[Danny Richie]

You can do that. Most of those plate amps dissipate the heat from the surface and not inside the box.

[slosjo]

The cutout dimensions are 9 3/4"W x 6 5/8"H x 2 1/2"D.  At 9 3/4"W it is too wide to fit normally so I would have to turn it sideways to fit. That would stick the top of the amp right in the port opening. 

What do you think about extending the sides, top and bottom 2" beyond the rear baffle then adding a second back with a cutout for the amp? This would put the amp in it's own enclosure attached to the back of the box.

At 2" deep this would leave 1/4" between the back of the amp and the rear baffle. Is this enough room or would it cause the amp to overheat?

If I do this I would have to run hook-up wires from the driver through the rear baffle to the amp. How would you seal this opening?

Mike

Mike, good idea with the added pocket for the amp on the back.  The spot where the wires enter the box will be totally hidden from view, so you could just squirt some silicone in there to seal it.  Also, this is how I installed my amp, FYI.  This sub will be behind a chair so I don't particularly care that it's hanging on the side.  It fits well though and there is clearance all around. 

[mlundy57]

Slosjo,

I never thought of putting the amp on the side I've been fixated with having to put it in the back. That's a good idea I'll have to give that some more thought.

[slosjo]

Thank Danny, it was his suggestion when I called to order the woofers.  Doesn't look half bad, especially if you're just going to try and hide it in a corner

[bdp24]

Dual-opposed subs have their plate amp (if they have one) on the side of the enclosure out of necessity.

[mlundy57]

Will be cutting the material for 4 subs this weekend. Two will be for single driver X-Subs but I would like to do a dual driver version for the other two.

Danny,

I need a little clarification on your suggestion to build two single boxes side by side with a shared side wall.

 In this configuration should the shared wall be solid from top to bottom completely separating both the main air spaces and the ports from each other?

Or would it work better to cut holes in the shared wall with rounded over edges like an internal brace and stop this wall at the bottom port brace effectively making one double wide port opening?

Mike

[Danny Richie]

In this configuration should the shared wall be solid from top to bottom completely separating both the main air spaces and the ports from each other?

That's what I'd do.

Or would it work better to cut holes in the shared wall with rounded over edges like an internal brace and stop this wall at the bottom port brace effectively making one double wide port opening?

That would leave too large or an area un-braced.

[Millicent Bystander]

Danny
Is it at all important sonically to round over the lower perimeter edges of the X-Sub?

Elliott

[Danny Richie]

Danny
Is it at all important sonically to round over the lower perimeter edges of the X-Sub?

Elliott

No, the wavelengths that is plays are way to long to be effected by the edges.

[Millicent Bystander]

Random question.

What would be the impact of facing the driver up instead of down. With the slot port at the bottom facing into the room?

[Danny Richie]

Random question.

What would be the impact of facing the driver up instead of down. With the slot port at the bottom facing into the room?

It is a lot like placing it firing forward. It just makes it hard to dust.   

[mlundy57]

Started working on my X-Subs this past weekend. a few questions:

For a single driver sub:

1) It looks like the largest diameter opening I can cut is 7". This looks like the opening will be side wall to side wall internally which would not allow for a roundover on the back side of the woofer opening. Is this going to be a problem?

2) what would be the result of keeping the port dimensions the same but making the large internal opening 2" taller (increasing the area listed on the plans as 254mm x 279mm (10" x 11") to 254mm x 330mm (10" x 13")? This would let me mount the Yung amp on the back.

For a 2 driver sub:

Danny, you suggested building two boxes side-by-side sharing a common side wall. When I laid this out the two drivers are out to the edges of the enclosure and very close together. Here is a picture. Will this work or is it going to cause a problem?



Mike

[Danny Richie]

1) It looks like the largest diameter opening I can cut is 7". This looks like the opening will be side wall to side wall internally which would not allow for a roundover on the back side of the woofer opening. Is this going to be a problem?

Round overs are not an issue on a sub. The wavelengths are too long and never even propagate in the box. And in this case it doesn't restrict air flow any more than the frame itself.

2) what would be the result of keeping the port dimensions the same but making the large internal opening 2" taller (increasing the area listed on the plans as 254mm x 279mm (10" x 11") to 254mm x 330mm (10" x 13")? This would let me mount the Yung amp on the back.

Making the internals 2" taller isn't going to be a huge deal on this woofer. It will be fine. You'll gain a slight amount if output at 30Hz.

Danny, you suggested building two boxes side-by-side sharing a common side wall. When I laid this out the two drivers are out to the edges of the enclosure and very close together. Here is a picture. Will this work or is it going to cause a problem?

The woofers do get pretty close to the outer wall so when you make the inner wall a common one then you do have to stagger them a bit. Should just fit though.

[mlundy57]

Danny,

Thanks. Thought for a minute there I was going to have to recut MDF.

Any idea how much the boost at 30Hz will be? The Yung 300-6 amp I will be using has a 6dB boost at 30 Hz built in. Will the added boost from the extra 2" be too much when combined with the amp's built in boost?

I'm also thinking about adding a pair of tube connectors to the single sub so I can slave a second passive single enclosure to it if I want to.

Mike

[Danny Richie]

Danny,

Thanks. Thought for a minute there I was going to have to recut MDF.

Any idea how much the boost at 30Hz will be? The Yung 300-6 amp I will be using has a 6dB boost at 30 Hz built in. Will the added boost from the extra 2" be too much when combined with the amp's built in boost?

I'm also thinking about adding a pair of tube connectors to the single sub so I can slave a second passive single enclosure to it if I want to.

Mike

Not much of a boost there. Maybe a 1/2 of a db.

[mlundy57]

Got a single driver X-sub put together and playing yesterday. When I finished building the box (no actual finish yet since it is part of this weekend's audition by my stepdaughter) I was tired and didn't feel like setting the table saw up so I installed the driver and amp before installing the NoRez.

Plenty of sound for a small room (corner loaded) but it had a tendency to sound both boomy and muddy. Removed the amp and installed the NoRez this afternoon.  The NoRez tamed this sub nicely. While not as articulate as my servo subs, this is still a respectable little sub. Much better sounding than either of the two big box store subs I still have in the house.

Should I also install some Acusta Stuff behind the driver and if so, how much.

Mike