[Doublej]

I am looking for suggestions with what to do regarding power conditioning or surge protection for my TV room. It has the following gear; right now it's all connected into a simple power strip:

1. LCD television
2. Tivo
3. DVD player
4. Two channel receiver with a pair of speakers
5. Cable modem
6. Wireless router (uses a wall wart)
7. Cordless phone (uses a wall wart)

Would you:

A. Leave as is
B. Buy a power conditioner and plug everything into it
C. Buy a power conditioner and plug 1-4 into it and plug 5-7 into a power strip or surge protector.
D. Buy a surge protector and plug everything into it.
E. Something else.

My goals are to protect the AV equipment and not degrade video/audio. Should i care about protecting a decade old modem, router, and cell phone? Something tells me that these should be protected not because I care about the devices but because protecting them with a surge protector or power conditioner might reduce fire risk in the event of a power spike.

[Atlplasma]

I use an Axxium power conditioner with my Pioneer plasma. It has a great picture to start with, but the Axxium yields even better black levels.

[Speedskater]

I would do:
E]  Get a whole house surge protector and leave the rest as is.

[rodge827]

This is what I'm using on my house and system with very good results.
Environmental Potentials 2050, 2750 on panel box, 2450 on gear.

http://ep2000.com/index.php?page=industrial

http://ep2000.com/uploads/EP_Ground%20Filter.pdf

The round silver colored piece attached to the panel box is the EP 2050 which is used to isolate it from the rest of the world.
The black box attached to the wall is EP 2750 used to filter any ground noise.



This unit isolates the system from the rest of the house.


Good luck

[Speedskater]

Do the "EP" products have "UL" stickers?

[rodge827]

Do the "EP" products have "UL" stickers?

Not sure if they are. Click on the links and read away.
That question could be better answered by Doug Joseph at EP.
All of the literature that I have is in a file cabinet in my attic.
90*+ temps and high humidity today so, I'm not goin' up there.
Most of EP's business is geared to the large commercial market.
The residential stuff are smaller versions of the same products, and priced accordingly.

Chris
 

[Speedskater]

I read the links, that's way I asked.
They list some of the standard's numbers,  but nothing about certified testing.

[rodge827]

I read the links, that's way I asked.
They list some of the standard's numbers,  but nothing about certified testing.

I was able to snap this shot of the 2050 and it looks like they are UL tested. 




EP is a serious company and I'm sure the 2750 and 2450 are equally tested.

Chris

[Speedskater]

It's good to see the "UL" sticker.  Some of the other small brands of AC power line products sold to the hi-fi market don't meet the electrical codes, let alone pass a safety test.

[pansixt]

I am looking for suggestions with what to do regarding power conditioning or surge protection for my TV room. It has the following gear; right now it's all connected into a simple power strip:

1. LCD television
2. Tivo
3. DVD player
4. Two channel receiver with a pair of speakers
5. Cable modem
6. Wireless router (uses a wall wart)
7. Cordless phone (uses a wall wart)

Would you:

A. Leave as is
B. Buy a power conditioner and plug everything into it
C. Buy a power conditioner and plug 1-4 into it and plug 5-7 into a power strip or surge protector.
D. Buy a surge protector and plug everything into it.
E. Something else.

My goals are to protect the AV equipment and not degrade video/audio. Should i care about protecting a decade old modem, router, and cell phone? Something tells me that these should be protected not because I care about the devices but because protecting them with a surge protector or power conditioner might reduce fire risk in the event of a power spike.

Doublej
I have the configuration "C" with a Furman conditioner, and 5-7 into an UPS (battery backup/surge device).
Works for me. I also have a very good earth ground for power, to which I have co-bonded my other utilities.

Speedskater's configuration "E" would be a very good idea as well I think.
James

[jarcher]

I'd also suggest the whole home surge as well as a first line of defense, even if you've got to pay for the installation (quick job). 

I wanted the EP products, but ever since audiophiles claimed that the 2050 not only protects but also makes your gear sound better prices went through the roof.  I think something like $700-$800 if memory serves me right. Even though I've dropped more than that on individual components, I just thought the price was excessive & refused.

Ended up instead getting this from home depot for under $70:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-202800798/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=whole+home+surge&storeId=10051#.UEQL31R40ZY 

Be advised that any of these is unlikely to survive a really serious surge, so having something at the gear end to double down is probably still worth it.

I like Furman products for the money. You can get the PST-8D, an 8 outlet strip w/ 4 dedicated digital outlets, for about $153 delivered from Amazon. The non "digital" one is even cheaper.  All outlets are isolated & have line filtration & surge protection. 

If you want more outlets & surge arresting for cable / telephone, then the DM 15i is a good choice - and it's got displays to monitor your voltage + amp draw from the things plugged into it.  I connect everything in the HT basement except for the power amps into one.  I've never felt that it's gotten in the way of the sound.  These are $530 on Amazon, but I've been offered one new from a dealer for $475 - so you just have to ask!

For the gear you've described I would start w/ the CHP whole home protector - which will protect EVERYTHING - then the Furman PST-8D for all the gear you've listed.
Hope that helps!

[john dozier]

Go to the Brickwall surge protector website. Read their white papers. Then make a decision. I find their products to be the best out there and not really expensive. Regards

[Wayner]

Get it here: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=125-142

[PSB Guy]

BrickWall, SurgeX and ZeroSurge all use the same technology, I don't think you can go wrong with any of them. I have a SurgeX SA-966, works great.

Cornelis

[Speedskater]

The leading expert in the field, Henry W. Ott, recommends the "Series Mode Surge Protectors" made by BrickWall, SurgeX and ZeroSurge.
"Series Mode Surge Protectors" are only for point of use (not whole house) and are rather expensive.

http://www.hottconsultants.com/resources.html

[Doublej]

Regarding BrickWall, SurgeX and ZeroSurge I can't find anything on their websites that speaks to their equipment protection policies. Do they have them like the APC, Furman, Panamax, et al do?

[DaveC113]

I just got a SurgeX unit, I recently opened it up to replace the PC, here are my thoughts on it from this thread:

http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=108674.new#new

I took off the SurgeX cover to replace the PC with a 12g mil spec cable I built.

It looks ok inside, but there are a lot of issues. First, steel connectors... there are quite a few, and a crimp type splice connector with a steel blade on the incoming neutral wire to couple it to the rest of the internal wiring. There are steel spade connectors going to and from the PCBs and power switches. All these need to go eventually... The receptacles used internally are mediocre and plated, these will need to be replaced with better units. Also, most of the receptacles are switched, which is feature I am going to eliminate by bypassing the power switch so the unit is always on while it is plugged in. There are also some passive parts that could be upgraded. Wires are PVC insulted copper, typical cheap hook up wire which could be replaced with mil spec wire without it costing much $.

Overall, I think it is a decent unit but maybe not suited for really picky types, which you probably are if you are reading this forum... it should be interesting to upgrade the connectors, receptacles and internal wiring and see what kind of improvements it will make...

[rodge827]

Do the "EP" products have "UL" stickers?

Although I posted a picture of the EP 2050 with the UL sticker, here is a response that I got from EP when inquiring about the subject...

Chris,

Yes, EP is fully listed and certified to UL1449 3rd Edition. However, in 2011 Environmental Potentials decided to switch from UL to ETL. With more than 30,000 people in 1,000 locations throughout 100 countries, Intertek is the premier laboratory to ensure product safety and quality. Intertek offers the ETL mark and tests to UL1449 3rd Edition. The ETL mark is the fastest growing mark in North America and Environmental Potentials is proud to label its products with ETL. 

Both UL and ETL are Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories. There is no difference except we had our testing done with ETL because the customer service and pricing is more business friendly.

We are listed under both surge suppression and EMI Filtration. We are also tested and listed under CAN/CSA-22.2 No. 8 for Electromagnetic Interference Filters.  This is the testing that proves what most audiophiles already understand and that is that EP eliminates noise from the line. 

You can view our listing by following the link below: http://etlwhidirectory.etlsemko.com//WebClients/ITS/DLP/products.nsf/vwSearch?SearchView&Query=FIELD%20ListHead%20Contains%20Environmental%20Potentials%20or%20FIELD%20CatCode%20Contains%20Environmental%20Potentials%20or%20FIELD%20Title%20Contains%20Environmental%20Potentials%20or%20FIELD%20ProductInformation%20Contains%20Environmental%20Potentials&SearchOrder=1&SearchMax=1000&SearchWV=FALSE&SearchThesaurus=FALSE&SearchFuzzy=FALSE

I attempted to follow your link and post directly on the site but I am not a registered user and the registration link says that no new registration is available at this time. Perhaps you can let everyone on the board know that yes EP products are completely listed.

Respectfully,

Roy Bettencourt

Director of Distributor Relations

Environmental Potentials

Office: 800.500.7436

Cell: 775.250.4177

 

[Doublej]

I called Brickwall and they said that they do not provide a connected equipment warranty like some of their competitors. 

[Doublej]

In the end I went with a variant of Wayner's suggestion. I got an 8 outlet Tripp Lite Isobar. I'll get it all hooked up over the weekend. I got it from Amazon as it was significantly cheaper than Parts Express.