My first GR build

rockdrummer · « **on:** 6 Jan 2012, 04:59 pm »

I'm building a set of A/V-1s for my parents. My dad was going to order the bose wave radio and I talked him out of it. (not meant to bash bose) I want to eventually build a V series for myself. All in due time. However, since I have an opportunity to get a first try under my belt with a smaller project, I jumped all over it.

The kit will be ordered this weekend. I don't see in the cabinet plans on the website that there is any bracing. I tried to search for av-1 specific bracing but didn't see any. I did see the xls encore builds with bracing. Anyone have any knowledge of the type of bracing I should use in the AV1?

Hoping to document my build and post pics but it will take a while.

Thanks for all the help.

Ben

S Clark · « **Reply #1 on:** 6 Jan 2012, 05:16 pm »

Look at the bottom of the AV1 page and you'll see the link to the plans.

http://gr-research.com/pdf/av1box.pdf
If I remember correctly they don't call for internal braces, since it's a small box. however, it's easy to add a hardwood dowel from side to side, and laminate two pieces of 5/8 mdf to make a stronger front baffle. Just roundover the back of the woofer opening a bit.
The AV1 is a serious little speaker that gets overlooked amongst Danny's more glamorous offerings. You'll be surprised at the quality.
Scott

rockdrummer · « **Reply #2 on:** 14 Jan 2012, 04:21 pm »

Got the kit in the mail yesterday. Looking forward to building these. In the process of making circle cutting jigs. I will take some pics and put them up when I actually get going on the building process.

Ben

Redefy Audio · « **Reply #3 on:** 15 Jan 2012, 04:53 pm »

nice, pls update us with ur progress

rockdrummer · « **Reply #4 on:** 19 Jan 2012, 02:55 pm »

Sorry to those who keep looking for build updates. Temperature issues in my workspace. 1 degree F this morning.

I do have a question. I have some used router bits I got with the router I bought 2nd hand, but I need a basic cutting bit for circles in mdf. I have seen several used on this forum and I want to make sure I won't end up with a "bad idea" bit before I go. Trying to save money where I can. Will need 1/4 inch shank.
Thanks.
Ben

rockdrummer · « **Reply #5 on:** 25 Mar 2012, 02:07 pm »

FINALLY! Here is a pic of my crossover layout. I do have a question. Should I plan my layout to keep the inductors away from the woofer magnet? The .22 will be about 2 or 3 inches from it.

I deleted this picture from my gallery because the layout was all wrong.

Ben

rockdrummer · « **Reply #6 on:** 25 Mar 2012, 02:52 pm »

Few more pics

ben

S Clark · « **Reply #7 on:** 25 Mar 2012, 03:52 pm »

Looks like your project is progressing well. I see that you have made a circle jig. Did you make three different ones? One for the tweeter cutout, one for the tweeter recess, and one for the woofer? I did that the first time I made speakers, and finally gave up and bought a Jasper jig. Also, be sure to have those front baffles reallly secure before cutting the circles in them. Do you have a roundover bit? Rounding the edges of the front baffle will help reduce edge diffraction.
Scott

rockdrummer · « **Reply #8 on:** 25 Mar 2012, 04:39 pm »

Scott, I made one jig that has all the sizes I need. The problem I ran into was the little give there was with it made the test circles a hair too big. So after two tries, my port size fits snug, and the woofer took one adjustment too. I tested the circles on a scrap board of mdf and they seem to work okay. Tedious but I think I am making it work okay.

If I was doing this again, a jasper would probably be a good idea. But I really enjoyed the trial and error with the home made one. I haven't had a lot of garage time with power tools in a while.

Concerning the front baffles, I had the piece clamped down very tight, but you are probably foreseeing the soon-to-be loose circle. When that shifted a teeny bit, that caused my straight bit to lean into the circle a tad. That was on a scrap piece also. So now I plan to clamp and then screw the inner to the worktable. Should do the trick.

I do have a roundover bit.

Thanks for the response Scott. That's what I like so much about this community. There is so much helpful advice! A year ago, if you told me I would be building anything like this, I would have looked puzzled and truly confused. But here I am with the help of so many people here. Enjoying every minute of it.

Thanks again. Hopefully I will have some more soon.

Ben

S Clark · « **Reply #9 on:** 25 Mar 2012, 04:50 pm »

Quote from: rockdrummer on 25 Mar 2012, 04:39 pm

The problem I ran into was the little give there was with it made the test circles a hair too big.

Yeah, even a little wobble with the pivot pin will result in the circle being 1/16" too large. I use a black putty to fill the gap. You only need a tiny bit, and you can get it from any auto glass shop.

Scott

Danny Richie · « **Reply #10 on:** 26 Mar 2012, 01:24 am »

I'd move those parts around so that they fit on as small of a board as possible. That way it will be easy to install it through the woofer hole.

That MDF sure looks dark.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #11 on:** 26 Mar 2012, 01:37 am »

Okay. I guess that's chancy thinking I'd never have to take the board out after the cabinet is glued. If I condense it on a thinner board, can I maybe lay both inductors down? Or does one need to stand upright?

Also, how close to the woofer magnet can I get? I could maybe use more long space if I could tuck something under it.

Ben

Danny Richie · « **Reply #12 on:** 26 Mar 2012, 02:11 am »

Quote from: rockdrummer on 26 Mar 2012, 01:37 am

Okay. I guess that's chancy thinking I'd never have to take the board out after the cabinet is glued. If I condense it on a thinner board, can I maybe lay both inductors down? Or does one need to stand upright?

Also, how close to the woofer magnet can I get? I could maybe use more long space if I could tuck something under it.

Ben

The thickness of your board will not matter.

You will also need to keep the smaller one on its end and you need to turn it so that if it were to roll then it would roll into or away from the larger inductor.

And keeping it from being right up on the woofer magnet will not hurt.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #13 on:** 26 Mar 2012, 02:25 am »

Thanks Danny. I will find a better layout.

The board I'm using is 6 inches wide, so by thinner I meant to adhere to your advice and fit it through the woofer hole.
I will post another picture after I get it laid out again. I THINK I'm clear on the inductor positions. After working with it, I see what you mean. The closer they are, the more important it is that the small one is pointed right at the large one. It made sense before, but now after really doing it, I know what I can and can't do now. At least I think I do.

Thanks again, and have a great night!
Ben

corndog71 · « **Reply #14 on:** 26 Mar 2012, 03:13 am »

nevermind, wrong speaker

Ron · « **Reply #15 on:** 26 Mar 2012, 11:00 am »

Attached pictures show the crossovers I built about five (5) years ago for a pair of AV-1's. The coils used at that time were foil type which have subsequently been replaced with Erse air core copper wire type. If I am not mistaken the dimensions of the crossover boards were 4-1/2" W x 5-1/2" L. I used 1/4" thick MDF, but Masonite board works just as well, especially the perforated type. Pictures were taken before I added plastic wire ties to better secure the parts. These pictures are not the greatest,but hopefully they will be of some use to you.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #16 on:** 28 Mar 2012, 05:32 am »

Alright, thanks for setting me straight.

Here is what I am going with. Fits in the woofer hole, and I think the layout is correct

Ron · « **Reply #17 on:** 28 Mar 2012, 11:16 am »

Your crossover parts layout looks correct.

1. Suggest that you use platics wire ties to better secure the parts to the boards so they don't pull loose.

2. Be sure to line the interior walls of the enclosure with sound damping material like acoustical foam or carpet felt. In my opinion, No-Rez works best but is fairly expensive.Also, maintain a distance of 1-1/4" to 1/1/2" from the back side of the front baffle board to the front edge of the side wall damping material.

3. Prior to installing the drivers, lightly fill the back half of the cabinet with Dacron Poly-Fil. Make sure the poly fill does not block the rear vent port opening.

I think you will be pleasently surprised just how amazingly good the AV-1's sound.

rockdrummer · « **Reply #18 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 01:00 pm »

Let me begin by admitting that I knew it wasn't the wisest decision to do this, but I knew I didn't have access to a table saw, or a jointer. I started this project anyway. I thought that several painstaking hours would make for decent butt joints. I think I almost have that.

I measured, measured again, doublechecked the lines, etc. I did a fair job cutting pieces with a circular saw. Now, I'm embarrassingly admitting that the cabinets don't look like I want.

I fit them together and test clamped them and they look just fine. After lots of careful sanding with a block, I will have a passable structure. But I can't get perfect seams. The outer edge of the joint doesn't always fit perfectly because of ever so slightly rounded connections. I feel like making the purely cosmetic hairline blemishes disappear is unlikely.
I know I have a good connection up and down each joint, but because it's not totally perfect, I will be praying a filler will do the trick.

The pieces fit like clockwork, but being a perfectionist without perfect tools, I'm saddened by my results.

.
Any words of wisdom?

Ben

Ron · « **Reply #19 on:** 3 Apr 2012, 01:49 pm »

Could you post some pictures showing how your cabinets presently look so some helpful suggestions can be provided?