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I did exactly that once.:It's easiest if you can find a driver of the right size that is surface mount. (If that's the right word for it - i.e. flush mounted.) You'd also need to check how the driver behaves in the cabinet. If it's ported you may need to adjust port length.
Easy is relative.Disconnect the tweeters and replace the woofers with full range drivers of the same size.Or, give the enclosures entirely new front baffles and then cut the appropriate sized hole for whichever full range driver you choose.
can i just use the original woofer as the driver of a single driver speaker?and if i ever buy a driver do i have to put it in a wooden box? what if i just hang the driver on the wall or just use the driver as a speaker?i mean the driver produce better sound when its in an wooden box?sorry about noob question, i just found 47 labs lens monitors yesterday and learned about the existance of single driver system.
that speaker in the pic doesnt look like a single drive speaker
Disconnect the tweeters and replace the woofers with full range drivers of the same size.
I did exactly that once.:
I use FTA-2000 single driver speakers (bing Bob Brines) and have no need (for music) to add a subwoofer. IMO they do nearly everything right (there is no perfect speaker).Extended range drivers usually sacrifice the frequency extremes, beam the highs, have limited excursion (output), but serve midrange frequencies with coherency that others have a hard time matching and offer by default active design (direct connection between each channel of amplication and each driver) with all its advantages.Open baffle (dipoles) provide increased dynamics with a more "diffused" presentation, but do require breathing space (3 - 5 feet normally recommnended) behind them. My favorite OB is Hawthorne Audio: efficient, $300 - 1500 per pair, almost no baffle required, subwoofer very optional, but they are coaxial - not single driver (tweeter in place of dust cap plus a crossover). For the extra dough you get more resolution. They'll be on display at the AKFest near Detroit this weekend. Daryl and Diane are good people.
I'm sure the FTA2000 sound gorgeous, but at $2600 pair finished (and Bob might want to revisit that price considering the F200A now at $487 ea), even if they could be shoe-horned into the cabinets, this wouldn't be at the top of my list of exemplars for someone looking at upgrading "a cheap sort of hi-fi 2-way bookshelf monitor". Did goohsm indicate yet what the dimensions of enclosures and existing port(s) - if any- might be? That data, and the intended application - (if re-purposing the enclosures, it wouldn't be unreasonable to assume that room size / location might also change) could go a long way to shortening the list of candidates - which might well include FR drivers smaller than the existing 6" woofer. If on the other hand, he's looking to find something to directly drop into existing cutouts (dimensions as yet unknown) and simply disconnect the tweeter to avoid need to modify enclosure, the task becomes somewhat more daunting.
Head down to the local thrift, find a nice pair of real wood veneered cabinets and a used set of fullrangers and give it a go. Here's one of my examples of this process.
I listen to all other kinds of music but especially metal
My opinion. I think you might be kind of displeased with full rangers. You'd probably like a pair of three ways better.