Desperately need solution - speaker post broke off of my VR4SR

boe · « **on:** 30 Jan 2014, 05:35 am »

Hello,

I'm going to have to replace the terminal connector on my VR4SRIII - the top half of the speaker has a broken connector. Are the posts available anywhere? Anyone have any experience replacing one? I'll start looking right away. Not quite sure how it happened but apparently the speaker cable must have gotten tight while moving it.

I haven't taken the back plate off in case there are any issues. Some of the connectors on this page look the same from the outside but hard to tell what is on the other side - http://www.aliexpress.com/popular/speaker-connector-types.html

Photon46 · « **Reply #1 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 11:04 am »

Binding posts come in two lengths, short for amps and long for speakers. There are many choices and price ranges. When a binding post on my ACI Talisman SE's broke, I went with a set of Cardas posts, a good balance of quality and cost. I replaced them all because I wanted to upgrade to something better. I'd stay away from anything too cheap, don't want to have to replace them again. It is a straightforward repair, nothing difficult except for one possibility. If the speaker wiring inside that attaches to the binding post is of a thick gauge, you're going to need a sturdy soldering gun. Not a solder pencil. There was so much wiring to be attached to my post replacement I had to get my wife to help me. I used a 100 watt solder gun on one side of the post and she held a 30 watt pencil to the other side. Took a lot of heat to get a good solder joint. The Cardas posts were quite beefy, so a cheaper post with less metal would take less heat.

boe · « **Reply #2 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 01:04 pm »

Thanks for the info! After looking at the cardas ones that they are probably much more durable, I'd rather try to match the originals exactly just for the sake of the looks so they match the other two pairs on this speaker (bottom) and 3 pairs on my other speaker - more like this -http://www.aliexpress.com/item/2-Pcs-Audio-Speaker-Cable-Binding-Post-Connector-Gold-Plated-2-colors-Red-Black-Solder-Type/1091658656.html but without the colors . I have the soldering gun and pencil. I don't have any silver solder yet.

Anyone ever replace the ones that came on their VS? Do you know the exact model of the ones that came on the VS?

PS. I realize my plugs are not tight, I just moved the speaker and didn't want to stress it.

Delacroix · « **Reply #3 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 02:22 pm »

Boe

give Albert and co a call or email -- they are sure to be able to help. I know you want to sort this out quickly but I'd encourage you to fix this once and fix it right. If nothing else, you'll get peace of mind, am sure Albert can help.

Best

P.

boe · « **Reply #4 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 03:21 pm »

Thanks. I agree, I want to do it right. I sent an email yesterday - not sure if that is too small potatoes but I'm hoping to hear back soon.

roscoeiii · « **Reply #5 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 04:11 pm »

I say that if you are going to the trouble of replacing posts, go ahead and give yourself a little upgrade and peace of mind with some indestructible posts like the Cardas.

boe · « **Reply #6 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 04:51 pm »

Thanks. If I don't hear back from Albert, I'll open the back plate and see what my options are. Does it matter if I get the silver or gold plated cardas binding posts?

roscoeiii · « **Reply #7 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 05:19 pm »

I think most people like the solid Cardas binding posts. Brass? Copper? I always get those 2 metals confused.

kernelbob · « **Reply #8 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 05:54 pm »

I would call VSA first @ 951 682-0706. If you're going to replace binding posts, I'd recommend doing both left and right at the same time. Different posts, even different solder will affect the sound. Changing just one side's mid/tweeter posts could well cause an audible difference versus the other speaker. Personally, I'd recommend having VSA fix the terminal. You could send them just the mid/tweeter unit from the one speaker. It may take Albert a while to get to your email, so phone to VSA is a better bet. Sometimes I'll get a response to an email a week or more after sending it, so if there's something I need to get to Albert, I call VSA and have a message delivered to Albert. He's working on many things at once.

Best,
Robert

Photon46 · « **Reply #9 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 06:05 pm »

Quote from: roscoeiii on 30 Jan 2014, 05:19 pm

I think most people like the solid Cardas binding posts. Brass? Copper? I always get those 2 metals confused.

I used the solid copper binding posts, but probably would not make that choice in retrospect. Why? It's impossible to keep the bare copper looking decent, oxidizes like crazy. The parts clamped together that are kept away from the atmosphere stay shiny, but every other part quickly oxidizes to a cruddy dark brown. The knurled finish is really difficult to clean and polish. Doing it again, I'd opt for a plated finish, probably the standard gold.

The use of cheap binding posts on amps and speakers drives me nuts. I know everything is built to a price point, but that's one place I hate to see manufacturers scrimp.

boe · « **Reply #10 on:** 30 Jan 2014, 08:26 pm »

Good news! THey are sending me a replacement binding post!

I may buy spares of the default ones or go with the cardas next time around - this was the best pricing I could find on the Cardas - http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/bindingpost/cardas_ccgr.htm

Photon46 · « **Reply #11 on:** 31 Jan 2014, 03:26 pm »

If you decide to replace them, those are a good choice. Sonic Craft is a great vendor, that's who I bought my posts from. Excellent service. Oh, and if you don't have a good solder, you're going to need one. I've bought solder for years from this Ebay seller who sells smaller quantities of solder, so you don't have to spend $75 -$100 on a full roll of the good stuff. I like the 4% silver WBT, it melts really easily at lower temperature than most solders.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/silverextra/m.html?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEFSXS%3AMESOI&_trksid=p2053788.m1543.l2654

boe · « **Reply #12 on:** 31 Jan 2014, 03:48 pm »

Thanks for the tip. The stuff I ordered was 4% but had a higher melting point. We'll see if I cancelled it in time.

boe · « **Reply #13 on:** 4 Feb 2014, 05:39 pm »

I haven't received the VS replacement yet so I decided to look at more binding posts. I use this company's locking banana plugs (not seen in the picture above) and am happy with them - good bang for the buck. Unfortunately I can't find any write ups on their binding posts. I was curious if anyone has used these? http://www.aecconnectors.com.tw/en/2_678/manufacturer/BINDING_POSTS_id13746.html

I would imagine they are about 1/3 the price of the cardas and if I'm replacing 6 sets of binding posts I might want to look for something a tad more reasonable in price but still with good quality.

boe · « **Reply #14 on:** 7 Feb 2014, 03:36 pm »

They sent me the replacement post and even included some soldering wire!!!

Only problem is I can't seem to remove the back plate after removing the screws. I'll call today for more details on the proper way to remove it.

thorman · « **Reply #15 on:** 7 Feb 2014, 04:00 pm »

I had the same issue with the Back plate removal ( Kharma Ceramiques ) ....I found that it was sealed with either a Mortite and a silicon sealant of some type. I eventually put a pair of pliers on the broken Post and pulled and it finally came loose......While I was waiting for my new WBT post to arrive, I actually ran the speakers internal Silver wire attached to a Bare Wire speaker cable.....At the time it actually sounded better this way going Bare Wire ( eliminating a Binding post connection ) ..I guess you can say the best connection is no connection .....

kernelbob · « **Reply #16 on:** 7 Feb 2014, 06:06 pm »

... and that's why I mentioned that different binding post will sound different. The best sounding post in any given implementation will not necessarily be the biggest or a most expensive alloy, etc. Same thing with solder. I'm glad VSA included some solder for you. This will help ensure that the repaired product will sound the same as the original (and the other channel's speaker).

rpf · « **Reply #17 on:** 7 Feb 2014, 06:15 pm »

Quote from: Photon46 on 30 Jan 2014, 06:05 pm

I used the solid copper binding posts, but probably would not make that choice in retrospect. Why? It's impossible to keep the bare copper looking decent, oxidizes like crazy. The parts clamped together that are kept away from the atmosphere stay shiny, but every other part quickly oxidizes to a cruddy dark brown. The knurled finish is really difficult to clean and polish. Doing it again, I'd opt for a plated finish, probably the standard gold.

The use of cheap binding posts on amps and speakers drives me nuts. I know everything is built to a price point, but that's one place I hate to see manufacturers scrimp.

Same here, re: cheap binding posts.

I also use the Cardas solid copper binding posts (and spades), because they sound so much better than anything else I've heard. Per a tip from Jennifer Crock (Jena Labs), I use a very light coating of Silchem silicone grease on the bare copper to prevent oxidation.

boe · « **Reply #18 on:** 7 Feb 2014, 08:30 pm »

VS took the time to send me a picture of a custom made tool they made for removing the back cover. I fashioned a similar tool and boom, I was in business!

blownrx7 · « **Reply #19 on:** 7 Feb 2014, 09:37 pm »

Quote from: boe on 7 Feb 2014, 08:30 pm

VS took the time to send me a picture of a custom made tool they made for removing the back cover. I fashioned a similar tool and boom, I was in business!

Hey BOE,
Please post a picture of the tool so we all can benefit

TIA