[pas]

About a month ago I inquired on the VA about the next upgrade to contemplate.  Based on previous queries and other factors I had narrowed it down to a phono preamp first, a full function pre-amp second, and finally the power amp.  You can see my profile at the VA http://cgi.audioasylum.com/systems/7195.html.  I knew I couldn’t afford any of the high end units and I like making quantum leaps in quality.  Tubesforever answered sooooooo…there’s a C2 in my immediate future.

I just pulled the trigger on some basic tools to do the job; solder station & multimeter. I’m basically starting from ground zero.  It’s going to be a slow build as the budget is severely restricted requiring very careful selection andtiming, which leaves me lots of time for research, learning, and practice!

All of this leads up to my first question.  After sourcing/costing all the parts for the C2, one glaring item is the cost of the case in relationship to the electronics.  Total cost including Jim’s board exclusive of shipping, tax, tools, & supplies is about 510.00.  The Lansing case is just less than 25% of total cost, although the Hammond box is only $40 aprox.  Now most electronics are housed in metal boxes of some sort or another.  I’m “old school” in some respects.  I really like the look of wood cabinets.  If I’m going to build something it should look as beautiful as it sounds.  From my reading there are two issues; Grounding & Shielding.

I think I’ll need metal top, front, & back plates instead of wood.  Will the remainder of the 6 planes need to be shielded in metal and will all 6 sides need to be electrically connected.

I’m really looking forward to this.

Best Regards,

Phil

[alpa6]

Whatever you do don't get a hammond box.I did and boy am i sorry.I'm going to have to get a lansing case in the future.It looks better and fits like a glove.The hammond simply does not.
Get some separate rca's/Skip the ones that are soldered to the board.I fear breaking a trace any time i pull them in or out.
Seperate rca's fix this and if their gold plated look much better.

[jameshuls]

I have the lansing case in Black - I never used it, as I ended up making a custom case. I did add some damping material to the interior of the bottom plate, otherwise it is as I purchased it. I would be willing to part with it for 75% of the cost of what Lansing charges. If you are interested, let me know and we can work something out. I agree with alpa6 about the RCAs. Partsconnexion has gold-plated copper chassis mount RCAs made by DH Labs that are quite economical (relative to the boutique offering by WBT etc), and probably sound better than the standard PCB-mounted plugs.

[hotrod]

 Some where in these threads I seen people using a polished aluminum chassis with wood sides,damn nice looking case($79 I believe) that I may have used if I came across it sooner.I can't recall the manufacture someone here may chime in.

[Bill Epstein]

My 3 cents.

A Hammond steel box, 12x8x3 is OK if you use a metal-cutting blade to remove the fold-over at the rear. I have one in black all drilled for the Clarinet but will use the wood chassis I built instead. I built and threw away an aluminum one and I can't imagine the 2" deep boxes working.

Consider that you'll use 3 to 4 board feet of nice hardwood, the top plate will cost about $25 from on-line metals and you'll need 15 or 20 bucks worth of copper/aluminum foil and fasteners. That's about the cost of the Lansing box.

My very first Cornet build was just as pas is thinking, a brass top and back plate on a padauk chassis. No foil lining in those dyas and it hummed just a smidge with very sensitive speaks.

[hotrod]

I think I found it here is the thread
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=5474.0

[MusicMtnMonkey]

Sadly those are out of stock on the website.  Parts Connexion has also been out of stock of those or a very similar product for quite a while now.  Bummer, they do look nice.

I think I found it here is the thread
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=5474.0

[pas]

Oh my, those are beautiful.  Bill, I suspect the photo doesn't do justice to the dovetails in the case work.  Now I've got lots more work in front of me! 

[tubesforever]

You can build or buy a basic wood box and upgrade to a special wood box later.  Its all in the sonics and the C2 will not disappoint you.

I love wood, perhaps I should ditch the idea of using a professional rack and go all Cherry!  I gotta say Amandarae and Bill Epstein's pieces look at least as good as they sound.

Cheers!

[pas]

This returns me to my original question regarding wood boxes and RFI/Grounding issues.  I've done various serachers both here and on the Asylum and it appears that all wood boxes have metal on all 6 sides on the inside.  I would assume that all 6 sides are connected electrically.  The question I haveris this also the common ground?

Next is the fact that I'd like the power switch to be in the front of the unit.  Because the 120V AC power cord will be inside the metal enclosure, goung from the EIC plug to a front mounted switch and back to the power transformer, does it need to be shielded from the board and components mounted on it?

I'm now looking at inexpensive boxes.  I have a few sq' of aluminum sheet at my disposal that is very malleable.  I plan on using contact cement to line the inside of the wood box.

On another note (C#) my wife is looking over my sholder on how the finished product will "look" which for now will shreik DIY, but now that she has some input, illusionary though it may be, we're looking at various options.

The solder station & multimeter arrived earlier in the week...slowly we're getting the stuff...

[hagtech]

is this also the common ground?

Yes.  Connect in once place, to the circuit.  Usually the earth ground or tt binding post can work well. 

jh

[pretzel_logic60]

Looking at what tubesforever did with the switch in front it does need to be shielded. I was thinking about doing the same thing and have decided to put the switch on the top in the back so I don't have to do all the extra work.

I don't think the case has to be shielded on all 6 sides but I could be wrong. I also am thinking about a different case and making a wood surround for it and then I could go with the Hammond box which is cheaper but I can also get one 14 inches wide instead of going full rack width on the Lansing case. I will most likely do a prototype with the cheap Hammond.

Brian

[tubesforever]

Shielding on 6 sides is optimal but not necessary for all applications. 

With my system the line stage and phono are about 6 inches above my Bedini 150 MK II and this has a big transformer.  By enclosing 6 sides you can reduce the effect of EM fields of other devices from impacting your circuit. 

If I build a wood box I will use aluminum up top and on the bottom.  I can just tie aluminum or copper foil along the sides to create a proper shield.

Hope this helps.