[Poultrygeist]

Guy, I never get tired of seeing them.

[Guy 13]

Guy, I never get tired of seeing them.

Hi Poultrygeist.
May I be totally honest with you ?
I don't know why I'm asking you that ?
I'm always honest.
O.K. Then.
May I tell you that I prefer the look of your left speaker.
May I know which one you prefer?
The left or the right?
Did you mention with what amplifier you drive them ?
If not, may I know?
How about the woofers, are they driven separately?
So many questions.
Normal for a little curious guy like me.

Guy 13

...and for the same price.
A close up of my beloved Decware SER84C+ SET 2wpc.
EL84 EH, 6922 EH and 5AR4 Sovtek.
Yes, I know, the front plate says: AUDIO 13
That's the name of my dream company,
that I will never have. Sad, ad, sad....

[Guy 13]

Old thread, I know...but I'm loving my Tekton OB 4.5's with Hframes as bass augmentation.


Since this pic was taken I've moved the Tektons onto stands and have the Hframes on the floor just to the sides. Much better presentation.
 

Hi WIV.
Sorry, too lazy to write your name in full.
I would sure like to know how your Tekton
compare to the equivalent from Omega???
May I suggest that you redo the picture so we can appreciate more your system.
Thanks.

Guy 13

Forgot:
Can't see your amplifier, more details please.

[Poultrygeist]

Guy,

The speakers are Lowther DX3's over Eminence Alpha 15"s. The Lowthers are powered by 3 watt 2a3 Bottlehead Paramours while the Alphas are driven by a Yung class D plate amp. I use an Ashly active crossover.

[Guy 13]

Guy,

The speakers are Lowther DX3's over Eminence Alpha 15"s. The Lowthers are powered by 3 watt 2a3 Bottlehead Paramours while the Alphas are driven by a Yung class D plate amp. I use an Ashly active crossover.

Hi Poultrygeist.
Here Guy 13 goes again with his zillion questions.
Your Yung plate amplifier, what model or how many watt does it putout.
One day, when I run out of GR Research SA1 250Watts plate amplifiers
(I have now four)I will go with the Yung.
What does exactly does your active crossover?
At one time I was considering buying a Bottlehead Stereomour
but it's a kit, which means for me, extra $$$ to get it put together
and the 2A3 are more expensive than the EL84 and even the EL34.
Yes, I am a cheap skate.
I am not sure that the 2A3 sounds better than my EL84, but I can I say something like that,
when I never listen to any 2A3 amplifier.

Guy 13

I like your little RCA Victor dog.
 

[Poultrygeist]

I originally used one Yung SD300 ( 300 watts ) with the H-frame Alphas ( one Alpha per side ).

When I switched to the current set up with two Alphas per side connected in parallel, my power requirements dropped so I now use only one Yung SD100.

An electronic or active crossover is fed by the preamp and used upstream of the Bottleheads and the Yung amps. In this way the H and L frequencies are divided and changed before the signal is amplified allowing for low power and high powered amps to be used simultaneously.

There are many documented advantages that active crossovers enjoy over passives. The selling point for me is that once you buy an active crossover ( they can be less expensive than building a passive which can only be used with one set up ) you're set for easy bi-amping of any future project.

While the Ashly XR-1001 is a 2 way active it also has connections for a subwoofer.

[Mike Nomad]

Having finally decided to embrace Low-Watt Madness, my favorite low-watt speakers are the pair I recently acquired: A pair of all-original Klipsch Cornwalls from 1977. Replaced original crossovers with a pair of CornScalla-Wall from ALK Engineering.

[undertow]

...

[mike1964]

Altec Valencia 16ohm version, driven by Shindo Aurieges and DIY 2A3 SET mono blocks.

[FullRangeMan]

These. From the owner of Oswald Mills Audio.



2 watts. Oh yeah. 

Nice room, this guy know how to live.

[Docere]

I've not heard many speakers suitable for low power, but these little 2-ways are the ones I am listening through now... and I like them very much.



GPA 604-8H-iii with custom crossover and ~290L MLTL cabs, specifically designed for small-moderately sized rooms and high-ish output impedance amplifiers (ie. SETs without negative feedback). Musical and sufficiently dynamic running with ~2 nice Watts.

Cheers,
Ray

[Guy 13]

I've not heard many speakers suitable for low power, but these little 2-ways are the ones I am listening through now... and I like them very much.



GPA 604-8H-iii with custom crossover and ~290L MLTL cabs, specifically designed for small-moderately sized rooms and high-ish output impedance amplifiers (ie. SETs without negative feedback). Musical and sufficiently dynamic running with ~2 nice Watts.

Cheers,
Ray

Hi Ray.
When you say high-ish impedance, do you mean 16 Ohms?
You mentioned a cross-over, but I don't see a tweeter, where is it ?

Guy 13

[Docere]

Hi Guy,

No, not 16 Ohms - that is a high nominal load that a speaker presents to amp. What I speak of here is something different: it is the ideal "damping factor" (ability to damp) for the speakers. Damping is the the ratio of the rated impedance of the loudspeaker to the source impedance (amplifier output impedance).

Most speakers are ideally driven with amp that provides a high damping factor; many people believe a damping factor greater than 10 is best. So, if we have an 8 Ohm speaker, the amplifier output impedance should be 0.8 Ohms or less. This may be true for most commonly available speakers - they are often best driven by solid state amps using feedback that provide the control (high damping factor) their mid-high Q drivers and bass alignments benefit from.

But what if a speaker was designed to need less control from the amplifier? What if they only needed a damping factor of 3; it would only need an amplifier with an output impedance between 2 and 3... just like a SET amp. Enter low Q drivers with suitable bass alignments - a rare beast, but this is the way I decided to go for my simple 2-way system.  When running my speakers with nice solid state amps, the bass can be quick and tight (too tight?), but my SET amp extends the bass (though is a bit soft), is resolved, and most importantly, flows: non-synthesized bass instruments simply sound more real.

Someone that is more technically-minded could explain this better, but I hope this helps in some small way.

Cheers,
Ray

[sebrof]

You mentioned a cross-over, but I don't see a tweeter, where is it ?
Guy 13

I believe it's a coaxial speaker. You see the big cone for the LF, and in the middle is the tweeter for the HF.

[Guy 13]

I believe it's a coaxial speaker. You see the big cone for the LF, and in the middle is the tweeter for the HF.

Hi sebrof.
Sorry to say, but the quality of the picture is not too good, therefore,
I wonder you you can see that it's a coaxial driver.
On the other hand, how can it be otherwise,
since we don't see a tweeter.
Thanks for your thoughts.

Guy 13

[GT Audio Works]

But they only do one note

[GT Audio Works]

If I wanted to play actual music, I guess these would do.
Don't care what they sound like, they look pretty cool.

[Guy 13]

If I wanted to play actual music, I guess these would do.
Don't care what they sound like, they look pretty cool.

Hi,
I don't see any wires going to the drivers,
maybe they are WiFi operated.

Guy 13

[Docere]

Hi sebrof.
Sorry to say, but the quality of the picture is not too good, therefore,
I wonder you you can see that it's a coaxial driver.
On the other hand, how can it be otherwise,
since we don't see a tweeter.

Sebrof is correct - it is coaxial. The model of the driver was provided; an interweb search provides the detail. You can see the compression tweeter down the horn in this pic.



I hope this helps explain.

Cheers,
Ray

[Bill O'Connell]

 Tad 1601A's
 JBL 2470 Martinelli horn
JBL 2404 for tweet