MDF enclosures for X-LS encore

BK_856er · « **on:** 5 Dec 2013, 02:33 am »

Will be picking up some unfinished MDF X-LS enclosures and kits from Danny and assembling my first DIY speaker as a gift.

Final finish TBD by recipient.

Some questions:

- Is there a good temporary finish to make them a bit more presentable in the raw state? Something that won't really affect a later paint job?

- Was planning to add some additional bracing to bring the enclosures up to spec with the PDF. Can I use any old solid wood for this, or should I seek out MDF?

- Will use No-Rez foam. Do I understand correctly that I should setback the foam about 1" from the front baffle to allow sufficient room for the woofer?

- Is poly-fill in addition to No-Rez recommended?

Thanks!

BK

jparkhur · « **Reply #1 on:** 5 Dec 2013, 04:07 pm »

A good primer is to be used on the mdf cabinets, and will help hide the lines

I upgraded the xo's with great results

Used no rez and some stuffing fill. One inch back from front baffle and don't cover port opening with stuffing.

I used some hardwood dowels at random points to stiffen up the box some.

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=118475.msg1244618#msg1244618

Jon

jparkhur · « **Reply #2 on:** 5 Dec 2013, 04:08 pm »

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=115826.msg1216614#msg1216614

carbon spray paint over primer...

Captainhemo · « **Reply #3 on:** 5 Dec 2013, 08:59 pm »

You could use something like the Behr Premium paint/primer combo which would act as a primer but also look more appealing than just plain primer.

I'd recommend acusti-stuf rather than ply fil
http://www.parts-express.com/acousta-stuf-polyfill-speaker-cabinet-sound-damping-material-1-lb-bag--260-317
Get a 1lb bag and use an oz - 1.5 oz in each cabinet being careful not cover the prt as others mentioned.

-jay

mlundy57 · « **Reply #4 on:** 5 Dec 2013, 10:15 pm »

Somebody posted awhile back that if you order the acusti-stuf through Amazon shipping is a whole lot cheaper even though it still comes from Parts Express. I was going to order the 1# bag directly from Parts Express when I built the N1X's but the shipping cost was more than the acusta-stuf was. If you are ordering something else from PE at the same time then the additional shipping for the acusti-stuff isn't very much. When I built the X-LS & X-CS Encores I ordered a yard of grill cloth along with the acusti-stuf.

Mike

lacro · « **Reply #5 on:** 6 Dec 2013, 12:00 am »

Quote from: BK_856er on 5 Dec 2013, 02:33 am

Some questions:

- Is there a good temporary finish to make them a bit more presentable in the raw state? Something that won't really affect a later paint job?
Thanks!
BK

India ink..... works great on MDF. Use the alcohol base version.

BK_856er · « **Reply #6 on:** 6 Dec 2013, 06:45 pm »

Thanks, guys. Lots to think about.

BK

BK_856er · « **Reply #7 on:** 15 Dec 2013, 04:10 am »

Plan to start the build tomorrow - Sunday.

Question on cutting the No-Rez foam. I don't have a table-saw, but I do have a dremel. Would a circular cutting wheel work on the hard side? I'm thinking of the steel toothed wheels, not the abrasive wheels. Have plenty of sharp box cutters, too.

BK

persisting1 · « **Reply #8 on:** 15 Dec 2013, 06:06 am »

A Dremel should work well. I used a sharp pair of scissors. I'd use a Dremel now that I own one.

Quote from: BK_856er on 15 Dec 2013, 04:10 am

Plan to start the build tomorrow - Sunday.

Question on cutting the No-Rez foam. I don't have a table-saw, but I do have a dremel. Would a circular cutting wheel work on the hard side? I'm thinking of the steel toothed wheels, not the abrasive wheels. Have plenty of sharp box cutters, too.

BK

BK_856er · « **Reply #9 on:** 16 Dec 2013, 08:24 am »

Made some good progress today.

Added additional bracing with Liquid Nails and put a smear on the inside seams. Modified tweeter opening for Encore parts. Is that cracked cross brace an issue?

Sanded, filled outside seams, couple coats of sealer/primer. Will eventually be bed liner black.

Fit most of the No-Rez. Ended up cutting with a box cutter and razor blade.

Finished off the No-Rez.

Cross-overs are next. Any tricks for drilling the screw pilot holes?

BK

BK_856er · « **Reply #10 on:** 16 Dec 2013, 08:44 pm »

The bed liner goes on very nicely!

BK

Danny Richie · « **Reply #11 on:** 16 Dec 2013, 11:46 pm »

Man, those are looking good.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #12 on:** 17 Dec 2013, 01:41 am »

BK
If you like the textured look (which I do) the bed liner works great. If you are after a different color, you can top it with paint , I used some of the Dupli Color mettalic series and it worked very well with the bed liner, seems tough too.
There is also a company called Line-X that makes bed liner/protective coatings and they'll do custom colors for you
http://www.line-x.ca/index.php?page=colour

Looking good

-jay

Mr. Oczka · « **Reply #13 on:** 17 Dec 2013, 11:29 am »

The finish on it is awesome! What brand did you use and how did you apply it?

BK_856er · « **Reply #14 on:** 17 Dec 2013, 05:23 pm »

The product I used is Rust-Oleum Truck Bed Coating p/n 248914. Only option at my local store!

Simply sprayed it on using the usual rattle can good practices and back label instructions. Outdoor temp was ~65F.

I almost don't want to mess with them because they look so good right now, but I'm going to use a second can today, 24hrs after the first application. I continue to be impressed with the surface finish. Very classy and stealth looking at distance and up close. I guess it's the evil twin of the piano black high-gloss surface.

Thanks to Danny for suggesting a "bed liner" paint!

Jay - good to know about the top coating option if black does not work out.

BK

Captainhemo · « **Reply #15 on:** 17 Dec 2013, 07:17 pm »

BK, one thing worth noting is that the finish can be hard to clean... dust tends to get trapped easily. Was kind of driving my mom nuts with their N3's. I suggested using a tack rag and it has worked very well.

-jay

BK_856er · « **Reply #16 on:** 17 Dec 2013, 10:45 pm »

Bed liner coat #2 went on nicely.

The MDF port opening is 2-1/4" and the kit port tube is smaller at 2". Should I just RTV it roughly centered in the hole, or take other measures, such as wrap some weatherstrip or similar?

Any tricks for making pilot holes to screw down the crossover PCB? Space is pretty limited in there.

BK

mlundy57 · « **Reply #17 on:** 17 Dec 2013, 11:48 pm »

I drill pilot holes in the crossover board just large enough for the screws to go through without catching. Then I use SPAX self-taping screws http://www.spax.us/ to fasten the board to the cabinet. By using self taping screws I do not need pilot holes in the cabinet. Also, I find a flexible screwdriver comes in real handy.

Mike

mlundy57 · « **Reply #18 on:** 18 Dec 2013, 12:00 am »

Quote from: BK_856er on 17 Dec 2013, 10:45 pm

The MDF port opening is 2-1/4" and the kit port tube is smaller at 2". Should I just RTV it roughly centered in the hole, or take other measures, such as wrap some weatherstrip or similar?

BK

If the port tube's flange doesn't cover the opening you could make something like a large wooden washer out of 1/4" material with a proper size opening for the port tube. Then you could attach the port tube to the washer and the whole thing to the cabinet.

Or maybe Danny has a different port tube that would work with the 2 1/4" opening.

Mike

Danny Richie · « **Reply #19 on:** 18 Dec 2013, 12:20 am »

Quote from: BK_856er on 17 Dec 2013, 10:45 pm

The MDF port opening is 2-1/4" and the kit port tube is smaller at 2". Should I just RTV it roughly centered in the hole, or take other measures, such as wrap some weatherstrip or similar?

BK

I ran into that with this batch of cabinets too. I went around the port tube with some layers of electrical tape until it made a snug fit then glued it in with Silicone.