[wilsynet]

If the Tortuga uses the Apple Remote, and I have an Apple TV which also uses the Apple Remote, is there a way to differentiate which remote controls which device?

I believe there's a way to pair an Apple Remote to a specific Apple TV, but I'm not sure how that works and if that means the Tortuga would then co-exist peacefully with an Apple TV.  I could figure this out, but maybe someone here already knows the answer.

[srb]

I would think that if you paired an Apple remote with a specific Apple TV and did nothing to the remote that operates your Tortuga, they would peacefully co-exist.

Apple TV: Pairing and unpairing the Apple Remote

Steve

[wilsynet]

According to the technical section here:

http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Apple_Remote

The Apple Remote sends an 8-bit remote code, 0-255 to go along with the commands that it sends.  This helps devices distinguish one remote from another.  And when you pair, I would assume the device learns which remote to pay attention to.  Unpaired devices simply don't distinguish one remote code from another.

If the Tortuga simply ignores the remote code, then I would guess that pairing an Apple Remote with my Apple TV will help the Apple TV ignore the Tortuga's Remote, but it won't help the Tortuga ignore the Apple TV Remote.  Unless of course the Tortuga also knows how to pair.

Does anyone have any experience with this or know if Tortuga supports pairing?

Wilson

[tortugaranger]

Does anyone have any experience with this or know if Tortuga supports pairing?

It does.

Let's say the Apple Remote you're using to control your Tortuga Audio preamp conflicts with some other device.

It's a 2 step process to change the ID of the Apple Remote and teach the Tortuga Audio preamp the new ID. 

Step 1:  Press and hold both the Menu and Center button of the Apple Remote for more than 5 seconds and then release. This should increment the Apple Remote ID number by 1. There are 256 possible IDs. You can test if the ID changed by trying it on the Tortuga Audio preamp. It shouldn't work. If it still does work (i.e. the preamp responds) then the ID didn't change so repeat Step 1.

Step 2: Press and hold in the Tortuga Audio preamp's Encoder push button (or ground the input J2-ES) for more than 20 seconds and then release. This switches the Tortuga Audio preamp into IR Code Learn Mode. The Status LED and/or Display Module will blink rapidly. Point the Apple Remote at the Tortuga Audio preamp and press any button. The blinking will stop. Done!  The Tortuga Audio preamp should now respond to the Apple Remote with the new ID. 

Here's some additional info on the Apple Remote and changing its ID:  http://www.filewell.com/iRedLite/downloads/iRL-AppleRemoteIDs.pdf

[wilsynet]

Terrific, thank you.

[wilsynet]

The encoder is the button on the preamp which is also used for volume control, right?

I hold it down for 20 seconds (and as long as 40 seconds) and let go, and it does not enter into a rapid blinking mode.

Wilson

[tortugaranger]

The encoder is the button on the preamp which is also used for volume control, right?
I hold it down for 20 seconds (and as long as 40 seconds) and let go, and it does not enter into a rapid blinking mode.
Wilson

Hi Wilson,

I just reread the info in this thread and also did a careful review of the software code that governs the setting of a new IR ID code in your LDR3. Here's what should be happening step by step plus some clarification on the blinking.

Step 1 - First, the unit must be turned on. This won't work if the unit isn't first turned on.

Step 2 -  Press/hold the Encoder (volume control) button in for at least 20 seconds and then release. It's important to NOT also rotate the encoder while holding it pressed in. I realize this can feel a bit awkward if not annoying for 20+ seconds but this was designed to be a VERY deliberate process that couldn't happen accidentally.

*  As a result of step 2, an internal flag is set that tells the unit that the very next input from an IR remote will be legitimate and to assume that the ID code associated with the next IR command is now the new ID code for all subsequent IR input and to store that new ID code and use it going forward. Thus, if you've incremented the ID code of your Apple Remote, it will "learn" that new ID code.

*  Further as a result of step 2), the unit should go into Mute mode which should result in slow blinking of the Status LED just like it does when normally muted. Contrary to my earlier guidance it will not go into "rapid blinking" but it should blink slowly because it's muted. Somehow the rapid blinking code has been purged from the version of the software in your unit.

Step 3 - Press any button  on the remote. This teaches the unit the new IR ID code.

* At this point the unit has the IR ID code but is still in the "learn" mode, the flag is still set and it has yet to save the new ID to permanent memory.

Step 4 - Press the Enter button to lock in and save the new IR ID code.

* At this point the flag gets cleared, the process is complete and the unit goes back to normal operation

Let me know how it goes after taking another run at it.

If it still doesn't work, I'll fire up an LDR3 here on my end and run some tests. The software that governs this has been around for almost 2 years now and should not have changed since it was last tested but with software you just never know. One way or the other, this will get worked out. No worries.

Cheers, 
Morten

[wilsynet]

It isn't particularly hard to hold the button down without turning it.  I think this would be more of an issue for someone with arthritis or tremors.  In fact, I think it's particularly unnatural to push down, hold, and turn.  If you feel differently, perhaps we're talking about two different parts.

The unit is on.  I pushed and held down the knob for 30 seconds.  Then I let go.  There is no blinking at all.  I have tried doing this several times, including unplugging and plugging in again and starting from scratch.

Does it need to be precisely 20 seconds?  Usually I go a little over to make sure I did it for long enough.  I'm sure I've tried for 25 seconds too.

Also, when you say "enter" button, do you mean the central selection button on the Apple remote?

[tortugaranger]

It isn't particularly hard to hold the button down without turning it.  I think this would be more of an issue for someone with arthritis or tremors.  In fact, I think it's particularly unnatural to push down, hold, and turn.  If you feel differently, perhaps we're talking about two different parts.

The unit is on.  I pushed and held down the knob for 30 seconds.  Then I let go.  There is no blinking at all.  I have tried doing this several times, including unplugging and plugging in again and starting from scratch.

Does it need to be precisely 20 seconds?  Usually I go a little over to make sure I did it for long enough.  I'm sure I've tried for 25 seconds too.

Also, when you say "enter" button, do you mean the central selection button on the Apple remote?

Hi Wilson,

Thanks for double checking. We're definitely talking the same part as there's only one encoder control knob. Timing doesn't have to be that precise a few seconds beyond 20 to be sure was adequate when this was last tested. And yes, with the Apple Remote, the center button is the Enter/Confirm button.

I will do some live testing with an LDR3 unit and get back to you once I've sorted this out. I believe it's doing (or not doing) exactly what you say. Regardless of the cause, there is a fix. I will get back to you in a day or so with answers and recommendations. 

Best,
Morten

[wilsynet]

No worries.  Thanks for following up so quickly.

[tortugaranger]

No worries.  Thanks for following up so quickly.

Hi Wilson,

Finally had some quality time with the LDR3 to work with the IR ID code change logic and related software.

First, I was wrong about the Status LED going into rapid blinking after releasing the Encoder Switch after 20+ seconds. It doesn't as you've already observed. However, despite the lack of visual feedback, I've confirmed that the unit does enter IR ID Adjust Mode. Once it enters the IR ID Adjust Mode , the LDR3 ignores everything else until it gets an input from the remote. Whatever ID that remote has becomes the new ID. Done.

So in brief, it works mostly as I'd described ....except it doesn't blink. Sorry about the confusion. Give it a try and let me know how it works out.

Cheers,
Morten

[wilsynet]

Didn't work.  Tried a couple of times.

I have an Apple TV and the Tortuga.  And I have two remotes.

The Apple TV is paired with one of the remotes in that it accept commands from one but not the other.  The Tortuga continues to accept commands from both.

Have you tested with two different remotes?

[tortugaranger]

Didn't work.  Tried a couple of times.

I have an Apple TV and the Tortuga.  And I have two remotes.

The Apple TV is paired with one of the remotes in that it accept commands from one but not the other.  The Tortuga continues to accept commands from both.

Have you tested with two different remotes?

Hi Wilson,

This issue has come up a number of times in the past and each time I've managed to convince myself that it's resolved or the customer has found a work around. I managed yet again to talk myself into believing the issue was resolved or was working but after receiving your latest note, I stopped everything to get to the bottom of this once and for all.

Turns out the Apple Remote data structure consists or 4 bytes in a row. Byte 1 is always $EE (hexadecimal notation). Byte 2 is always $68.  You can think of these codes as telling the recipient "this is an Apple Remote". Byte 3 is the command code and will vary depending on which button you press. Finally, Byte 4 is the Apple ID code which is a number between 0 and 255. Thus you can pair up 256 Apple Remotes to control up to 256 different devices.

Our LDRx software has only been looking at Byte 1 and Byte 3 and ignoring the other 2 bytes. Morever, its been incorrectly assuming that Byte 1 ($EE) is the Apple ID code rather than Byte 4. Since Byte 1 never changes, that's why changing your Apple Remote ID code isn't making a difference. The LDR3 keeps seeing $EE as the new ID code, same as the old code.

So, to get this fixed for your unit will require an updated microcontroller chip with updated software. I'll need a day or two to update/test the code and then ship you the updated chip. I'll email you instructions on how to change out the chip.

[wilsynet]

Is the software written in C?  If so, I've been programming in C for 18 years and would be happy to lend a hand.

[tortugaranger]

Is the software written in C?  If so, I've been programming in C for 18 years and would be happy to lend a hand.

It's written in Pascal which is then translated/compiled/linked into assembly and corresponding hex file machine language.  Thanks for the offer but it wouldn't be practical.

Cheers,
Morten

[wilsynet]

Any updates as to when a fix will be available?

Wilson

[tortugaranger]

Any updates as to when a fix will be available?
Wilson

Having worked out all the kinks on this with the V2 am now porting that code over to the LDR3. Expect to do a final check on that today with chip in the post to follow.

Best,
Morten

[wilsynet]

Terrific.  Thanks!

[wilsynet]

Just wanted to let you know that I received the new chip in the mail last week.  Will install this week.

Thanks!

[tortugaranger]

Just wanted to let you know that I received the new chip in the mail last week.  Will install this week.

Thanks!

Here's step by step instructions for replacing the 40 pin chip in the LDR3. http://www.tortugaaudio.com/documentation/#document-12