[jefe]

I completed my build and it doesn't work.  By this I mean I get nothing.  I have checked the values of the resistors; all good.  I've checked continuity from each connection to the next on the circuit board; all good.  The batteries check at 9v.  Wondering what else I can try.  Any help would be great.  Thanks.

[hagtech]

Can you post a photo?

jh

[Gothover]

I completed my build and it doesn't work.  By this I mean I get nothing.  I have checked the values of the resistors; all good.  I've checked continuity from each connection to the next on the circuit board; all good.  The batteries check at 9v.  Wondering what else I can try.  Any help would be great.  Thanks.

Check the solder connections, look for possible bridge. Also check the power switch.

These are fairly straight forward.

Dave

[jefe]

Can't seem to upload photos.  Will keep trying.
This is my first real kit so any and all feedback is appreciated. 

I'm assuming the power works as values change when I go from off to on.
I don't know what bridging is, please explain.

Here is the stuff I've measured, even though I have NO idea what anything specificly means, I was looking for consistency, patterns, or relationships between components.  For what it's worth.

Sockets:
The lower left and lower right are not attatched to any resisters.  The readings when on read .158 and .747 which together are about 9v (right) so I think it's OK.
The sockets connected to resisters read the resisters value (good, right?).

C8 and C11 are mirrored; meaning that I installed them with the writing facing toward each other.  I didn't mean to install them this way, is this a problem?

The only things I can think of is that the C1,3,4,6 may not be appropriate, although the values fit the requirements.  Or, the batteries are not making it into the unit.  I don't know how or where to check this as I get readings that some (maybe not all) the power is going through.

Thanks

[jefe]

Still can't get photos from gallery.  They are "bugle plus".

[poty]

If you use IC-sockets (or even if you don't use them) - check the orientation of the opamps (rotate if wrong).
Measure the power supply voltages on each opamp (that way you are eliminating possible problems with power switch and battery holders/contacts).
Touch with a bare wire output RCA socket, outputs of each opamp, input of each opamp (check possible problems with circuits, parts or wiring).

[jefe]

poty,
could you be specific on how to do the measuring and testing you are talking about?  I'm not sure what your suggesting.  Thanks.

[poty]

Sorry for the confusion. Magically I haven't read your "measurements" message. After several readings I can't still understand what you measured exactly. Then let's begin first with obvious visual inspections.
1. Check that all opamps in sockets (U1, U2, U3) inserted correctly. The "key" (it can be a dot near one of the lead or hollow at one end or other sign) should be pointed at the power switch side of the PCB. If you made a mistake it's possible that the opamp is already broken.
2. Check that you solder battery contacts right. The + and - signs should be visible on the board and it is easy to check if the wires goes to right solder pad.
3. Check "polarity-dependent" parts - C7, C10. Positive lead of C10 should be from the power switch side, C7 - from opposite to the power switch side.
4. Check if all joints are soldered good and there are no short circuited tracks on PCB.

Then I assume you have a simple DVM which is able to measure voltages. Switch the DVM to "voltage mode" with max readings more than 10 V. Put "minus" probe to the ground lug and the other probe - to the following points (power switch of the Bugle should be in "on" position):
1. B2 minus - should be around -9V.
2. B1 plus - +9V
3. Each of the U1-U3 "8" pin (just on the other raw of the square solder pad) - +9V
4. Each of the U1-U3 "4" pin (the same raw as square solder pad, but the last in the raw) - -9V

Check this and write what you have.

P.S. If you have trouble posting pictures - send them to me and I'll put them here.

[jefe]

poty,

Took the measurements you noted and got the following.  With the pcb orientation with the input and ground closest to me and the output and power switch away I'm guessing the op-amp pins are :   4  8
                        3  7
                        2  6
                        1  5
  left  side                     right side

readings are U1 (4) -6.67, (8)8.96  U2  (4) -8.69  ( 8.96  U3 (4) 0.00  ( 8.94

Batteries read B1 9v  B2 8.89

thanks.

[poty]

It seems you've made a mistake. I'll try to attach a picture from the Bugle Kit Manual showing the pins.
Then it seems that pin 8 in your testing is actually pin 8; your pin 4 is really pin 1.  Voltages on pin 8 seem OK. Voltages on pin 1 (your 4) are strange (except last). Have you measured with everything disconnected from the inputs of your Bugle? You havent said anything about checking the first part of my previous message too. It's possible that you made a mistake rotating the opamps. In the case - pictures would help, but we can't see them either.

[jefe]

poty,
Thanks a ton for your help.  I took the measureemnts with the orientaion of the op-amps like you said; the "key" being the dot pointing toward the power switch.  Also, I haven't had anything in the input when testing.
I'm still not able to post from the gallery.  I'll try sending pics to you.  Thanks again.

[poty]

OK! Even when opamps are oriented right, your pin-guessing is not.

[reuben]

Just in case this was overlooked: If an op amp gets installed backwards and is powered up, you need a new op amp.

-reub