Caps and CD player (off topic)

MattCassidy · « **on:** 17 Jun 2004, 11:51 am »

Hi,

I have been reading with great interest all the talk of upgrading caps. I am new to DIY and electronics but am I to understand that it is possible to upgrade a CD player by changing some of the capcitors to better spec'ed ones? If this is the case how difficult would it be? And what sort of difference would it make?

TIA
MAtt

Luigi · « **Reply #1 on:** 17 Jun 2004, 09:06 pm »

If your CD player is not truly high end, and you don't want to spend too much, the best upgrade in my experience is to replace the crystal oscillator with a low jitter master clock. These are cheap to buy, a few hundred dollars in Aussie, and improve treble and bass extension, staging, imaging solidity and resolution of midrange detail (vocals will be easier to follow). No downside in my view. The only examples I have had experience with are LC Audio XO clocks (now up to version 3) which are available in Aussie via Soundlabsgroup, or some such. The only thing you must do before ordering is find out what frequency your crystal oscillator works at. There are sites on the net that offer this information, including the aforementioned.

While you're at it, check the op amps in the analogue output stage, and replace these with higher grade faster alternatives. This is another even less expensive expensive upgrade. After doing these two things, your $1000 player will sound like a $4000 player or thereabouts, and you will have spent about $400 (Australian). Then mess with caps!

Luigi · « **Reply #2 on:** 17 Jun 2004, 09:09 pm »

If your CD player is not truly high end, and you don't want to spend too much, the best upgrade in my experience is to replace the crystal oscillator with a low jitter master clock. These are cheap to buy, a few hundred dollars in Aussie, and improve treble and bass extension, staging, imaging solidity and resolution of midrange detail (vocals will be easier to follow). No downside in my view. The only examples I have had experience with are LC Audio XO clocks (now up to version 3) which are available in Aussie via Soundlabsgroup, or some such. The only thing you must do before ordering is find out what frequency your crystal oscillator works at. There are sites on the net that offer this information, including the aforementioned.

While you're at it, check the op amps in the analogue output stage, and replace these with higher grade faster alternatives. This is another even less expensive expensive upgrade. After doing these two things, your $1000 player will sound like a $4000 player or thereabouts, and you will have spent about $400 (Australian)

. Then start messing with caps!

MattCassidy · « **Reply #3 on:** 17 Jun 2004, 09:36 pm »

Thanks Luigi!

most appreciated i will look into this for sure. The more I read about these Aksa and the GK-1 which I have just ordered the more I think maybe my other stuff may need an upgrade as well. I will wait and see how it sounds, but you are bang on spent about $1100 AU on the CD it is an Arcam 73T

Cheers
Matt
PS What kind of name is Luigi for a kiwi?

rookster · « **Reply #4 on:** 17 Jun 2004, 09:48 pm »

Matt,

I upgraded the clock in my Marantz CD63 SE about 18months ago with a unit from Soundlabs. It was the LC Audio XO clock with power supply, but it was only Mk1 I believe. Big difference. There is my testimonial on the Soundlab website. It cost about $325 I believe. It cost more now, but should be better. Just be very careful installing it.

Luigi · « **Reply #5 on:** 17 Jun 2004, 09:58 pm »

Hey Matt

As a matter of fact, I own AKSA 55 Nirvana Plus and GK-1 manual, updated with DACT pot. The combination is sensational, comfortably the best, most natural and well defined amplification I have owned. Particularly the amp, which truly came alive with the Nirvana Plus upgrade.

The GK-1 I have always rated highly, but it seemed slightly veiled. Not until I installed the DACT pot was its true potential unleashed. Oh, and a bit of tube rolling too. Now the combo is killer, ticking all my boxes. I never use my homebuilt sealed sub (thanks to Nick at LambdaAcoustics, for the driver) anymore for music, only for film.

The Aspen gear is very quiet, ultrareliable too, in my experience. It gets an A grade recommendation from me. Class A, with a bullet for value.

PS The name is from varsity. First few letters of surname are LOUI

Malcolm Fear · « **Reply #6 on:** 18 Jun 2004, 01:40 am »

Hi Luigi
I too have an AKSA 55 and GK-1 with DACT pot.
I turned the DACT pot into fake shunt mode, using a Riken Ohm resistor. It actually improved the sound.

What tubes have you tried in the GK-1? What did you end up using?

regards

Rocket · « **Reply #7 on:** 18 Jun 2004, 02:02 am »

Hi Matt,

Try a tent clock. Here is guido's email address for you:

[email protected]

it costs about $120us which is cheaper than the lc audio clock.

i have installed a g& d clock (no longer made) in my cheap pioneer pds 507 and it would beat many stock cd's on the market.

regards

rod

Occam · « **Reply #8 on:** 18 Jun 2004, 01:50 pm »

Well... I'm not going to enter into a debate as to which is more cost effective, changing clocks or other component upgrades. But I will suggest a method to determine just how difficult it is to replace capacitors (or other components-

1. Take your pick between solder sucker and solder wick
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=10836&start=10

2. Scour your neighborhood prior to trash pickup and liberate a old PC from the curb. Yank out the power supply and remove its printed circuit board.. (Don't plug it in!) The power supply board will usually have a bunch of radial, throgh hole, electrolytic capacitors.

3. Using your preferred wick or sucker, and soldering iron, remove a cap. Resolder the cap back in. Repeat as needed to judge how easy or difficult this is. If you find yourself lifting the printed circuit track on the first go round, you need more practice.

This should give you a really good idea as to how easy it is for you to physically remove and replace caps on a cd played without jeporadizing your actual components.