[raysracing]

My system has been all smiles, but I've been using the sub out of my home theater (different room/floor).  I want to return it to the HT. I also want to pair up two subwoofers to couple the room to go along with my amazing Omega 3 speakers. I think I will be in a state of musical bliss once this is accomplished (well you know-more or less). I dont need 20hz so maybe I just need powered woofers.  So I had this crazy idea and this always leads to questions.

In the short term I was thinking about using my very efficient  Tekton Lore's as my subwoofers with a pair of cheap crossovers (crossed at 100 or 150hz) from Parts Express and one of my amps I have in the house. They have great bass.  I dont have any high power SS amps and this is just temporary. I will need an amp with a volume control I know.  I believe I can do this for about $60 or less in wire  and parts. That is super cheap and cheerful!

One of my questions is I have an extra stereo out on my Trung Optocoupler Preamplifier I will use, but do I run the subs in stereo then? Or will it get beamy and ruin the imaging and soundstage? if not then how does one wire up two subs in a stereo set-up?

Here is one low pass crossover I thought about. http://www.parts-express.com/subwoofer-crossover-8-ohm-150-hz-200w--260-220

My other idea was to buy the plate amplifiers form the Parts Express for their smallest kit and slowly buy the parts to build two subs, but then you lose the deal from buying all the parts at once. But I still need to know how to wire them up properly.

Desperate times (financially) call for desperate measures.  But I had the AC audiophile brethren over a couple weeks ago and they were quite pleased with my system so I know I am on the right track.

[JohnR]

Hi raysracing, I'm wondering if you've looked at PE's completed subwoofers? Starting at $89:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-800-8-80-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-627

I don't know anything about them at all, obviously they are cheap as chips but on their site they do get good reviews. I'd splurge and go for the 12" at $129:

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629

That would be better than spending money on a temporary solution like the crossovers you linked. ??

[JLM]

More options (from Amazon):

BIC America F12 (been popular for awhile as a music/HT sub, $200).

Martin Logan Dynamo 300 (mostly for music, a surprisingly inexpensive piece, $130).

[Ericus Rex]

I'm with JohnR on this one; buying something designed for sub work would be the better option.

Another sub to add to the suggestions already would be the Pioneer SW-8 Mk2.  I have one and it does music just fine.  If you're patient you can find them on Amazon for $80 shipped brand new.  That price is an absolute steal!  And I'd imagine it would work better then the PE subs because it's Andrew Jones designed.

[raysracing]

I'm with JohnR on this one; buying something designed for sub work would be the better option.

Another sub to add to the suggestions already would be the Pioneer SW-8 Mk2.  I have one and it does music just fine.  If you're patient you can find them on Amazon for $80 shipped brand new.  That price is an absolute steal!  And I'd imagine it would work better then the PE subs because it's Andrew Jones designed.

JohnR, JLM and Ericus-I figured any sub under $300 would be pure crappy BOOM and Thump.  I am glad to be wrong.  I have a bunch of Amazon gift cards right now so I think I'll look at the SW-8MK2 and the Martin Logan for starters.   I really want two as I am all about soundstage and imaging and I hear coupling the room with dual subs is the way to go for what I like.  I also have a pair of the BS-22LR's if I ever want to match them up.

So the less they cost the sooner I can get two.  Any idea on the best set-up for wiring them given my single stereo output on my pre?

TIA,
Ray

[charmerci]

I'm using one of these.


http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107186-Splitter-Adaptor-Plated/dp/B004C8I88W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390848818&sr=8-1&keywords=monoprice+rca+y+adaptor

[skifasterslc]

For a C&C sub, I am going to attempt a DIY option.  Here is a link to flat pack (box)  supplier with quality stuff
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/2-sub-flat-pack.html 

So I will use a 2 cu foot box sealed  for $73 and and Infinity 1260 driver  $61 ref sub from amazon at    http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-1260w-1200-watt-High-Performance/dp/B0028AVGEO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1390864622&sr=8-1&keywords=infinity+1260w         ( i actually found one locally for $50)

and then a Bash amp from partsexpress http://www.parts-express.com/bash-300s-digital-subwoofer-plate-amplifier-300w-rms--300-750
that should be enough power      at $135

from what I have read, seems like a good performer for less than $300.  If it goes well, i will build another in a few months.  my dilemma is do I build the plate amp into cabinet, or leave it outboard by building a simple 1"x2" wood frame for it?  I am leaning toward outboard option.   Although the plate amp is designed to be built in

[mcgsxr]

I have built many DIY subs, and have done both installing the amp in the box, and done outboard.

Could just be coincidence, but the outboard amps seem to last longer.  If you have the space, and can live with the look, I'd go outboard every time.

Both my main floor and basement HT subs have outboard amps. 

[Speedskater]

Hey Ray, how much room to you have for a sub?  I have a VMPS sub just sitting here.

[Brad]

I built a pair of the "Bucket Subs" for about $80 each (including drivers, buckets, concrete, wire, hardware, and binding posts).  They work well with my little Pioneer '41 bookshelf speakers.
They add a nice weight to the music, and work seamlessly with the Pioneers.

I already had a Crown XLS amp to drive them (that may rule me out of C&C, but it was pretty reasonably priced  )
The Pioneers are running full range, and the Bucket subs are crossed at 80hz.

[raysracing]

I built a pair of the "Bucket Subs" for about $80 each (including drivers, buckets, concrete, wire, hardware, and binding posts).  They work well with my little Pioneer '41 bookshelf speakers.
They add a nice weight to the music, and work seamlessly with the Pioneers.

I already had a Crown XLS amp to drive them (that may rule me out of C&C, but it was pretty reasonably priced  )
The Pioneers are running full range, and the Bucket subs are crossed at 80hz.

Speedskater-big room. I could easily run multiple subs in this room. 

Brad-ok now I have to research Bucket Subs!  Sounds really interesting.

[Letitroll98]

Brad-ok now I have to research Bucket Subs!  Sounds really interesting.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=119271.0   

[vlad335]

I built a pair of the "Bucket Subs" for about $80 each (including drivers, buckets, concrete, wire, hardware, and binding posts).  They work well with my little Pioneer '41 bookshelf speakers.
They add a nice weight to the music, and work seamlessly with the Pioneers.

Ok. Now I may build one of these.

[raysracing]

I just got socked with a $400 car repair bill (to pass the Ohio emissions test) so this hurt the already meager budget.  I think I will buy the driver and misc small parts for the Bucket Sub (SubTub is my term of endearment). Well I'll buy enough little parts to build two and cut the buckets, fill with concrete, but finish one with driver and find a suitable amp. 

Brad-since my whole system is low powered and my room goes south at high volumes anyways, can I go with say a 100W 8Ohm amp?  Or do I need a 250watt amp as most subs have?

Ray

[Brad]

Sorry for the slow reply Ray - just saw your question.

My answer is:  Not Sure 
I am using a Crown XLS which is way overkill, but it's what I had and I like the sound of it.

That said, I think 100w would be fine.   Parts Express has a plate amp sale going on right now - even the 300wpc models are down around $110.
The 100w models are $70-80 right now. 

[raysracing]

Well I just stole my dad's Radio Shack subwoofer to see if I even like two subs and I like it! Louis from Omega said dual subs open up the soundstage and i have to say the "disappearing speakers" effect is true.