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Post a picture of your room, along with the location of the mic, speakers, etc...Calculate your modes from 10.5X10.5X8, unfortunately a square room. There are calculators online, or even as a sticky in the acoustics circle, such as Harmon Room Mode Calculator. Post your frequency response plot on whatever piece of a software you are using. If you can include a waterfall/decay plot(s) that would help.The Omnimic I am assuming is calibrated. Hello,I used a calibrated Omnimic to get the curves below.Without the above information, it becomes very difficult to advise. Best,Anand.
Where are you seated in the room? Have you looked at the decay times pre and post treatment? That's another thing that treatment will do.The square shape isn't helping and the 70Hz issue is likely a ceiling reflection issue that hasn't been addressed. Bryan
Hey! Somebody else with Omnimic! I will be interested to see what feedback you get. I'm still trying to figure out what some of the measurements really mean. A couple of questions. With regard to the last two graphs, I'm guessing that those are the left and right channel frequency responses. If correct, what settings were you using? (1/3 octave thru 1/96 are available).I noticed the picture shows your microphone mounted above the listening chair pointing down - how did you decide on this position? I ask because I know with mine, pointing it directly at the speakers and moving it just a few inches or changing the angle slightly can effect the readings. I try to place mine as close to my head's position as possible and pointing straight forward. Not sure if there is a recommended orientation, so I'm guessing.
I would prefer the diamond layout. While it is not symmetric to the length and width, it is at least putting the speakers symmetric left to right with regard to the side walls so their gain and reflections will be pretty much the same and we don't run into issues with the image 'pulling' to one side as frequency shifts into and out of the boundary related phase reinforcements and cancellations.This all assumes that we can't tweak normal seating position and speaker positions. Sometimes, one can deliberately generate a counteracting null from the wall behind the speakers that will help to offset the peak from the room width.Bryan
bryan, i understand what you are saying. but, it has been my experience that, in a compromised room - like one as small as 10.5x10.5 - it is better to set up asymmetrically, to even out room nodes, then to worry about image stability. while i understand you want the listener out of any node areas, it is good to reduce the nodes, regardless of where the listener is. you can get a stable image by being somewhat nearfield, and by absorbing 1st reflection points. this has been my experience and that of others. is it perfect? no; hard to get perfection in a wery small room; everything will be somewhat of a compromise.regarding subs; i think one or two smaller subs - could be 2cu-ft or less - would be more than sufficient. you're not looking for ultimate sub-20hz response, only enough to smooth out room nodes. this is one case where i would allow the mains to run full-range, instead of crossing them to the subs, to allow for more sources of the low frequencies...ymmv,doug s.
