First Build - N3

gmurray618 · « **on:** 29 Mar 2013, 05:06 pm »

Here I go

This will be my first speaker build. I hope to document the N3 build as I go along and perhaps someone will not make whatever mistakes I'm bound to make. Any and all help, pointers, criticism and opinions are more than welcome. I'm off to Home Depot for MDF, glue and a circle jig. I planning on veneering (more learning). Brookside Veneers is just north of me so I thought I would go pick out wood that way. I'm sure I'll have questions but this community is so helpful, I fear no problem.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #1 on:** 29 Mar 2013, 06:52 pm »

Sounds good.

Nick77 · « **Reply #2 on:** 29 Mar 2013, 07:21 pm »

WoooHooo nothing like a trip to HD for MDF, be sure to wear a mask.

Congrats.........

jparkhur · « **Reply #3 on:** 30 Mar 2013, 01:39 am »

Feel free to ask questions and dig for our mistakes so you don't make them.

Captainhemo · « **Reply #4 on:** 30 Mar 2013, 05:33 am »

Looking forward to following your build. When you are all done , you are going to love the N3's, tey are wonderful .

-jay

gmurray618 · « **Reply #5 on:** 30 Mar 2013, 10:54 am »

Mask right! and I would not even have known I was being foolish.

Thanks

lacro · « **Reply #6 on:** 30 Mar 2013, 01:11 pm »

Looking forward to seeing your build. Keep those picture coming through the process!!

I do have one suggestion before you start "rippin-n-tearin" that MDF:
Cut the front and rear baffles 1/8" wider and longer than the enclosure plans. Also, cut the sides 1/8" longer. Cut their width to plans dimension. When you put the boxes together, you will leave 1/16" hanging over the top/sides.

This will allow you to remove this overhang using a flush trim bit in your router to get PERFECTLY square edges saving a lot of effort sanding and filling. I hope this makes sense....

Larry

gmurray618 · « **Reply #7 on:** 30 Mar 2013, 01:42 pm »

yes it does. a Sound and solid tip. Thanks.

gmurray618 · « **Reply #8 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 01:09 am »

OK. So I've finally gotten started. That entailed cleaning the garage and building a work table. Done.
The front and back panels got done first and I realized that using the T-square as a guide did not work so well for me - it bowed. Thanks again for the tip to over cut the front and back. Ripping freehand with the circular saw, going slowly and carefully worked better for me. I was thinking of renaming the thread "Mediation's on Citting a Straight Line". I got the left and right sides done as well. Just the first box so far. Slow and steady. I have less than 1mm or 1/32" gap on that long 42" cut so I'm feeling OK with that.

S Clark · « **Reply #9 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 02:36 am »

You're using a circular saw?? It's not easy to cut panels straight. Chances are, when you clamp up you will have some small gaps when fitting the panels together. If so, don't use wood glue, use Gorilla Glue, as it will expand and fill gaps up to 1/16". If those long cuts only have 1/32 variance, you've done a heck of a job. The G Glue is not as strong as wood glue, but plenty strong enough.
Scott

django11 · « **Reply #10 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 03:03 am »

You could use a straight edge clamped on the piece as a guide. Or glue a piece of masonite under a straight edge and cut it off once glued. The masonite will then be on your cut line.

Like this

Captainhemo · « **Reply #11 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 04:08 am »

Something like PL Premium might work well too if you are worried about gaps. It is pretty strong stuf, might even be stronger than wood glue ? If you do, try to deal with any excess that is squeezed out before it dries, the less you have to clean up after it cures the better.

You may also want to cut the top/bottom plates slightly wider than 8" too, then trim with the flush trim bit to get them perfectly flush with the side panels like you'll be doing with the front and rear baffles.

-jay

gmurray618 · « **Reply #12 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 02:50 pm »

Quote from: S Clark on 4 Apr 2013, 02:36 am

You're using a circular saw?? It's not easy to cut panels straight. Chances are, when you clamp up you will have some small gaps when fitting the panels together. If so, don't use wood glue, use Gorilla Glue, as it will expand and fill gaps up to 1/16". If those long cuts only have 1/32 variance, you've done a heck of a job. The G Glue is not as strong as wood glue, but plenty strong enough.
Scott

Yup, I'm using a good ol' circular saw.

Thanks Scott. I remember seeing the Gorilla Glue at H. Depot and I went for the classic Elmer's. That was before I made my first cut.

I added two sheets of 3/4 ply on top of the table and two roofing nails (behind the saw) to anchor the mdf board as i cut it. I have 3" lip around the table for clamping and I run the saw right down the middle.

django11, that's the setup I started with, but found the straight edge bowed as I cut. Since the first cuts were on the front and back and I doubled the recommended overhang I was in good shape - thanks again lacro, and Captainhemo I will defiantly do the same on the top and bottom.
Here is the worst of my gaps so far...

The credit card fits snugly into the gap so perhaps some sanding and the expanding glue will cover my inadequacies. There is a similar gap on the other side of this board. The other side board is quite a bit straighter.
Ohmmmm "Mediation's on Citting a Straight Line" Oohhhmmmmmm

Time for more cutting and checking out the G Glue and PL Premium.

gmurray618 · « **Reply #13 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 04:04 pm »

Quick question. What is the recommended material for the braces? wood, plywood?

Captainhemo · « **Reply #14 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 04:16 pm »

Quote from: gmurray618 on 4 Apr 2013, 04:04 pm

Quick question. What is the recommended material for the braces? wood, plywood?

more 3/4" MDF will work just fine. Cut all your internal braces from the same 6.5" strip(s) so yu have them all exactly the same width

-jay

nzone · « **Reply #15 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 07:50 pm »

Quote from: gmurray618 on 4 Apr 2013, 02:50 pm

The credit card fits snugly into the gap so perhaps some sanding and the expanding glue will cover my inadequacies. There is a similar gap on the other side of this board. The other side board is quite a bit straighter.
Ohmmmm "Mediation's on Citting a Straight Line" Oohhhmmmmmm

Time for more cutting and checking out the G Glue and PL Premium.

Kreg Rip-Cut guide cut straight and it has built-in measurement guide. It's not good for repetitive cuts for exact same dimension though. Invest in a Festool TS 55 plunge saw and the parallel guide -- mobile tablesaw

gmurray618 · « **Reply #16 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 08:34 pm »

I just checked out the Kreg Rip-Cut guide.

That would have made life a lot easer ! Oh-well. I just finished cutting the front, back and top for both boxes. on to the braces. Thanks Capt.

PDR · « **Reply #17 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 10:53 pm »

Every speaker project that I've built with MDF I've had the lengths
cut at Home Depot on the panel saw. I know that some have found they get
inconsistent cuts from the employees, but I have the secret to getting exact cuts.

If you go on a Wednesday morning as soon as they open your almost guaranteed
to find a couple of elderly gents looking after that section. If you explain to them
what your doing and supervise with the measuring they are usually going to take their
time and get it as accurate as you could need. Early mornings before the crowd arrives
is the best time, forget weekends, its a nut house then. I've built 6 projects over the
last few years and had very good fits because I took the time to work with them.

The cross cuts I use a radial arm saw, but could be done with a skil saw and you just
need a basic straight edge for those.

Its much easier lugging home the strips rather than full sheets as well.....

SteveRB · « **Reply #18 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 11:07 pm »

good point with home depot...

I am without shop space and table saw.

I personally found a local cabinet maker, I gave him my cut list (including holes and insets). He did them all on his CNC, cheap too. Explain what you are doing and you will usually get a discount...

Captainhemo · « **Reply #19 on:** 4 Apr 2013, 11:15 pm »

Quote from: SteveRB on 4 Apr 2013, 11:07 pm

good point with home depot...

I am without shop space and table saw.

I personally found a local cabinet maker, I gave him my cut list (including holes and insets). He did them all on his CNC, cheap too. Explain what you are doing and you will usually get a discount...

But then you miss out on the fun.... like cleanng up all that MDF dust