[Will2]

Hi,

I'm finishing off a pair of N2x cabinets with maple burl veneer and I need some advice on how to finish them.  The veneer has great depth and color variation when wet.  What's the best way for me to get that type of look when finished - i'm hoping to avoid too much sanding.  Any pointers would be much appreciated.  Would something like this work? http://www.dickblick.com/products/krylon-crystal-clear-acrylic-coating/?AID=805536&PID=183847&SID=clear-acrylic&URL=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dickblick.com%2Fproducts%2Fkrylon-crystal-clear-acrylic-coating%2F

Cheers
Will

[NeilT]

Wet Look or just a glossy finish?

I really liked this General Finish wipe on poly. It takes several coats with sanding inbetween, but the results are beautiful. The wood grain looks deep and rich. It kinda glows depending on the lighting.

http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat

[Will2]

That looks great Neil.  What type of sanding is required between coats (hand sanding or can I use an electric sander) and how many coats does it take to get that finish?

[NeilT]

That looks great Neil.  What type of sanding is required between coats (hand sanding or can I use an electric sander) and how many coats does it take to get that finish?

I used 400 grit sanding pads, all done by hand. Just hit it lightly, after it has a good chance to dry,  knocking down the high spots, and runs if any. Wipe off the dust with rag. Depending on the weather, maybe a couple of coats a day. It will start to build up nicely after about 4 caots, then it is up to you. I lost count on my project. I buffed it out with auto finish for the final look. Others from AC may have better tips.

Have fun and take your time, if you screw up just sand down the mistakes and start over. I used a foam brush and rags. It depends on the size of the surface. The foam may work better with larger areas. Just wiping on the first coat, you will see the wood grain just pop, and it just gets better with each coat.

Make sure you post some pictures.

Neil

[corndog71]

Those are some of the best looking speakers I've ever seen, Neil.

Outstanding work!

[NeilT]

Those are some of the best looking speakers I've ever seen, Neil.

Outstanding work!

Thanks

[Beatcoaster]

I did much the same as Neil but used the rattle can acrylic.  About 4 heavy coats with a day of dry time in between each one and wet/dry 500 in between coats as well, tack cloth the dust off after sanding and start the next coat until you have built it up to your desired look.  My final coat was let to sit for a few days to get a solid cure and then I did 500 wet, 1000 wet, 1500 wet, 2000 wet, and finally an automotive buffing/polishing/wax...I've done two different veneer types so far and the amount of work varies greatly depending on the wood you are using, some suck it up, others don't.  The biggest enemy is the wood spots that soak it more than others, creating dips in the finsh and/or even bubbles that will dry to little mini volcanoes - you might want to perfect your skill on a seperate piece prior to hitting your speakers.  The best thing is you can always sand it off if you do get drips/runs.  Here are a couple photos of my latest:

Mozambique




Bird's Eye Anigre

[Will2]

Thanks Beatcoaster - that's just the type of thing I need.  How thorough did you find you needed to be with the sanding between coats?  Just a light sanding or a thorough go-over?

[Beatcoaster]

Early on I was able to keep it light, as the first coats seem to just be soaking into the wood - hand sanding accomplished this with a foam block (Harbor Freight = cheap foam sanding blocks, not $4.00/ea at HD/Lowes).  As it progressed the acrylic slowly started to build up and fill in the wood grain with each coat and the sanding seemed to get more intensive.  Even on my later coats there were still areas that were clearly lower than others and I felt like all I was doing was sanding off dollars of acrylic each time, but it just needed to be built up and remain flat.  Once you have some good build up, 4 or 5 coats I would expect, hit it with the various sandpapers and let it sit for a week or more to cure 100%.  I learned this the hard way as I had only let my final coat sit for a couple days and the wool pad I was using to do my initial buff scratched it all to hell and I had to redo an entire side of one speaker.  I thought the wool pad has something on it, but the acrylic was still just that soft.  The orbital buffer with wool/foam pads and a good polishing compound is a must at the end or your arm will be toast, and it will bring a smile to your face when you see the mirror just start appearing!! 

Oh and P.S., wear a crappy t-shirt and hang a old sheet around your work area when buffing it out, otherwise you will be like me wiping down your entire garage of polishing compound splatter and have ruined clothes!

[Outofthewoods]

Hi Will,

I've never used rattle cans to finish a speaker, but some things are likely to still apply.

Look for a compatible sanding sealer. Building up the substrate with a good sealer will save you a lot of time and material when you apply the top coat. Sealer is less expensive, dries quickly, sands VERY easily and fills quicker.

Follow the manufactures temperature recommendations! Some finishes will NEVER fully cure if applied under a specific temperature.

Be careful not to apply too much finish at a time, or re-coat too soon between coats. Sounds like what BC was struggling with is what's known as "solvent pop". This occurs in various situations but is caused when the solvent in the paint is not able to escape before the paint flashes off. You want to apply just enough to leave it wet. Moisture could also have been the culprit.

Hope this info can be of some use.

Have fun!

Ruben

[Will2]

Thanks Ruben - some great advice.