[gregcss]

When the mini fridge stops its cooling job the audio cuts out. Is there a solution?

[tabrink]

Since we can assume your fridge is a 120v load Dedicated circuit on opposite phase should do the trick! 

[Big Red Machine]

When the mini fridge stops its cooling job the audio cuts out. Is there a solution?

Leave the door open?

[decal]

Get rid of it?

[Æ]

When the mini fridge stops its cooling job the audio cuts out. Is there a solution?

More details would certainly be helpful.
I'm guessing that your 'audio' is plugged into the same circuit or outlet as the refrigerator?
Get and use a line filter, filtered power strip, surge protector for your 'audio' whatever your 'audio' may be.

[gregcss]

More details would certainly be helpful.
I'm guessing that your 'audio' is plugged into the same circuit or outlet as the refrigerator?
Get and use a line filter, filtered power strip, surge protector for your 'audio' whatever your 'audio' may be.

The fridge and electronics are in the same room but on opposite sides and do not share the same outlet but probably the same circuit. The electronics are plugged into a Belkin PF60 which is plugged into the wall outlet. While playing audio (music, TV, or movies) and when the fridge turns off, the audio that is being played stops coming out of the speakers for about 1-2 seconds.

[Speedskater]

Really it's a "Snubber Capacitor" that's needed. Someone posted this on another forum:

Snubber Capacitors

While I'm a strong proponent of power conditioners for A/V applications,
if the issue you want to address is simply that 'popping' and it is from your furnace motor, you'd best be served by addressing it at the source, by snubbing your furnace motor/relay directly (it should already have a RC snubber, but it could be faulty, or the installing personnel for your furnace could be clowns)
Such as the Mallory/CDE QuenchArc snubbers -
http://www.mouser.com/catalog/629/660.pdf
http://www.cde.com/catalogs/Q-QRL.pdf

[rollo]

Yes, install a dedicated circuit or just use another outlet. Or just unplug the Fridge when listening. It will stay cool if door is not opened.



charles

[Tone Depth]

It seems to me that your surge protector may be doing its job, and protecting your audio equipment from the surge generated each time your fridge shuts off.

The fridge and electronics are in the same room but on opposite sides and do not share the same outlet but probably the same circuit. The electronics are plugged into a Belkin PF60 which is plugged into the wall outlet. While playing audio (music, TV, or movies) and when the fridge turns off, the audio that is being played stops coming out of the speakers for about 1-2 seconds.

[Æ]

Really it's a "Snubber Capacitor" that's needed.

You "really" don't know what's needed until you investigate, until you look at the power when the refrigerator turns on and off.
A refrigerator compressor will throw more onto the AC line than just a simple pop.

http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf

[Æ]

It seems to me that your surge protector may be doing its job, and protecting your audio equipment from the surge generated each time your fridge shuts off.

Wrong assumption.

Your typical surge component consisting of a Varistor or Varistors shunts surges away, it doesn't interrupt the circuit.

[richidoo]

If you still use the Anthem receiver shown in your published system, it might have "smarts" to pause audio when it senses high/low voltage. Or the player could be doing the same.

Test if stereo and fridge are on the same breaker by shutting them both off, switch off the breaker to the stereo, try turning stereo and fridge both back on. You can also use the extension cord to move the CDP to a different circuit to determine if it is the causing the dropout. Knowing what is really happening will help you fix it.

If you can't change the wiring due to apartment or budget constraints, then a simple solution might be to run the receiver with a extension cord to a different circuit, or move the fridge to a different location in the house?  I know an extension cord is audiophile taboo, but better than dropouts every 7 minutes.... 

If you can change the wiring, do as tabrink suggests, run your stereo on a dedicated power line that is on the opposite leg from the fridge. By that he means that the 240V utility service comes in on two opposite polarity 120V legs, which are added together to make 240V for elec. stove, dryer, AC. 120V lines use one or the other leg. The legs alternate in position in the breakerbox as you go down the row of breakers on one side. All stereo outlets should be on the same leg (same polarity AC.) Putting the noisy 120V appliances on the other leg is a good trick for improving power quality to the stereo. There are some good posts about this on AC if you search for them.

Good luck Greg!

[Speedskater]

You "really" don't know what's needed until you investigate, until you look at the power when the refrigerator turns on and off.
A refrigerator compressor will throw more onto the AC line than just a simple pop.
http://www.hagtech.com/pdf/snubber.pdf

The pop is never a simple pop!  A switch contact arc act's as a wide band spark gap radio transmitter.  I would still go with the above "Snubber Capacitor", although installing it will be tricky.

The Jim Hagerman paper is about a audio amplifier's rectifier circuit's diodes.

[cheap-Jack]

Hi.

When the mini fridge stops its cooling job the audio cuts out. Is there a solution?

It sounds like yr audio is sharing the SAME powerline of yr frige. It sounds like yr electric panel is not providing enough currents for the entire household. Guessing only.

The cooling compressor of the frige sounds like very old & low efficient taking a lot of current when working & draws down the line voltage. When the compressor cuts off, its power consumption drops & the line voltage swing backs to normal.

This wing-back-to-normal voltage can be viewed by yr audio system operating at the SAME low line voltage of the frige, as a 'surge'. Such 'surge' can trigger on the proctective circuit of yr audio amp which cuts it out.

Basing on above assumption, an efficient dedicated poweline surge protector should be added to power yr audio system.

c-J

[Æ]

The pop is never a simple pop!  A switch contact arc act's as a wide band spark gap radio transmitter.  I would still go with the above "Snubber Capacitor", although installing it will be tricky.

The Jim Hagerman paper is about a audio amplifier's rectifier circuit's diodes.

My point with linking the article, is that you just don't throw a snubber into a circuit and expect it to perform miracles. The snubber has to be optimised for the application, regardless.  The article is applicable to many power supply circuits, not just those found in audio amplifiers.

[Æ]

The pop is never a simple pop!

Exactly what I said.

"A refrigerator compressor will throw more onto the AC line than just a simple pop."