Given this is a build thread, I suppose I should back up slightly and fill-in a couple details of how I got to where I am now.
Most of the interior pieces of the Super V. The side panels are just 2x4 foot pieces of 3/4 and 3/8ths MDF.
Next is the prep for gluing up the coax baffles. The baffle is two 3/4" panels glued together to yield one 1.5 inch thick baffle. I decided to use a few dowels to keep the panels from slipping around during glue-up. I've done glue-ups in the past where the pieces tend to "travel" as I've tightened the clamps. That can be a real panicked mess. The dowels made the baffle glue-up uneventful...although is was still a mess, but a controlled one. One thing that helps me when doing a glue-up like this is to keep both pieces of the glue-up in very rough size and have one piece smaller than the other and ""inside" the larger piece. That way after the glue dries I have at least one edge that is clean, straight and square. I can use that edge on the table saw fence guide to cut the piece down to final size. Using a panel cutting jig on the table saw is also a BIG help to get perfectly square pieces.
This is a circle jig I rigged up. I found similar examples on the web and it seemed easy enough to build. The 1/4 inch steel rod cost me $5, the rest is scrap pieces. The OSB under the router will be the wood template I'll use to to shape the 4 side panels(two @3/4 & to @3/8 inch MDF) with a flush trim bit. OSB is cheap, flat, and holds a good sanded edge for template routering.
The sub boxes that attach to the sub baffle were next. When I make multiple shop-grade cabinet drawers, or in this case enclosures for the subs, I set up a simple perfectly square corner on my bench to brace the pieces square to each other. I then use a right angle clamp to position & secure the two sides flush with each other. Next comes a drill guide for the pilot hole, then glue & whatever screw I'm using. All of this is particularly needed when screwing-gluing MDF as it likes to split when screws are driven in the edges.
I used trim-head screws with an 1/8" pilot hole drilled the full length of the screw. Trim-heads work well as they don't force the MDF apart when driven home. I also tip just the very end of the screw with just a little toilet-bowl wax. It's cheap and very slippery and soft..easy to get on the screw and stays in place. The screws drive in super easy. And no splits! In addition, I use a small dremel tool mounted in a drill to prep a countersink hole for the screw head. The shape of the countersink hole mimics the trim-head screw. The smaller the countersink, the less repair work is needed later.
Finally, up to today at least, I started working on the template for the sides of the Super V. This is a 1:1 ARCH E sized (typical blueprint or architectural drawing size paper) printout that I'll use to make the 1/2" OSB template that I'll then use to shape the MDF side panels. I'm making a number of small changes to the shape of the sides. A number of the changes are discussed up-thread. I made the 1:1 PDF file of the sides way back in 2013 before the above discussion was done. I was using the free version of Sketchup 8 back then and there was a way to create 1:1 files directly. I think that option is long gone in the free version now(without printing out a dozen+ office sized sheets and taping them together). Though I don't have it, I think SU Layout does this now..in the paid version.
