DIY Loudspeaker Pics

jeffh · « **Reply #20 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 03:20 am »

Here are mine.

GR Research X-LS

Martello w/ Fountek FR88EX

Pensil P70.3 w/ Markaudio CHP 70

mgalusha · « **Reply #21 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 03:46 am »

Quote from: JoshK on 10 Aug 2012, 02:01 am

Echo John's curiousity.

Quote from: nullspace on 10 Aug 2012, 01:50 am

Very nice, Mike. I hope you'll post updates as you go along. I'm completely intrigued by the TPL-150H and have only just barely managed not to get myself a pair for testing. I'll be very curious to see how they work out for you. In particular, how horizontal directivity matches up with a 15" direct radiator.

Thanks gents. Well, I've had them running for a couple of weeks and think I'm pretty close on the crossover settings. I am quite happy with them and I like the Beyma's a lot. Overall the speakers seem more sensitive to placement that my Abbey's, likely because they will play lower. I am still using 5 subs to even out the room modes. I am crossing them over at about 1200Hz. This is where the JBL's start becoming directional and also where the Beyma's become flat, they roll off starting about 1100 with a minimum suggested frequency of 700Hz. One thing that is nice, the impedance of the Beyma is nearly perfectly flat from 500Hz to 20kHz, so not much need for notch filters to deal with driver resonances and horn interactions.

Oddly enough I moved my listening chair up about 14 inches from where I prefer it with the Abbey's, even though these are larger speakers I prefer the sound a bit closer.

Like anything else they are not for everyone, certainly not small and narrow like the current fashion but if one wants to feel the impact of say a snare getting hit hard, these will do it. They seem really good a subtle details as well and I've actually begun to wonder what to do with the Abbey's.

The Beyma's are pretty flat to 23kHz, so they have more of a sense of airy spaciousness than the Abbey's do, kinda nice.

I'm pulling the drivers out in the morning tho and the cabinets are heading over to Ruben for one of his killer paint jobs, so hopefully they will sound as good as they will soon look.

mike

nullspace · « **Reply #22 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 02:53 pm »

Quote from: mgalusha on 10 Aug 2012, 03:46 am

Like anything else they are not for everyone, certainly not small and narrow like the current fashion but if one wants to feel the impact of say a snare getting hit hard, these will do it.

There's no substitute for displacement, that's for sure.

Sounds like you're biamp'ing and using active crossovers -- is that correct?

Regards,
John

poseidonsvoice · « **Reply #23 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 02:59 pm »

Quote from: nullspace on 10 Aug 2012, 02:53 pm

There's no substitute for displacement, that's for sure.

Sounds like you're biamp'ing and using active crossovers -- is that correct?

Regards,
John

He has separate amps for all the subs. He uses a passive crossover for the mains, and lets it just run free. He uses only a low pass with his Behringer dcx for the subs. The behringer dcx is not in line with the main amps. Right?

Anand.

Jazzman53 · « **Reply #24 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 05:10 pm »

Here's one of my hybrid electrostats and ripole subs. The link is to my blog with build photos.
http://jazzman-esl-page.blogspot.com/

mgalusha · « **Reply #25 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 06:57 pm »

Quote from: poseidonsvoice on 10 Aug 2012, 02:59 pm

He has separate amps for all the subs. He uses a passive crossover for the mains, and lets it just run free. He uses only a low pass with his Behringer dcx for the subs. The behringer dcx is not in line with the main amps. Right?

Anand is correct.

The preamp feeds a modified Behringer DCX 24/96. Three of the channels are summed and fed to 3 GR/Rythmik subs with PEQ370 plate amps, each has slightly different levels/eq/filters to provide smoothing. The other two channels feed a pair of Hypex NC400's that feed a pair of sealed subs in really old, crappy cabinets, using Peerless XXLS nomex drivers. These act as stands for the mains and are configured in stereo, not summed and fill in the bottom octave of the mains and also help with the floor bounce suck out. Search for Wayne Parhams "flanking subs", lots of great info to be found. The main amps are not run through the DCX, they run full range off of the main (balanced) preamp outputs.

The current stand/sub cabinets are going to be replaced once of these days with some that will match the width of the mains and have dual, physically coupled, opposing drivers. I have all the materials, just need the time.

@Jazzman - I have see your blog before, those are truly a labor of love and a stunning achievement IMO.

mike

A picture of the whole mess, heavy on the mess.

poseidonsvoice · « **Reply #26 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 07:00 pm »

Quote from: mgalusha on 10 Aug 2012, 06:57 pm

A picture of the whole mess, heavy on the mess.

But that mess sounds so good

Anand.

Nick77 · « **Reply #27 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 09:51 pm »

Perfect spot to throw in my recent JBL 2226H build. The Pi4 with upgraded JBL and B&C DE250 drivers.

Those Beyma's look really impressive.

Ericus Rex · « **Reply #28 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 10:16 pm »

Quote from: Jazzman53 on 10 Aug 2012, 05:10 pm

Here's one of my hybrid electrostats and ripole subs. The link is to my blog with build photos.
http://jazzman-esl-page.blogspot.com/

Very nice!

Jazzman53 · « **Reply #29 on:** 10 Aug 2012, 10:38 pm »

Thanks all,
DIY hybrid electrostats are fairly inexpensive too. I have about $1K in mine, including the DCX-2496 digital crossover. The cabinets/frames were more time consuming than most people would endure so I'm drawing up a simpler-to-build version of the beam-splitter design to post on my website. The new version has same woofer & stat panel but is 1/2" shorter with 1/2" less depth and 7/8" less width--- should be slim and sexy with jaw-dropping fidelity.

Ericus Rex · « **Reply #30 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 01:23 am »

Great blog, Jazzman. You are the Big Kahuna!

56oval · « **Reply #31 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 01:49 am »

Heres my project on day it might get finished

Its going to active powered by 300B SET's and a push pull GU50 mono's for the 15" drivers

Cheers

JoshK · « **Reply #32 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 01:52 am »

What B+ are you planning for the Gu50 PPs?

56oval · « **Reply #33 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 01:58 am »

Quote from: JoshK on 11 Aug 2012, 01:52 am

What B+ are you planning for the Gu50 PPs?

HI
My mates doing the circuit so far he's tested 400V and he's going to try up to 750V . I'll let you know once he's finalised the circuit .

Cheers

JoshK · « **Reply #34 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 01:39 pm »

From what I read they like the higher B+.

WireNut · « **Reply #35 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 04:28 pm »

Awesome DIY projects.
I'm building a new loudspeaker system but here is my current DIY setup.

sts9fan · « **Reply #36 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 04:34 pm »

Those look nice. Tell us about them.

WireNut · « **Reply #37 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 04:47 pm »

MTM's on the top with sea's drivers. Swan W12's on the bottom in old diy cabinets.
I just started on a new push push cabinet construction for the W12's. The current box was
not designed for them but does well.

WireNut · « **Reply #38 on:** 11 Aug 2012, 05:14 pm »

Plans for the new push pull boxes for the Swan W12 drivers.

WireNut · « **Reply #39 on:** 12 Aug 2012, 04:25 am »

You guy's are awesome.
I would love to hear/see them all someday.
All of you have brought me new inspiration for building my new project.
Keep up the excellent work. My passion for DIY is at 200% thanks to you all.
Keep the pics coming and, keep on keeping on.

Steve.