[lacro]

Danny/anyone,
 I am almost to the point of installing the crossovers and drivers in My XLS Encore build....

I have a question about damping material location in relation to the front baffle. I have searched all posts related to the subject, and see that it's suggested that when using No-Rez to keep the foam back 1" to 1-1/2" from the front baffle. However, I can't find any discussion about it being necessary to do the same when using fiberglass insulation as the damping material.

The boxes are lined with floor tiles:



1" fiberglass is glued to all panels except the front baffle and the area where the crossover will be.

Should I cut the fiberglass back 1" to 1-1/2" from the front baffle OR is this only necessary when using No-Rez?



Larry

[Captainhemo]

Hi Larry
I'd still leave that 1" - 1.5" gap  behind the baffle.  I think you  want a bit of space behind the driver.  Aslo,  if you are going to use  some stuffing behind the woofer after,  I'd reccomend  the acusa stuff over  the poly fill.   I changed out the poly fil  a while back for  an ounce of  acusta stuff  and it really impoved the bass response.  I did the same behind each  of the wooferes in  my N3 TL's and it   really made a   BIG difference.  It is   more expensive than   poly fill but  well worth it.  You can get a  1 lb bag for about $10 from PE

Just to let you  know, I did the  homemade no res in the N3's  too.  It worked   very well.  In the OB7's I'm building now,   I used no res  and  man,  was it ever easy to use.  Cut it on the bable saw and peel and sstick.   Very quick, very easy compared to cutting    all that tile and open cell faom  No contact cement either !   I used in the N3's.   It's  kind of  expensive but  saves a ton of time,  and as Danny points out, it  works better which is always a good thing

-jay

[Danny Richie]

What you want is to cover all of the walls, but you don't want the woofer to have to force air through a piece of foam or poly fill. And with No Rez being an inch thick if it were used right up to the front baffle edge then it would be right up on the woofer and it would inhibit the woofers movement.

You also want a clear path to the port.

So cover those walls, but don't over do it.   

[danny01]

I'm doing an N2x in a curved .50 PE cabinet. The crossovers are zip tied to peg boards. I have no rez installed in the front half portion of the cabinets so far. The corssover board is kind of big and will take  up the entire space of a vertical wall between the middle brace and the back of the cabinet. If I can use this whole portion of the cabinet wall to attach the crossover, do I need to add No rez to this area? If so, how can I do it?




I'm having trouble getting the images to show. If you right click on each of the broken photo icons above, and either open it in a new tab or copy and paste the URL you can see the images.

danny

[Danny Richie]

I am wondering if there is room in there for you to mount that to a side wall back there.

If a crossover is mounted to a wall then that added mass does a good job of controlling any resonance of that panel. Any other panel left bare cover it with No Rez.

[danny01]

The space is tight, but it can definitely fit. What is the best way to attach it?

If I can't get it on that wall, then I'll probably consider adding an extra pair of binding posts and putting the crossovers in a separate box or I'll have to redo the crossover layout on a smaller piece of pegboard.

This is my first DIY speaker so I appreciate the help Danny.

[Danny Richie]

I use sheet rock screws to attach the crossover board to the interior walls or floor. That way it can be removed if needed.