[topround]

This probably has been covered here before but..
I plan on running a dedicated line to my outlets for my system, can anyone make any recommedations?

What cable should I use ?
Should I upgrade the outlets beyond the Hubble hospital grade?
Should the breaker be installed in any special way, ie AC box tweaks?

Thanks all
Mike

[djbnh]

This probably has been covered here before but..
I plan on running a dedicated line to my outlets for my system, can anyone make any recommedations?

What cable should I use ?
Should I upgrade the outlets beyond the Hubble hospital grade?
Should the breaker be installed in any special way, ie AC box tweaks?

Thanks all
Mike

Came up w/tons of hits using the "Search" function. Here's a thread I started that may answer some of your questions.  This link refers to the post of what I finally had done including installation cost of the lines.

Anywho, I'd consider keeping the digital and analog components apart, and going for 20A lines; there may be other and differing opinions.

Regarding outlets: I separately purchased cryoed P&S 8300 MRI (20A) hospital grade outlets, which worked within my budget constraints. Furthermore, my electrician had no problem allowing me to apply a coating of Walker SST on the bare wire ends going into the duplexes and panel [I note I use SST on electrical / IC / SC connectors throughout my system.].  Others audiophools swear by Porter Ports and different products. On a related note, VH Audio reports it will be discontinuing offering P&S hospital grade duplexes, because "Pass and Seymour has recently made it very difficult to source these receptacles at competitive prices, unless unreasonably large volumes are purchased. Too bad." I echo the "too bad", noting all my dealings with Chris VenHaus have been excellent.

As an aside, get an electrician that understands "phase".  My electrician from my church made installation on-time, low cost, precise, and painless. [I note my application required that wire be run the length of the house, which increased the amount of wire used/added somewhat to the installation time and cost. However, my basement ceiling at the time was easily accessible, so that mitigated what others might face in labor costs.] For me, the input/outcome = low cost/high return. YMMV. Best of luck with your decision making.

[satfrat]

PM sent,,,,,,

[mfsoa]

Hi Mike,
I've been thinking of making the call to my electrician too. In my case my breaker box is on the far side of the house, and I don't think I have enough open breakers anyway, so multiple dedicated lines are out.

Unless there's some good reason not too, I'm thinking of having a single 220V line run to the audio room for a Richard Gray Substation or something like it. Seems like this would give the cleanest supply of AC, and you can take it with you when you move!

Since want a line run already, maybe it should be a 220V to run an isolation transformer?

-MIke

[markC]

Depending on the brand/age of your breaker box, there are "mini breakers" available. These replace a singal existing breaker and provide 2 breakers in the same size package. I know that these are available for Square D, ITE, Siemens and Cutler Hammer to name a few. Another alternative is to install a "pony panel" or sub panel.

[BobRex]

Check with your local inspector before you install piggyback breakers.  I didn't and I had to tear them all out and install a subpanel when I finished a basement a few years ago.  Just because the manufacturer says you can do it, doesn't mean the locals will approve.

[rydenfan]

My electrician will be installing 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits on Wednesday. My plan is to run my Amp on one and my other gear on the rest. I am excited about it.

My question is, how important is it to use upgraded outlets instead of whatever my electrician will provide? If so what should I use that I could have delivered overnight?

[markC]

If your in a hurry, I'd start with industrial grade outlets, (the orange ones). They have isolated ground and provide a good, solid grip just like hospital grade. If you must upgrade, you can do it later. At least you won't be starting off with the $.79 crap. You can get them @ Home Depot, Lowes, etc. Cost should be about $7 or $8.

[rydenfan]

I went with some 20A Pass & Seymour from Chris at VH Audio.

[markC]

Even better! Let us know how the dedicated lines impact your system.

[rydenfan]

I certainly will! I am quite excited about it.

I also have a ground loop that is driving me pretty insane that I need to find...

[JLM]

When we built 3 years ago it included a listening room.  Regarding A/C:

We're located in a small rural sub-division (minimal industry, etc. sharing the substation).

House has dedicated transformer due to the 400 foot underground feed.

All new appliances, built-ins, furnace, etc.

Added a whole house surge protector (highly recommended).

All wiring is 20A/12 gauge, except for future hot tub which of course is heavier.

Ideally A/V circuits should be at the top of the panel (my are not, not sure if that really would help much).

Ran three dedicated circuits to the audio system, each with a single cryo'd hospital grade 20A Hubbell receptacle.

The three receptacles/circuits are grounded together, independent of the rest of the house.

The audio system is very simple.  One receptacle/circuit for each 40 watt monoblock and the third for transport/DAC.

Always work by the building/electrical code, its there for good reasons, and based on hundreds of years of millions of experiences.

Total additional cost: $100 for the receptacles; the rest was done for the flat rate quoted for the overall house.  I'd experienced power abberations (the technically correct term) at audio events, but never wherever I lived (newer ordinary house, newer apartment with independent panel, 50 year old house in small town with "scary" wiring).  So most of what we did can be attributed to a "while we were at it, we might as well" sort of mind set. 

[ctviggen]

The three receptacles/circuits are grounded together, independent of the rest of the house.

This is not up to code.