[JoshK]

Some have asked me about my recent stint into the DIY realm and specifically about cable building.  I thought I would post here for the benefit of all.   I am no expert in these things, and everything that I am going to share is easily found elsewhere on the internet.  

I have found that star quad wiring works really well for building speaker cables and power cords (power cords will minor variation).  I have zero electronics background and even I could do it.

I don’t want to get into the rationale or reasoning why star quad works well, just do a google search on star quad geometry (you should find Canare’s reference) or read the link below for a down to earth explanation.  

The greatest resource I found for star quad how to, is here http://www.audioasylum.com/audio/cables/messages/32920.html
I think he says it more eloquently and succinctly than I could so I won’t rehash everything over again. I am willing to answer questions on how to twist the wiring if someone doesn’t understand.  (It is easiest to do with the help of a buddy to hold the opposite end down).  

The other pieces:

The wire that I found has had really good results is silver plated wire from Apex Jr.  (www.apexjr.com).  You can’t make online purchases but if you call him up and tell him what you want he’ll make it easy for you.  Of course, please feel free to use any wire you wish, such as OFC, or others.  Just post what you used and how it turns out so we can tally the results.  Remember that when choosing the gauge to use that you will be using four wires in each run, so the gauge of the resulting wire will be 2-3awg thicker.  14awg stranded or 12awg stranded (for really thick wiring) are good choices.

The spades I sourced from Luminous Audio and are silver plated copper spades. I haven’t experimented with different spades but the price is right on these and they are very heavy duty.   They can accept thick gauge wiring and can be crimped or soldered (I used a little of both techniques).    If you want to use bananas, I would probably check out Eichmann Bayonets.   If you are making power cord instead of speaker cables then source your favorite AC plug, but remember it must accept a large gauge wiring, and many such AC receptacles are expensive.  Furutechs are wonderful and don’t require soldering but are super pricey, Marinco’s are good for a budget cord.  I might have a look at the new FIM AC connectors if I was going to make more cords.

Lastly, you need heat-shrink and possibly techflex for looks.   I source theses components from my local pro audio shop that is on the block I work.  I’d check with your local pro audio shop as mine has these much cheaper than the online audiophile parts dealers I’ve seen.   My understanding is the heat shrink does more than just make it look better, it keeps the cables twisted neatly and also provides so tightness for less vibration internally.  If you are building a really long run of cables I suggest picking up a $20 heat gun as they work much better than an old hair dryer and take a lot less time.   Heat-shrinking is simple.  Cut the length of heat shrink to be maybe a half inch longer than you want it to turn out.  Slide the heat shrink over the twisted wire and then heat until it shrinks tightly around the wiring.  Techflex is equally easy.  Cut to desired length, slide over wiring and then I take an inch or two of heat-shrink and put over the ends of the techflex and heat so the techflex is secured and the ends do not fray.  Voila!  Simple.

If I’ve missed anything please let me know.  Ask questions and I’ll answer here. If in the process of building cables you come across a reference or a supplier that you like, please post here to share with us.

That is my lame attempt at sharing my knowledge and experience.

[JoshK]

Forgot to mention something, for those who might not know.  You should always use a multimeter to test if you are connecting the right ends together.  You don't want to short the wires and blow your amp up!

Set your multimeter to a small resitance, say 200ohms.  Touch one of the leads to one of the four wires on one end of the cable, then use the other lead to touch the wires in the opposite end of the cable.  Only one wire should make the multimeter react, that is the same wire that the other lead is touching.  This helps you identify which wire is which.  Always test your wires before you terminate them!  And after you terminate them too!

[StevenACNJ]

I previously read Roger Hill's cable making posts over at the Asylum. He definately went to a lot of trouble testing various construction methods. I also found it interesting that Roger doesnt  use any shielding.

Alan Maher also posted similiar construction methods at AVS & Asylum

[randytsuch]

I use a very similiar construction, based on Stan Warren's recipe.

He advised making a jig using 4 pieces of 1/2 inch PVC, taped togeter.  One run one piece of wire through each piece of pipe, hold the end, and twist the jig.  After doing this, I stick one end in a drill, and twist a little more to make the twist a little tighter.  I always use 12 guage THHN wire, where all the individual wires are the same guage (this is  not true for most wire made these days).

BTW, Stan always recommended making sure the wires run in the same direction.  Looking at the way the guy from AA did it, you would have wires running in opposite directions.

Randy

[Maggie Guy]

Thanks Josh,
I will let you know If I decide to make a set.

[JoshK]

Randy,

Where do you source your THHN?  That might be helpful to know.

[randytsuch]

Randy,

Where do you source your THHN?  That might be helpful to know.

I bought my wire from back east, but I don't have the link anymore for the name of the distributor where I bought it from.

I bought "Colonial wire and cable", who still makes wire with all the strands the same size.  But, there is a distributor, and a manufacturer named colonial, so you have to make sure you find someone who carries the colonial wire from the manufacturer.  Finally, if you buy wire, and ask for a specific wire, the distributor will tell you all wire is the same, and I had to insist the wire need to be Colonial.

The other option is to go your local Lowes  or Home Depot with a magnifying glass, and look at the wire ends of the spools, and find you where the strands are the same size.  I tried this, but could not find any, buy some people have better luck.

Randy

[Kim S.]

I used Colonial wire also for my interconnects.  I ordered it from Aime Electric in Florida.  Their phone number is (813)752-4777.

[WerTicus]

josh, most multimetres have a setting called 'connectivity'  which will tell you if the wires are connected at all.

which is basically the same thing, but mine beeps at you if they are connected which is cool

[JoshK]

Should one get plenum or non-plenum Cat5?

[Levi]

Should one get plenum or non-plenum Cat5?

It all depends on where you are routing CAT5 wires.  

Plenum grade cables should be used if you are routing cables through the walls or above ceilings.  It is by-law (Federal))(NEC) to use Plenum grade CAT5 wires on buildings in case of fire.  Plenum grade wires are not fire-proof,  they are fire-retardant and it does not emit toxic fumes when it catches on fire.

Plenum grade wires also cost more.  Performance wise, they both offer the same performance.

[Occam]

..........
Plenum grade wires also cost more.  Performance wise, they both offer the same performance.

No kidd'n? Have you verified this empirically?  

You say potato, and I say potato....