If smoke comes out is it bad? - Strata Mini's

django11 · « **Reply #20 on:** 12 May 2012, 01:40 pm »

I hope the OP won't mind if I hop in here to get some advice on a similar problem.

I think I blew a tweeter in my N3s (probably through an improper use of a battery supply on my Virtue 2.1 ?). I am definitely getting an unpleasant squawking out of the tweeter. How do I ascertain that it is caused by the tweeter and not the crossover? The ohm meter test?

Danny Richie · « **Reply #21 on:** 12 May 2012, 03:34 pm »

Quote from: django11 on 12 May 2012, 01:40 pm

I hope the OP won't mind if I hop in here to get some advice on a similar problem.

I think I blew a tweeter in my N3s (probably through an improper use of a battery supply on my Virtue 2.1 ?). I am definitely getting an unpleasant squawking out of the tweeter. How do I ascertain that it is caused by the tweeter and not the crossover? The ohm meter test?

Crossover parts rarely ever fail. Check the tweeter with an ohm meter and see what you get.

django11 · « **Reply #22 on:** 13 May 2012, 02:22 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 12 May 2012, 03:34 pm

Crossover parts rarely ever fail. Check the tweeter with an ohm meter and see what you get.

I am not very tech savvy. I have one of these multimeters, what should I set it to?

HAL · « **Reply #23 on:** 13 May 2012, 02:37 am »

Set the indicator to the 200 ohm scale (the Omega symbol) and measure between the terminals of the tweeter with the probes.

Post the measurement and will give an idea of what is going on.

django11 · « **Reply #24 on:** 13 May 2012, 02:41 am »

Thanks for the reply!. It gives me: 1. Which is the same reading I get when I am not connected to anything.

HAL · « **Reply #25 on:** 13 May 2012, 02:48 am »

That probably means the tweeter is open circuit and not working.

django11 · « **Reply #26 on:** 13 May 2012, 03:05 am »

Quote from: HAL on 13 May 2012, 02:48 am

That probably means the tweeter is open circuit and not working.

Thanks.

django11 · « **Reply #27 on:** 13 May 2012, 01:56 pm »

Once Danny chimes in here I'll order a tweeter (there are two models on the GR site, I bought the N3 kit about 2 years ago, which one do I get?).

I would like to make sure I understand how I blew the tweeter. This is what I think caused it: I have a Virtue 2.1 amp that I have been using with batteries after I got a "dongle" (is it a soft start dongle?) from Virtue. I would get a loud popping if I did not power up both pre amp and amp in very close succession. Finally when I inquired Jason at Virtue suggested I power up the pre amp first. This effectively took care of the problem but I suspect that the loud popping was when my tweeter fried. Yes ?

avahifi · « **Reply #28 on:** 13 May 2012, 02:37 pm »

General system start up advice:

Always turn your power amplifier on last (wait 30 seconds before turning everything else on) and turn your power amplifier off first (and wait 30 seconds before shutting down everything else.

This will prevent your power amplifier from being on to amplify any possible on or off surges or transients from the equipment ahead of it.

If your small signal equipment is protected by on and off mute time delay relays (as all AVA equipment is), this practice is not absolutely necessary, but it is a good save your system habit to get into anyway.

Regards,

Frank Van Alstine

Hank · « **Reply #29 on:** 14 May 2012, 03:03 pm »

Guys, referring to my Focal tweeter example above, if you can physically see the small guage voice coil wires that connect to the tweeter's terminals, the "open" (wire melted in two) may be visible, and therefore, repairable. If the open is in the voice coil, then the tweeter is a paper weight.

sandbagger · « **Reply #30 on:** 15 May 2012, 04:05 am »

If Danny doesnt have any more tweeters for the Mini's I might still have some, need to look through the box.

Are you going to need 1 or 2?

Madera59 · « **Reply #31 on:** 15 May 2012, 05:10 am »

Quote from: sandbagger on 15 May 2012, 04:05 am

If Danny doesnt have any more tweeters for the Mini's I might still have some, need to look through the box.

Are you going to need 1 or 2?

Thank you for the offer.... I believe i may be looking for two... Are there any suggestions as to what I should have for "spare" parts? I am generally know to keep my gear for a very long time.... this little oops by my gal... is not the norm ...

thanks again

Madera59 · « **Reply #32 on:** 22 May 2012, 12:46 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 9 May 2012, 09:45 pm

Take the back of the speaker off to access the upper drivers.

Disconnect the tweeter and mid panel and check them with an ohm meter.

Let me know what you get.

Hi , apologies for taking so long to provide all the information you asked for... now tested both speakers - tweeters - first speaker OL , Mid range 3.O Ohms. NEW info : took out amp and looked over crossover board - without removing it.... no visual indication of overheating or damage (although I could not see the complete crossover board..... tested wires from tweeter to crossover board - OL reading. Tested mid range wires back to crossover 6.1 ohms.

tested second speaker OL on tweeter, BUT wires back to crossover board 6.0 Ohms... haven't removed the mid range yet....

Does this help?

regards,

Michael

Danny Richie · « **Reply #33 on:** 22 May 2012, 03:09 am »

Sounds like dead tweeters.

Madera59 · « **Reply #34 on:** 22 May 2012, 04:13 am »

Quote from: Danny Richie on 22 May 2012, 03:09 am

Sounds like dead tweeters.

Thanks for the confirmation.... so the next question.... are there any available? I've appreciated the assistance.

Last question - Ignorance is not always a good thing... but I am showing mine: testing the wires that go from the tweeters ( with them removed) back to the crossover boards.... one speaker tests OL and the second speaker tests 6.1 ohms....shouldn't they both show the same value?

HAL · « **Reply #35 on:** 22 May 2012, 03:06 pm »

Yes, they should both be the same measurements.

On the speaker with the open measurement back to the board, check the resistance (or continuity) on the wires themselves. Possibly one is broken and open. If the wires are good, then something else is open circuit.

Danny Richie · « **Reply #36 on:** 22 May 2012, 03:30 pm »

Quote from: Madera59 on 22 May 2012, 04:13 am

Thanks for the confirmation.... so the next question.... are there any available? I've appreciated the assistance.

Last question - Ignorance is not always a good thing... but I am showing mine: testing the wires that go from the tweeters ( with them removed) back to the crossover boards.... one speaker tests OL and the second speaker tests 6.1 ohms....shouldn't they both show the same value?

Sounds like a resistor is also bad.

gamblingman · « **Reply #37 on:** 24 Jul 2012, 03:03 am »

I have the exact same problem with my Strata Minis, I had it hooked up to my IPOD, and it wasn't working at all, so it pulled the plug on the IPOD a few times, got high pitched feedback and smoke from both of the tweeters. They don't seem to work at all, though the planars seem to work fine. I will pull them and test them with an OHM meter. What measurement am I looking for? Also, does anyone have replacements???

Danny Richie · « **Reply #38 on:** 24 Jul 2012, 02:42 pm »

Quote from: gamblingman on 24 Jul 2012, 03:03 am

I have the exact same problem with my Strata Minis, I had it hooked up to my IPOD, and it wasn't working at all, so it pulled the plug on the IPOD a few times, got high pitched feedback and smoke from both of the tweeters. They don't seem to work at all, though the planars seem to work fine. I will pull them and test them with an OHM meter. What measurement am I looking for? Also, does anyone have replacements???

A high pitched noise and now the tweeters don't work. Sounds like they are toasted to me. I am sorry but I do not have anymore of those tweeters.

HAL · « **Reply #39 on:** 24 Jul 2012, 02:52 pm »

Parts Express carries a Beston circular ribbon tweeter. It looks like it may be based on the original design. Here is a link:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=277-114

Might be worth a look to see if it is a possible replacement if the original is no longer available.

Just a thought.