Wiring a binding post

Gordy · « **Reply #20 on:** 27 Jun 2004, 03:43 am »

Carlman,

I recently ordered and received a Par-Metal series 20 desktop(?) case, I'd be interested as to why yours fell through? IAG has some really nice chassis's http://www.iagaudio.com/ , but they must be custom built, as I waited a good three weeks for delivery. They are very nice though, worth the wait!

Also, copper fasteners are available at Mcmaster-Carr, just do a search for 'ring terminals'. They are tin plated though....

Hope it helps, Gordy

JoshK · « **Reply #21 on:** 29 Jun 2004, 06:00 pm »

Found some solid copper 8awg O-rings for binding post. Could we get any better?

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Carlman · « **Reply #22 on:** 29 Jun 2004, 06:23 pm »

Quote from: Gordy

Carlman,

I recently ordered and received a Par-Metal series 20 desktop(?) case, I'd be interested as to why yours fell through? IAG has some really nice chassis's http://www.iagaudio.com/ , but they must be custom built, as I waited a good three weeks for delivery. They are very nice though, worth the wait!

Also, copper fasteners are available at Mcmaster-Carr, just do a search for 'ring terminals'. They are tin plated though....

Hope it helps, Gordy

Gordy,
I waited weeks for a quote... called once a week to get promised I'd have it that day or tomorrow... I finally cornered John and asked him how much... so, he quoted me $100 and said he'd make some drawings to be sure he understood what I wanted. I said fine... he was 99% sure he'd get me the drawings that day but the latest tomorrow. That was the week before last.... I felt certain I'd never hear from him again so, I called yesterday to ask but just decided to give up and cancel the order.. no apology, no explanation.... I figured he didn't want to do it. It was a custom size so, he had to think 'out of the box'

. I just wish he would've told me a month+ ago that he didn't want to do it instead of making me wait to deduct that on my own.

Edit... just thought of another thing... I wanted to use thicker metal than the standard and he couldn't figure out why. He couldn't understand why I'd want it so over-built and was against it. He recommended the standard. It's now more clear to me that he didn't want to build a custom box but I didn't pick up the cues...

I bought a case from Hugh in Australia.... I needed some good customer service as a relief to dealing with subpar-metal. Of course, it cost me a good bit more, the shipping is a killer... but, I'm getting exactly what I want/need and can deal with someone that's consistently reliable, fast, and courteous. It's worth it at twice the price.

(I think Par-metal would just shake their head in confusion if they saw one of Hugh's cases. I could use it as a jack-stand.)

So, that's the whole story. Not much to it.

Back to the binding post thread....
I found some copper ring terminals on Parts Express that might work...
These
And These

Dan Banquer · « **Reply #23 on:** 29 Jun 2004, 08:22 pm »

Hi Carl: Those will work if you are using 7-8 AWG wire. Do you have a crimper large enough to crimp for 7-8 AWG? Or will a bench vise do the job?
d.b.

Carlman · « **Reply #24 on:** 30 Jun 2004, 05:38 pm »

Quote from: Dan Banquer

Hi Carl: Those will work if you are using 7-8 AWG wire. Do you have a crimper large enough to crimp for 7-8 AWG? Or will a bench vise do the job?
d.b.

Hmm. Good question. And, no, I have no tool or vice that will accomplish the crimp.

I've decided to practice my original idea on my existing posts. I'll be drilling through the base of the threads, pulling the output leads through the hole, forming a loop with the copper, wrapping it around the post, and spot-soldering that wire into place.

I'll then sand the solder flat, apply some Pro-Gold and hope for the best. This will provide a direct connection from the output to my spades.

Using a ring terminal would be OK on the back of the binding post but doesn't accomplish the direct spade-to-ring connection. If I brought the ring terminal out of the case, I would have to devise a neat way to do that.... which is still possible but would require some tubing or something to cover the wires. Making it neat would cost a lot of time. I don't want wires to be seen....

Also, the ring terminals need to have the standard 5/16" ring size. It's tough to find those with anywhere between a 12-18 ga wire size. I could ream a smaller one out but, that reduces contact area.

How's that for ANALysis... ? I'd better get back to work... just thought I'd post more rambling thoughts.

JoshK · « **Reply #25 on:** 30 Jun 2004, 05:46 pm »

The ones I pointed out were 8awg 5/16" ring size. I had meant pulling the output wire through the case to make the ring on the outside against the spade. If I do this I will just drill a small hole next to the binding post and pull the output wire through, terminate it with the ring, slip it over the post and clamp down the spade against it with the bind post.

Carlman · « **Reply #26 on:** 30 Jun 2004, 06:41 pm »

Quote from: JoshK

The ones I pointed out were 8awg 5/16" ring size. I had meant pulling the output wire through the case to make the ring on the outside against the spade. If I do this I will just drill a small hole next to the binding post and pull the output wire through, terminate it with the ring, slip it over the post and clamp down the spade against it with the bind post.

Make sure you can completely unscrew the nuts on the posts. I can't on my Cardas'. Otherwise, there's no way to slip 'em over.

I think the rings you posted will work great but are un-coated. The ones at PE are gold-plated which is nice. The Cardas posts look like crap after a year. I wish I'd gotten the gold-plated now... and will be getting something that 'looks purdy' soon.

Gordy · « **Reply #27 on:** 30 Jun 2004, 09:08 pm »

Carlman,

So you're actually 'coring' through the threaded studs themselves or is the proposed hole directly to the side of the stud. Also, would it be possible to purdy up your current Cardas terminals by having them gold anodized or is that only do-able with alum.? Might make for a relatively inexpensive alt. to buying new/again!

My Par case was an off the shelf order, it still took 10 or so days to travel 126 mi., looks 'ok', but it's hidden/houses a power supply only.

Gordy

Carlman · « **Reply #28 on:** 1 Jul 2004, 02:05 am »

Coring, sort of.. I'll be drilling a hole through the actual binding post and as close to the base (point of compression) as possible. That way, the wire pops out of a hole just at the base of where the external cable connection takes place.

Then, I'll wrap the wire around the post at that point. So, there will be no way to see this at a glance. (Supposed) sonic benefit and stealth appeal in one solution.

I am not really happy about buying new posts. But, having them plated will be an endeavor that costs more than buying new. I'm still new to NC and finding people who are A, willing and B, capable of doing things slightly out of the norm has proven to be a brick wall many times for me.

Typical responses to various requests:
You want wut? Who is it for? Why would you do that? I could do it for $250 if you sent me an autocad drawing.