[slovell1]

Has anyone had the Soundsmith ruby cantilever replacement done to theirs? The cantilever has been completely sheared off of mine and I'm trying to decide whether to repair or replace the cart.
Thanks, Sam

[neobop]

Can't shed much light on your question, but a level 3 repair (ruby/micro) might not be worth it.  You can buy a new one for $330 at LpGear. 

A level 2 ($250) ruby/line contact might be good. 
neo

[slovell1]

Yeah, for the money I've been considering just replacing it with a new one from LPGear. I'm just curious as to how the ruby cantilever compares to the boron soundwise.

[orthobiz]

I would call SoundSmith. A couple of years ago I rehabilitated a B&O turntable to give to my daughter. Peter Ledermann answered the phone and talked me out of the higher end cartridge for the particular table I had. So…

*I think he'll give you good advice
*I don't think he's all about the money

Paul

[fsimms]

I have sent my OS9/2 to Audio Technica before for replacement.  The last time I think it cost me $250.  They sent me a new one.

Bob

[slovell1]

I went ahead and bought a new one from LPGear. I think I'll send the damaged one to Soundsmith for a level two rebuild sometime early next year. Could be interesting to compare the two.
Regards, Sam

[neobop]

I have sent my OS9/2 to Audio Technica before for replacement.  The last time I think it cost me $250.  They sent me a new one.
Bob

Slovell,
You obviously like the cart as-is. IMO you should consider Bob's possible alternative.  If AT gives you the same deal you'll have a bran new back up or something to trade if you want to try a different cart.  A level 2 rebuild will cost as much.  It might be an improvement and it might not.  It's hard to predict, but it will be at least slightly different and probably worth less.

I saw your thread on Agon which prompted this post.  It's not surprising that you got few replies, considering the cost.  I'd be curious too, but you might also want to try an OC9 III or a 33EV if you want to tone it down a little.  Just thought I'd mention that.
neo

[slovell1]

I do like the sound as is, it has very good synergy with my JMW-9 arm on my Scout. I had a 33EV on it for a while and prefer the 0C9/ll IMHO. I'm undecided about what to do with the damaged 0C9/ll. I went ahead and bought a replacement from LPGear and have it in hand. I'm understandably curious about how the Soundsmith ruby rebuild would sound compared to stock, I've read many glowing reviews about the ruby but can't recall ever reading one about the 0C9/ll which I find a bit odd. Surely someone has had it done. I agree with you though Neo, curiosity about the ruby conversion will most likely get the best of me and I'll have it done just to hear it.
Regards, Sam

[neobop]

Sam,
You ought to call Peter at Soundsmith.  He's a straight shooter and I don't think he'll just try to talk you into it.  On the other hand, he might not be aware of all those who regretted a rebuild.  I had a DL304 that was given to me with a broken cantilever and had a level 2 rebuild done - ruby/LC.  The results were amazing with detail and harmonic resolution that would elude most any cart.  Only trouble was, it was merciless.  If VTA was off a hair or playing a less than perfect record, it would sound even worse.  Not exactly practical for someone like me, I have mostly vintage records and adjustments are all over the place.  Peter never knew about it.  I just sold it as-is.

Your OC9 is a different story.  It has a boron cantilever to begin with and going to ruby shouldn't be such a dramatic change.  When something comes out that I'd like to try, I can't help but regret buying current 5 tables and a jillion replacement styli.  Here's the latest object of desire:
http://www.amazon.com/audio-technica-Stereo-cartridge-AT-ART7-Import/dp/B009SIJ7SQ

I guess the value of an OC9II won't pay for that, but it's a start.   
neo