[G E]

I was looking through the Well Tempered website and saw the outboard power supply. $400 seems kinda high for a 12v dc linear regulated power supply. I got out my Mouser Electronics catalog and browsed through the power supply section.  There are quite a few options and most of them under $50.

Seems like a person could get one of these, put it in a box with some wires and connectors going in and out and be all set.  Granted it wouldn't look as nice as the official solution. But it would be funky like the Amadeus.

Has anyone done this or even just sourced a good schematic and parts and built something on a breadboard?

[watercourse]

Check out doak's posts, like this one: http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=118156.0

I don't know if anyone has directly compared the DPS vs. off the shelf options, but I for one would be curious.

[SteevA]

I have the DPS but am not convinced that a large part of the improvement does not come from removing the effects of a switch mode power supply from the mix.

If that was the case, then any reasonably competent linear PSU would have the same effect.  I have no plans to test this out, by buying another PSU that I ultimately won’t need, but don’t let that stop you experimenting.

Steve

[G E]

My linear regulated power supply finally arrived. I went with a Sola 12 v 3.4 amp unit. Amadeus pulls way less than even 1 amp, but I will be able to use this for electronics projects as well. I also got the over voltage protection module.

I am looking for a nice case, metalwork prices have really gone up the past few years. Hammond 1401a is the current front runner.

This should come in under $100. Haven't decided whether to go with a captive powercord or use an IEC socket and I am still pondering the 12v hook ups on the unit.  I plan to use shielded two conductor solid copper for the run to Amadeus.

I'll post my results here once all is up and running.

[G E]

All parts are finally in hand. I found NOS Simpson vdc panel meter that will monitor voltage and provide power on status.

Next step is parts layout on front and back panels, cutting the holes ( challenging without all the right metal fabricating tools) and then soldering connections.

More later!

[G E]

I finished all of the metal fabrication today. A drill press would have the work a lot easier. The Simpson panel meter and the electrical connectors are installed in front and back panels. Just need to do the internal wiring and then make up a couple electrical cables to run power to WTA and it will be done!

[roscoeiii]

Another possibility for the Amadeus, that I am quite interested in for my Rock 7:

http://hifiheaven.net/store/Phoenix-Engineering-Falcon-PSU-Turntable-Speed-Controller

Way cheaper than an SDS, and there is also a a very cool looking tachometer made by the same folks...

[Erocka2000]

Another possibility for the Amadeus, that I am quite interested in for my Rock 7:

http://hifiheaven.net/store/Phoenix-Engineering-Falcon-PSU-Turntable-Speed-Controller

Way cheaper than an SDS, and there is also a a very cool looking tachometer made by the same folks...

The Falcon is for AC motors, so I'm not it will work with the DC servo motor in the Amadeus.

[threadkiller]

My laugh out loud moment of the night...thanks, Rosco.
I never even considered that $378 was "way cheaper" than $400.  What savings!

[roscoeiii]

My laugh out loud moment of the night...thanks, Rosco.
I never even considered that $378 was "way cheaper" than $400.  What savings!

"cheaper than an SDS" ($1200 or so). Didn't recall that the WTA was DC,  so yeah the Phoenix may not work with them.

[threadkiller]

Oops... Another late nite fumble... Sorry, I got confused with the SDS, SSS, DPS, DDT, etc.
The only thing from VPI worth $1200 is the new Nomad- after all these years they finally made a decent table... Or else 2 16.5 cleaners... Although I'm very disenchanted with them after hearing what a good machine can do. 
An SDS can't make its own makes sounds better , why would you sabotage the WTL?

[mick wolfe]

The Falcon is for AC motors, so I'm not it will work with the DC servo motor in the Amadeus.

You're absolutely right. I already inquired and it's a no go with the Amadeus. I'm extremely satisfied with the Amadeus as is, but I was intrigued by a device that could change speeds without touching the belt.

[threadkiller]

That would be nice...

[G E]

I should have this buttoned up tonight, barring the unforeseen... like small explosion, fire and electrocution. Ha ha I make joke....

The front panel is decidedly retro with the vintage analog panel meter front and center. It also features a chrome toggle to switch between two sets of outputs - minus and plus binding posts and the dc jack with the same style connector found on WTA and lots of laptops.

Just a couple more solder joints and screw it all together and it's done. Hopefully pics will follow.

[OzarkTom]

If that power supply does not work out, try one of the Astron's. I have tried it on an amp an a great improvement, I now have one hooked up to an IFI Itube and a huge improvement, night and day. These can be bought for about $50 on Ebay, $100 new.

[G E]

Success!

No small explosion, no fire, no shocks. Not even is whiff of smoke.

I didn't have time to make up a cable so the test drive waits for another day, tomorrow perhaps. It's always kinda sad to come to the end of the parts bags, but the finished product is nice.

I have a couple small things I want to do yet internally- a bit of wire management and so forth.

The Simpson analog meter is right on 12vdc, confirmed by my digital multimeter. Over voltage protection set to trip at 13v.

If I were to build it again I would use a different case. The Hammond I used was a bit snug mainly due to the depth of the meter case. I'm also not crazy about how the case fits together, kinda cheesy. The top and bottom pieces also eac provide hAlf of the side and they meet in a simple butt joint. No channel to fit into. i have a very slight 60 hz vibration that goes away with the slightest pressure applied to the side. My soldering station does the same thin albeit much louder.  In any case, it won't be heard during listening sessions as it will be in the equipment closet and not the listening room.

I hope to have a listening report in the next couple days.

[G E]

It is done!

Finished it up last week and dialed in the output to within a hundredth or two of a volt from 12 vdc.

The analog meter showing output voltage is neat. Put on the speed accuracy disc and it was dead on.

The last vestige of hum and noise attributable to the wall wort supply is gone. You may recall the stock wall wart contributed an unacceptable amount of noise and I had been using the ps from a PC monitor.

I had grounded the negative to the turntable ground with the wall warts but I achieved much much better results with that wire removed. The DC output is floating ground, negative terminal is not connected to chassis/electrical ground.

How does it compare to WT's power supply?  I haven't the foggiest since I haven't compared side by side. I have about $100 in it which, at first glance, looks like a bargain compared to WT product. BUT, they provide a warranty, it looks sleeker ( but I like mine better), and it likely is UL approved.

But if you like to source parts, figure out lay-outs and enjoy the smell of rosin flux in the morning, go for it.

I'll post pics when I figure out how to do it.

[G E]

The chrome toggle switch is DPDT so moving it to the right energizes the DC outlet. Moving it all the way to the left puts power to the binding posts. Center position does not distribute any power.

AC switch is on the back panel.

I'll post a couple shots of the inside next time I am in there.