[HsvHeelFan]

Okay, I have a question about Active crossovers after searching around the Audio Circle for a couple of days.

I have a classic 2 channel stereo pre-amp that lacks built in Bass Management.

I'm thinking about adding an active crossover between my pre-amp (solid state) to split my line level pre-amp outputs to my current subwoofer (and future replacement subwoofer) and my main power amp.

It seems that options are:

MiniDSP

Velodyne SMS-1

Marchand XM9/XM44

Bryston 10-B Sub crossover.

a bunch of pro-audio things such as the Behringer CX-2310 or 2486 or the DBX Soundrack sound processors.

Frankly, the pro-audio things scare me a little bit.   Their specs are different than classic Home audio specs.

I'm leaning towards the MiniDSP.    The other alternative would be to purchase a Bryston 10B sub crossover on the used market.

Has anyone have experience with any of the above compared to the others?

I do NOT want this to devolve into an active vs. passive b*****fest.  If you haven't tried them, please don't respond.  I'm not interested in passive crossovers.

What I don't want is the active crossover to degrade the audio quality of my system. 

HsvHeelFan

[JerryLove]

I have experience with the 2496 and Super-X pro. Both of which would do the job, both of which are likely overkill, and both of which are in the list you've stated you want to avoid.

[HsvHeelFan]

JerryLove, I'm not necessarily opposed to those units, I just don't have any experience with pro-audio. 

I'll consider those as well.  I've got some jazz/rock&roll musician friends.  I'll see if any of them have one of those that I may be able to borrow for a testdrive.

HsvHeelFan

[rollo]

  Why do you need a crossover at all ? Try using a passive hi pass to the amps. Then adjust your sub to where it intergrates well in the room.  If you like the Behringer is great for the sub only. Not found of all going through it just the bass.
    We owned an older Bryston and was not pleased with it. The later models are better sonically not thin or bright at all. Have fun trying.


charles

[JerryLove]

  Why do you need a crossover at all ? Try using a passive hi pass to the amps. Then adjust your sub to where it intergrates well in the room.  If you like the Behringer is great for the sub only. Not found of all going through it just the bass.

Manually tuning the low-pass filter on the sub (assuming it has one) to match the (unadjustable) HP filter?

Isn't that really just making a crossover; the inexpensive but painful way?

You could accomplish the same thing with a y-cable, high-pass filters and low-pass filters; but with a more certain match.

Crossovers like the Super-X will also let you deal with phase issues and adjust gain (esp if passive sub with fixed-gain amps).

Obviously a DCX (which is overkill in this application) let's you change *everything*; including adjusting for phase delays and even tuning the actual sound of your drivers.

All that said: I'm not advocating them for this situation (wouldn't necessarily try to talk you out of it either). I think there's likely a non-pro solution which will fit your needs and be less hassle than the pro solutions (which, for example, have manual power switches)

And Rollo's suggestion certainly has the merit of being unobtrusive once configured.

[DustyC]

I use an XM44 in my bi-amped Maggie system. Does a great job integrating woofs and tweets. As far as strict subwoofer duty, I wouldn't use it. I think a better idea would be to use a powered sub with as many room tuning adjustments as possible. Maybe find one that has a mic and processing software to get the job done.
If I was in the market for a sub, that would be the main factor.
Good luck in your quest!

[HsvHeelFan]

Some of the replace subs that I'm looking at don't have the built in High Pass Filters.

That got me to thinking about if I could improve my system by not using the built-in High Pass Filter in my current subwoofer, at all.

Digging around on the web got me to thinking about measuring my room and seeing what the frequency response really is.

Crossovers/Processors like the MiniDSP with REW would allow me to tweak some of that (I think).  Although I'm not wild about  going Analog to Digital and back to Analog. 

The MiniDSP looks like it's $125 with another $10 for the plugin.  That's not a lot of money to see if I can get better, more detailed sound.

Although, I'm really happy with my system, I wonder if it could be better.

HsvHeelFan

[toddbagwell]

I use two of these in my system:

http://www.amazon.com/DBX-223-Stereo-Mono-Crossover/dp/B000Z89XP0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1357392651&sr=8-1&keywords=dbx+crossover


the mains run full range with the woofers and tweeters each having their own amp.

the second full range output from my preamp goes to the other crossover which sends the 45hz and below over to the subs.

I've been using this setup for ~2 years, nearly always on without a single problem.


hope this helps

todd

[jk@home]

I also use a DBX 223 (XLR version) to my sub amps (Yamaha P3500S pro amps). But I don't run the main signal through the crossover, so can't comment on the transparency other than the subs sound quiet and clean. The DBX will run fine off a consumer 2 volt signal strength, even with my preamp, which has no gain.

[mg3720]

I am using a dbx DriveRack PA+ to bi amp my Magnepan MG3.5’s.  It has a switch in the back to adjust the level between pro and consumer gear.  It is very flexible and I am still experimenting with it.

One thing that it did was to raise the noise floor.  I had a very minor ground loop hum that I did not even notice before adding the dbx.  The dbx brought it to my attention.  I fixed the ground loop.  Now the system is very quiet, but I still hear a slight hiss from those 3.5’s with the dbx when I put my ear up to them.

[kevin360]

I'm using a Bryston 10B Sub XO to redirect the lower bass away from my Magnepan 3.7s. In truth, the XO is redundant with respect to the subs, which have their own filters. Although I'm impressed with the seeming transparency of Bryston's active XO, Rollo's suggestion of a passive high pass to the amps is a thought that's been floating around in my head for a while - would be simpler (I went to a 6dB/oct slope for the high pass a while ago, and it's working a treat), effective and more transparent. I think I should make that my New Year's Resolution - done, it's on the list (the first step).

Sorry for that, but I hope it helped in some way. I want to emphasize that my 3.7s sound better without being asked to plumb the depths - whatever the XO may contribute to the sonic picture, it removes something far more objectionable to my ears and the noise floor is quite deep. It permits the use of a less potent amplifier, which opened the door to valves - a door I don't foresee closing any time soon. Like Rollo (and, I'm sure, many others), I'm just not certain the complexity of an active crossover is necessary - although, it is helpful to have the various adjustments when searching for the 'secret formula' for a successful transition.
 

[Carl V]

An Oldie but reasonable & functional enough for your "classic "2-ch stereo
http://www.audiocontrol.com/product.aspx?d_id=16463&p_id=171119&
http://rs.audiocontrol.com/company_38/RichterScaleIII_OM.pdf.pdf

Snell's Simople active once used in their high end Type A
http://new.audiogon.com/listings/snell-ec-300-active-x-over

Straight forward paradigm product
http://new.audiogon.com/listings/119134
http://new.audiogon.com/listings/119134
http://www.soundstage.com/revequip/frank10.htm

all the prior posts are likewise effective solutions.
Good luck.  Posting existing system spec's & needs
might be beneficial as well.

[tim92gts]

Not sure how committed you are to the current sub but i'm contemplating an amp with it's own DSP to power
a sub, something like a Crown XTi 2002 iirc.
This has a pass through for the other amp and lots of setup options.
The sub would then be unpowered.

The price of a pair of Bryston 10Bs would be a bit steep for me this year.

[HsvHeelFan]

At the moment,  I've got the preamp out going to the Velodyne sub inputs.

Output from the sub (switchable between crossovered or direct) goes to the Byston 4B-ST inputs.

The Bryston is driving my KEF Q70's full range (I'm not using the HPF in the sub since that's what is slowly dying) and I'm using the sub to just fill in the bottom in.  I've got the sub low pass filter set down around 40 Hz.  So, I'm not getting much subwoofer overlap with the KEF's.

I'm probably going to switch to an RCA Y cable coming out of my preamp and split the signal from the preamp to the Sub and the Bryston.

If I purchase a Bryston 10B subwoofer crossover, it'll be a used one and it would be something that I would consider as a long term investment.  My Bryston is 11 years old.  I really like the 20 year warranty on the Bryston analog products (I bought the 4B-ST new from a dealer in the Nashville area).

HsvHeelFan

[TF1216]

Wouldn't the Anti-mode 8033 be the perfect solution if an RCA Y cable is utilized?

http://www.dspeaker.com/en/products/anti-mode-8033.shtml