[Marbles]

I now use external jumpers to go from the mid terminals to the bass terminals on my RM40's and don't want the switch in the signal path.

What's the best way to remove it?

Thanks.

[Redbone]

Marbles, If you have a jumper in place the switch is for all intent and purpose removed by turning the switch to the "off" or bi-amp position.  Think about it.

[Marbles]

Redbone, there are still at least 2 solder joints in the signal path with the switch hooked up.  I want to totally eliminate these from the signal path.

[Redbone]

Marbles, you will do more harm than good trying to undo the wires from the joints.  If it really bothers you, remove the bottom active woofer and just clip the wire flush at the binding post.  Otherwise you will have to use a soldering iron to heat the post enough to unwrap the wire and then re-solder the existing wires.  If you are skilled with a soldering iron this is not a horrible thing to do, and you can check for other problems while you're in there.

[mgalusha]

Rob,

Even bi-wired the switch is still in the signal path to the woofers. I can say this from working on two different set's of RM-40's. The easiest (and easiest to reverse) way to remove the switch from the signal path is to solder a jumper from the center switch terminals - leading to the woofer XO, to the switch terminals leading to the woofer binding posts. On the two pairs I did this to these were the lower terminals. I used some 12ga Monster cable, in this case it was the old wire I removed from the mid/tweeter binding posts to the switch as both owners had no desire to make this reversible. Two short pieces, about 1 inch long is all that is needed, so most any quality wire should be OK and it can be bare, so insulation is not important.

You will still have the solder joints in the path but they are almost certainly less resistance than the switch contacts. FWIW one of the speakers I did this to had a failed switch so it was a more in the repair category than the mod category.

I don't know how much audible benefit there was to this but it could increase the bass damping a bit since it will lower the series resistance slightly (or not so slightly depending on the condition of the switch).

I imagine this will void your warranty but perhaps not. Brian would of course be the one to ask.

Mike

[Marbles]

Thanks Mike, I guess I can wait until he gets back.

I've waited this long  

To make sure I understand, I wire from the center contacts on the Switch, to another set of contacts on the switch.  Is that correct?

[tkp]

I don't think Brian have any problem with this because my pair was done without the toggle switch.  My friend's pair of RM40 has the toggle switch but it was bypassed from the factory.

[audiochef]

Marbles,
the switch solder joints are numbered 1-2-3-4-5-6.  With 1 inch wire, solder 1to 2 and 4to 5.
But ,keep in mind while doing it  this way,you'll no longer be able to biwire.

[Marbles]

Thanks