Heavy, the greater proportion of high-quality capacitance you can afford, the better your system will sound.
If I had a 330uF cap in series with the signal in one of my crossovers (and I'm glad I don't!), probably I'd build it with some affordable polypropylene-film caps for the vast majority of the capacitance and then use higher-quality caps as the sizes got smaller. For instance, maybe I'd start with Solens in 200uF/400v ($49) and 120/400 ($33) (
http://www.percyaudio.com/Catalog.pdf), and finish with North Creek's 10/225 Zen and 0.22 Harmony (
http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Zen.html).
Is your 330uF cap
in series with the signal? Sure is a huge value if it is*. If it's in parallel, I'd build the bulk of its value (maybe even 330uF) with some Black Gate nonpolar electrolytics (from Percy) and add some medium-quality (Solen, Axon, or Reliable) film caps.
The sounds of capacitors, resistors, and inductors are as varied as those of amplifiers and cable and maybe even speakers. Unfortunately, we can't walk into an audio store and audition
capacitors.
I'm upgrading 5 crossovers right now, 4 of which are in identical speakers, Kindel PLS-As. I'm using premium-quality (and -price!) stuff in the front speakers v. otherwise indentical x-overs in surround duty, and I've chosen premium stuff for series applications v. less-expensive stuff for parallel use.
Don't forget that resistors and inductors have sound characteristcs of their own. I ordered North Creek inductors for series use and Mills noninductive wirewound resistors (from Percy) for use everywhere.
Good luck.
BTW I have NO interest in either of these companies I've referenced; I'm just a cash-paying customer.
* For instance, if that's in series with an 8-ohm driver, the filter point is 60HZ! (Formula is 159155/[8*330] = 60)