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In my opinion, the definition of Class A has gotten a little squishy through the years. In my book only devices that are constantly biased exactly halfway between cutoff and saturation (or the equivalent in valves) can be considered Class "A".Anything that runs...."Class A for the first few watts and then switches to A/B" (or similar quasi-biasing techniques) are not true Class A.That definition cuts down the selection of power amps considerably. I'm a dinosaur. Dave.
Your book? I see what you're saying, BUT it is obviously possible to design true Class A amps that switch to A/B. I mean, what you're saying kind of flies in the face of the guy who practically wrote THE actual book on Class A solid state design and continues to pioneer the art (Nelson Pass), if you don't believe his Pass Labs amps are true Class A as spec'd, before switching to A/B. I guess what I'm saying is just because an amp doesn't stay in high bias Class A only, doesn't mean it is wrong or is a less "true" amp. However, and I agree with what I think you're getting at, that not all Class A amps are built the same or meet the same "true" Class A spec.....ie the "squishy" Class A amps. I'm not going to toss any names out there.
Not to take anything away from Nelson as he's certainly done some terrific contemporary work on Class A amp design in the consumer audio field. However, Class A solid state design has been around for a bit longer than him. It dates all the way back into the late 40's with the development of the first semiconductor transistors.
No book, sorry. Not to take anything away from Nelson as he's certainly done some terrific contemporary work on Class A amp design in the consumer audio field. However, Class A solid state design has been around for a bit longer than him. It dates all the way back into the late 40's with the development of the first semiconductor transistors.I appreciate your comments and don't disagree. I think maybe it's more of a semantical (is that a word?) definition between "True Class A" and "Class A" ??Anyways, these "quasi" biasing techniques probably do fit in the definition of the OP's original query and satisfy the "spirit" of his question/requirement.I don't know why you don't want to toss any names out there. Dave.
I think class A amps are fine, but don't buy more watts than you need. Nelson makes many of his class A amps 10 watts which is enough for most listeners. At 10 watts the numbers are much more reasonable. May I digress here and say that Nelson is one of the most reasonable and talented designers in this industry and I always enjoy speaking with him. Lately were discussing amp camp, Burning Amp (which is sadly cancelled for this year) and my proposition to open an audio school. http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=125987.0. He and I are all for educating the audio enthusiast and cutting through the bullshit in this industry. I recall Paul Klipsch distributed yellow buttons at the shows that simply said, in old English lettering BULLSHIT Sadly there seems to be more and more of it out there. Now back to the topic: From the above example we see that we simply multiply the output power by 5 to get the idle dissipation. With Nelsons 10 watts that is only 50 watts which is, you might say is rather green. It is pure foolishness to own a 100 watt amp and use it at 1 % of its power. it is downright absurd to own a 1000 watt amplifier unless you are in the live sound concert business or own a terribly inefficient speaker that you want to play at 120 dB. Emotiva has a new 1000 watt monoblock advertised in Stereophile. Their motto is "rethinking high-end" It appears they are not thinking about audio but perhaps cashing in on the more power the better fad. Someone, I don't know who, has started a tread that says "a bigger amp controls a speaker better and the bigger the better" This is simply not true. High available current and damping control a speaker.If you don't know how much power you are using find out! Don't guess. Most digital votmeters have a peak reading fucntion, some even beep each time you hit a new peak. How about spending $50 on a volt meter before you spend thousands on an amp that is much bigger than you need. Just hook that meter across your speaker terminals and be ready for a big surprise. If you have speakers that are 90 dB and you listen at 90 dB peak you will see a peak of about 4 volts. A few volts is what I usually see. Of course if you listen at 110 dB you will need a 100 watt amp and start saving for a hearing aid. Recently I visited someone who was playing 100 dB peaks. I had to leave the room. I have a SPL meter application on my iPhone that shows peak and average levels. If you have any smart phone SPL meters are free and you have no excuse not knowing your listening level.