Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question

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mlundy57

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Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« on: 16 Dec 2013, 03:20 am »
I plan on using the iron & heatlock glue method of applying the veneer to my N3's. I have been reading as much as I can find about this method of applying veneer and have come across conflicting information regarding the use of steam from the iron. Some information says use light steam while others say not to use any steam.

What has been your experience with this method?

Also any other advice about applying veneer this way would be appreciated, especially about going around rounded corners. I have put 3/4" roundovers on the long edges of the front baffle and intend to use a single piece of veneer to cover the front baffle and both sides.

Mike

glynnw

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Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #1 on: 16 Dec 2013, 04:06 am »
I used an iron on veneer last week and could not stop the iron from steaming.  It seems to have worked fine, but I look forward to some replies from those with real experience at this.

Captainhemo

Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #2 on: 16 Dec 2013, 04:19 am »
hey Guys
I know Ron  has used the Heat Lock adhesive quite a bit and really  likes it.  Hopefully he'll  chime in and  give some pointers . If not, shoot him a PM 

-jay

subassemble

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Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #3 on: 16 Dec 2013, 02:33 pm »
I wonder how the heat lock adhesive compares to regular Titebond or Titebond II using the same iron-on method. Is this a case of relabeling common wood glue, or is there something special about their formula?

randytsuch

Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #4 on: 16 Dec 2013, 02:45 pm »
I wonder how the heat lock adhesive compares to regular Titebond or Titebond II using the same iron-on method. Is this a case of relabeling common wood glue, or is there something special about their formula?

Some info here on titebond and iron on veneering

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?33419-Important-info-re-iron-on-veneer-with-Titebond-glues

subassemble

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Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #5 on: 16 Dec 2013, 02:54 pm »
Thanks - that's valuable info. It would be a real nuisance to unwittingly let the reactivation time expire before reheating. I have only used this method once - to apply a fabric to some cabinets - and it worked wonderfully. But I did use Titebond II and I'm certain I let more than 12 hours go by before applying. Maybe I got lucky. Pics of that here and here,



Some info here on titebond and iron on veneering

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php?33419-Important-info-re-iron-on-veneer-with-Titebond-glues

GT Audio Works

Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #6 on: 16 Dec 2013, 03:09 pm »
Hi Mike,
 I have used heat lock in the past with just as good results as cold glue methods.
The main thing with heat lock is the type of veneer you use..a raw veneer with no backing is harder to deal with. Due the fact that you must apply the liquid glue to both the veneer and the wood surface and let it dry tacky. During drying the veneer will curl along the longitudinal lines of the grain, especially in the case of seamed pieces taped together to form a larger sheet. Also be careful as you apply the veneer to the surface that you get it down flat, no slight warp or crease, which will cause a bubble or warp further down the work surface.
Using paper backed veneer relieves these issues also does wood backed veneer, which is a  veneer with a backing veneer glued together with the grains 90 degrees to each other very strong and durable but tough to go around steep curved corners.
As far as steam..I always set it on a higher setting no steam(water drained from iron)and  put a thin cotton material down between the iron and the work surface. 
Also it is difficult to get a thin even coat, use a veneer application roller..too thick and you have points where the glue underneath is still wet and will not adhere well to the wood.    Greg

Hank

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Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #7 on: 16 Dec 2013, 05:51 pm »
I used HeatLock on a pair of speakers once - no steam.  It was not easier than my preferred method, contact cement.  And the leftover amount went bad in less than a year.  I've always used 10mil paper backed veneer.
« Last Edit: 17 Dec 2013, 12:34 pm by Hank »

Ron

Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #8 on: 16 Dec 2013, 06:43 pm »
  I've been using the Heat Lock /Iron on veneer method for the past several years and it has worked well for me.
The type of veneer I normally use is 10 mil paper backed. I usually apply two (2) thin coats of the Heat Lock glue
with a foam roller to the back of the veneer and to the cabinet surface allowing the glue to dry completely between coats. When the glue has dried, lay the veneer on the cabinet surface. Starting at one end, use a clothes iron set on medium heat (no steam) and iron on the veneer. Make sure that the veneer is laid flat and that no pockets are formed. Also,be sure to keep the iron moving to prevent scorching. Using a cotton cloth, like an old t-shirt, between the iron and the veneer also helps to minimize the potential for scorching.

  Hope this info is helpful.

Ron

mlundy57

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Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #9 on: 16 Dec 2013, 06:51 pm »
Ron,

Do you put the glue on all sides of a speaker cabinet before you start veneering or do you do one side complete before starting on the next side?

I'm using a 22.2 mil laminated back veneer described as a "bubble free veneer" that will form over edges with less cracking.

Mike

Ron

Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #10 on: 16 Dec 2013, 10:28 pm »
 Mike,

   I normally do one side at a time.

mlundy57

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Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #11 on: 16 Dec 2013, 10:40 pm »
Thanks all

I am going to try a test with a flat piece of scrap MDF tonight. Then I'm going to veneer a set of AV-1 cabinets with a 10 mil paperbacked Mahogany to work out any kinks before I put the 22.2 mil South American Rosewood veneer on the N3's.

Mike

mlundy57

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Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #12 on: 29 Dec 2013, 03:08 am »
I have used a gallon of Heat Lock glue to veneer  a pair of AV-1's and a pair of N3's. Does that sound reasonable or am I using too much glue?

Thanks,

 Mike

ebag4

Re: Heat Lock/Iron on veneer Method question
« Reply #13 on: 29 Dec 2013, 03:29 am »
I have done a pair of V1s and N3s and have most of a gallon left.  I used raw veneer on both projects.

Best,
Ed