[Paul Heroy]

I have a pair of the original RM30s and unfortunately am having to part with them. A question has come up about whether biamped is an absolute requirement. I have always had them setup with the DCX 2496 that they came with in a biamp configuration, and going by memory and just looking at the rear panel, at best I don't think it would be easy to have a single amp channel power an RM30.

[John Casler]

Hi Paul,

Sorry to hear you need to sell your RM30's.  I just sent you a PM.

  I checked the order records from 2008 and you had one of the early SDE (Special Digital Edition) RM30's.

That DOES require Bi-amping.

Let us know what else we can do.

[Hemy]

How much you looking to sell them for Paul?
Nevermind I just saw your other post!

[Paul Heroy]

Thanks for confirming, John.

I have to admit, I had forgotten about this being the SDE special deal. So that makes this an even better deal, if anyone is looking... 

[Shear Bliss]

I"m a little confused on biamping my RM-1s. Currently running full range with a EKSC parts rebuilt Eagle 2 with good sounds. I"m thinking about adding a Crown K1 or K2 to do bass with the Eagle on the ribbons etc.

Would I be better off staying passive XO using the RMs rear switches to biamp, or go with a active XO such as BBE/DBX etc.

Brian briefly mentioned needing to disable the passive XO if going the active route, but not sure what all is involved in doing so. I"m hoping some AudioCircle readers can point me in the right direction on passive vs active for these RM-1s.

Thanks All, Shear Bliss

[opnly bafld]

I"m a little confused on biamping my RM-1s. Currently running full range with a EKSC parts rebuilt Eagle 2 with good sounds. I"m thinking about adding a Crown K1 or K2 to do bass with the Eagle on the ribbons etc.

Would I be better off staying passive XO using the RMs rear switches to biamp, or go with a active XO such as BBE/DBX etc.

Brian briefly mentioned needing to disable the passive XO if going the active route, but not sure what all is involved in doing so. I"m hoping some AudioCircle readers can point me in the right direction on passive vs active for these RM-1s.

Thanks All, Shear Bliss

Not sure what you are trying to accomplish, but the best part of Eagle amps is the bass.
I'd be inclined to keep the Eagle on the woofers and try something else on the mids/highs or vertical biamp with another Eagle 2 ( I think Russ has a lightly used rebuild he may sell ).

Lin
(had RM40s  ~ still have an Eagle 2 and Eagle 400s  )

[mjosef]

Would I be better off staying passive XO using the RMs rear switches to biamp, or go with a active XO

You can certainly start with passive bi-amping using the toggle switch, pretty easy to do...just get an additional amp of similar spec to the other amp.
If you hear an improvement with the sound(bass in particular) then you can pursue actively biamping using an electronic crossover, which require that you remove the coil/cap on the bass drivers and the caps+1 coil on the mid panel...plus 'rerouting' the wires of the bass and mid panel to the respective terminals at the internal rear of the cabinet.

THat's the path I took.  I ended up removing the crossover from inside the cabinet to an outboard enclosure that serves as a riser for my RM1, thus adding another pair of terminals for the midpanel. I completely bypassed the pot on the spiral tweeter (being less sensitive than the mid panel), changed the tweeter cap to sonicap bypassed with T3 Russian teflon cap(.01uF). You would need a capacitance meter to verify that the values of the replacement caps match the original.

I use Marchand XM1 crossover modules (less flexibility but very good sonically and cheap/ $115. + enclosure). Plus add the cost of 10k ohm pots for the crossover outputs to level match the respective amps. It is some work but well worth the effort.

However before you go down this road, I would suggest you do all the mods to the speakers(if you haven't already done them) like vitrify the passive radiators, line the inner walls with blackhole 5 and replace the fiberglass in the midpanel enclosure to lambswool or acousta-stuf polyfill. Just these steps tighten up the bass (a lot) and give a cleaner midrange.

If you look in my gallery/ stereo folder, you will see where I installed the blackhole5.

[Shear Bliss]

Thanks mjosef for your input on the active XO for my RM-1s. Sounds pretty involved going to active, not sure my electrical skills are up to what all there is to do. I have tryed passive biamping before with different amps, but had no attenuation control over either amp. I would go to a tube amp on the ribbons if I could find one with attenuation control, and keep my Eagle 2 on the bass in passive mode. I have the newer Mega woofers and Wave-guides on the ribbons, been thinking on the blackhole for awhile now. The lambswool is news to me, thanks for the info.

[John Casler]

All the above is good advice. 

Not much to add.  While the RM1 is a discontinued design, it surely is a great foundation for your project.

It would be had to imagine employing an Eagle "and" K2 on that speaker, but OB is correct that the Eagle is known for its bass prowess.  However, the K2 is likely one of the greatest Woofer and Sub amps ever, so there you go.

I recently posted a VMPS RMx system of my freind Roy in Vgeas, and he has TWO K2's running his woofers on the RMx's.

But your other possible set up, with tubes on top, would also yield tremendous potential.

[Shear Bliss]

Hello Mr. Casler,
I agree about putting a tube amp on top, but having no luck finding a tube amp with attenuation controls. Anyone know of any outside a Pro type amp ???
The RM-1s may be discontinued, but try prying them out of my hands! Awesome loudspeakers.

Sincerely, DW