can carry and use when you need it.

[mresseguie]

Quote from: mresseguie on Today at 07:44 am

<$600

[retail] not worth considering (too heavy, inferior parts)

 

Wimp! I ride this 20 year old thing to work and I'd whip your a....! Fast is the rider not the bike! (I'm over 50 so age isn't the thing here too.) 

LOL! I figured my post would get a rise outta someone. [and get some folks to help vv] Lately, my riding legs are a wee bit soft, but I hope to change that before too long. Back in the day, I was a 365 day/yr rider in Minnesota. Knobbies were my buddies back then.

Oh, and that triple posting is a clever tactic. I've thought about double posting just to get my post count up--especially now that I'm pushing 300! Wooo hoo.   
Ride on, Charlie! 

[jschwenker]

I biked to work for ~90 pct of 35 year career.  Averaging ~10 mile round trip.  GREAT baseline for staying in shape.  I never bothered to go fast or be super athletic about it but now have resting heart rate below my age.  (58)  Here in CO we have weather that is maybe similar to SoCal, in terms of dryness & sunshine tho quite a bit cooler in the winter.  Had quite a few very adventurous days with the snows of course. 

Not biking too terribly far or hard - and down-hillish on the way in - I could arrive at work w/o needing a shower.  Would frequently change to shorts for ride home.  Others I knew might shower at work or just make do with a change of clothes and a dab of cologne...

Like others above I recommend keeping your bike choice relatively simple and comfortable.  My favorite ride for this use was a modern produced "cruiser" style bike.  Aluminum frame (somewhat lighter weight) seven speed internal gear hub (easy shifting, good weather resistance, long lasting) hub based brakes (perform nice and uniformly in all weathers) good multi-use tires (either Serfas Drifter or Continental Town and Country) thorn-resistant tubes PLUS plastic tread liners (they roll a tad stiffer but even in thorn country I'd get one flat maybe every 10 years or more - in other words I DO NOT believe in having flats...)  I added wire baskets, since many times I'd tack on shopping errands on the way home.  And, of course (as I would tease folks that had a dirt stripe up their backs) all real bikes have fenders!

For the long run, make sure you are very comfortable.  Figure on doing some experimenting with finding a good, as wide as it really needs to be, seat.  Handlebars that allow for a more upright and relaxed posture will prevent long term problems with back, neck, wrists and hands.

Take it easy and enjoy the ride!
John

[chip]

Make sure you test ride any bike to make sure you feel comfortable on it.

I went from an old mt bike to a hybrid bike last november. Here is my post - http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=118099.0

I really like this bike and got a good deal on it. I felt no need for disk brakes so opted for the elite model. Maybe down the line if I start putting more miles on per week I will upgrade to a different bike but for now this one works for me.

I have front/back lights, bike lock, quad lock mount for phone, clip shoes/pedals.

I bike to work occasionaly and usually just cool down and then change when I do.

I looked alot for used bikes but they were never in my size so just bought last years model at a good price.

[this_is_vv]

WOW...so many great advises....so i ahve been talking to couple of fellow people around my office here are some points and some bikes we have narrowed...

•   Carbon or aluminium light.
•   Shockers.
•   Straight up pose for relaxed ride
•   If disc brake.
•   Middle width tire .
•       Shimano derailleur gears possible.

some sample hyrbid bike i found are...

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/hybrid-bikes/jubilee-8-speed-nexus.htm 

obviously change the tires to a little leaner one....

[JEaton]

WOW...so many great advises....so i ahve been talking to couple of fellow people around my office here are some points and some bikes we have narrowed...

•   Carbon or aluminium light.

My advice would be completely the opposite. It's unlikely you can get a bike with carbon frame for under $1000. And I'd stay away from an aluminum frame. If at all possible, a steel frame would be my choice. Perhaps steel with a carbon fork. Steel is more flexible than aluminum, thus a more comfortable ride and easier on your butt. If, after riding for a while, you want to sink the money into a bike with a carbon frame, then by all means, do so.

•   Shockers.

Shocks? No. Not on a road bike for 18 miles of commuting each day. Not unless you'll be riding a trail through the woods to work and back.

•   Straight up pose for relaxed ride

No. Absolutely not "straight up". Not unless you're 70 years old, or you're 100 lbs overweight. A riding stance like that suggests a bike more suited for riding 2 miles on a paved bike path to the ice cream shop.

You want a road bike. You don't want a bike with a tight, twitchy geometry where you'll be laid out flat like you're riding the Tour de France, but you want something efficient. Typically, a good choice for a long-distance commuting bike will be a touring bike, fitted with a rack and possibly fenders. On a properly fitted touring bike, your riding stance will be somewhat upright, and it can be adjusted by the length of the handlebar stem or the steering tube.

•   If disc brake.

Don't know what that means. You don't really need disc brakes unless you encounter a lot of wet weather, which seems unlikely if you're in southern California.

•   Middle width tire .

Yes. You don't want the thinnest tire possible, but thinner is more efficient, so will be faster. It's a compromise between efficiency (speed) and comfort. A wider, lower pressure tire absorbs more bumps, but at the expense of requiring more work to get you to your destination. A good compromise would likely be something 28 to 32mm in width.

•       Shimano derailleur gears possible.

Brand isn't that important. Shimano makes many different product lines at many different price points, so just saying "Shimano" is meaningless. However, you will likely want a bike with a derailleur and the many gear ratios that it offers, but don't get hung up on the brand.

some sample hyrbid bike i found are...

http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/hybrid-bikes/jubilee-8-speed-nexus.htm 

obviously change the tires to a little leaner one....

IMO, you don't want a hybrid unless you also plan on doing some trail riding. You might find this bike to be comfortable, but I think you'd quickly outgrow it doing 18 miles every day.

[Doublej]

I'll be a bit contrarian here. While it's definitely ultra cool to have a 2 ounce carbon fiber bike with 3mm tires and effortlessly zip to work, a heavier bike will give you a better workout.

I'd look at fatties. On the weekends you can drop the pressure in the tires and ride on the beach if it's allowed. How cool is that!

[undertow]

Lets back up a little bit... 9 miles each direction?

So I went thru about 20 of the best bikes made from Giant, Cannondale, Trek etc...

First off everybody normally is under the impression Cannondales should be lighter in general. Their Road bikes can be about 22 lbs, but more like 25... Their Dual sports or HYbrids are actually about 30 lbs.

I made the bike shops weigh every model right in front of me. In general the TREKs were mostly lighter every time by 2 or 3 lbs!

A 600 dollar bike will be at best a 9 speed and not very smooth derailers. Top of the Line Shimano or SRAM gears are much better, but you pay for them.

The bikes that will generally come in 10 speed and have more like "Road Bike" speed,weight, and smoothness are over 1000.00 normally in cost.

Don't buy USED unless you have guaranteed the FRAME size will work for you.

Also, I highly suggest to get from Point A to point B faster get a bike with 700 cc sized wheels like a Road bike, many Dual Sports will come with these, but some can come with 26" mountain bike tires which are smaller, and slower with worse ride in my opinion.

In photos here solid Fork is mostly what a road bike will have and you get the Low wrap handlebars you need to lean into for the brakes vs. the Dual sport that allows you to sit up if you want to.

[mresseguie]

Undertow,

I like your reasoning. You've stated it much better than I did. 

[JEaton]

For my money, this bike could be the perfect commuter. Assuming the frame size fit (this is a larger bike, for someone over 6ft), riding position can be adjusted by changing the stem length and/or angle. The steel Soma Smoothie ES frame is specifically built for versatility. The long-reach brakes allow you to fit fenders, if you like, and both the rear dropouts and the fork have eyelets for fenders and a rear rack. The only thing you'd probably want to change for certain are the tires.

For riding 18 miles per day I'd recommend drop bars, which give you at least three different hand positions, so you can switch it up and avoid fatigue. This particular bike has 'compact' or short drops, which give you a less extreme position when you're riding in the drop position.



http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/bik/4600396139.html

Here's that same model of bike outfitted in more obvious commuter attire, with fenders, rear rack, lights and beefier tires. (This one also has a carbon fiber fork):