[audioengr]

If you want a great cap combination for signal coupling (one cap us usually not enough), try the V-Cap oil in 4.5uFd in parallel with the V-cap Teflon in .22uFd.  This will not break the bank, but is worth the money.  Just piggy-back the two caps and find space for them.

https://www.vhaudio.com/v-cap.html

Steve N.
Empirical Audio

[genjamon]

Thanks, Tyson. Could you describe the differences in any way. How does their character differ at line level? What I’ve found from the Jupiter’s is a remarkable combination of natural tone/warmth/body along with great detail/holography.  Do the Miflex have more or less of any of those particular traits compared to the Jupiter’s?

[Tyson]

Thanks, Tyson. Could you describe the differences in any way. How does their character differ at line level? What I’ve found from the Jupiter’s is a remarkable combination of natural tone/warmth/body along with great detail/holography.  Do the Miflex have more or less of any of those particular traits compared to the Jupiter’s?

Similar warmth/tone but more detailed and with a bigger soundstage.  These are not huge changes, as the Jupiters are already excellent.

[genjamon]

Thanks much, Tyson. Sounds like they could be worth it for sure. I love the sound of the Jupiter’s, but my issues have been with the leads snapping off on one, and with another started passing DC after a time. Now I’m running two mismatched sizes in the pre - the one good remaining cap from each of the two pair I’ve had.  It’s been workable, and I really don’t have cash for audio for the foreseeable future. But maybe I can sell something and get around to ordering these.

[bOTL]

For tube gear, there are LETHAL voltages present.
Not sure if there is a bleeder resistor, that will dissipate the high voltage after you turn off the DAC/AMP.
You need to be able to check to make sure the high voltage is gone before attempting to do anything.
Randy

Thanks Randy, I will discharge with my multi-meter or resistor.

  There is a site that reviews caps. www.humblehomemadehifi/cap.com
charles

Thanks Charles, Its a great source, however he seems to review them from passive crossover perspective not in coupling duty. I haven't found reviews on coupling caps.

If you want a great cap combination for signal coupling (one cap us usually not enough), try the V-Cap oil in 4.5uFd in parallel with the V-cap Teflon in .22uFd.  This will not break the bank, but is worth the money.  Just piggy-back the two caps and find space for them.

https://www.vhaudio.com/v-cap.html

Steve N.
Empirical Audio

Thank you Steve, so you recommend shunting these coupling caps? Would it maybe make sense to just add a better (smaller) cap to existing one? if its .22uF, maybe some of the Russian Teflons make sense (much cheaper than V-caps)?

Dueland Alexanders might fit. But the ones I used took over 500 hours to break in. And those are expensive.

Thanks OzarkTom, I need 2.2uF , Duelund seems to be up to 0.68uF.

I'm partial to Mundorf caps, especially for coupling duty.  I've tried other brands, but always wind up going back to Mundorf.  Their Silver/Gold caps are among the best sounding I've come across, and they hold up.   

Thanks Freo-1, Silver/Gold on purpose? You dont suggest oil caps in coupling or why such specific choice?

The thing I've found with Caps - if there's signal going through it, then you ought to use something made of copper.  I've tried copper caps from Audyn, Jupiter and Miflex.  IMO the Miflex caps the best of the lot and are also the cheapest.

And if you think about it, it makes sense.  You wouldn't make an interconnect or speaker wire out of aluminum or tin, would you?  If not, then why would you use signal caps with tin or aluminum?  Copper all the way baby!

Makes a lot of sense Tyson, but physically i dont seem to have enough space for something like Audyn true copper. its 65mm in diameter and 60mm in length and weighs 330g Any thoughts on Audyn True Silver, this one seems a bit smaller (25mm diameter and 60mm height so i could find a spot to mount them vertically).

[Tyson]

Makes a lot of sense Tyson, but physically i dont seem to have enough space for something like Audyn true copper. its 65mm in diameter and 60mm in length and weighs 330g Any thoughts on Audyn True Silver, this one seems a bit smaller (25mm diameter and 60mm height so i could find a spot to mount them vertically).

I don't like silver in the signal path.  But that's just me, plenty of others do. 

[audioengr]

Thank you Steve, so you recommend shunting these coupling caps? Would it maybe make sense to just add a better (smaller) cap to existing one? if its .22uF, maybe some of the Russian Teflons make sense (much cheaper than V-caps)?

Yes, parallel these caps.  Get rid of the existing one.  Garbage.  I have Russian Teflons.  The combo I showed you is just as good or better.  You still need two caps.

Silver can be great, but there is silver and there is silver.  It is not the same from every vendor.  Silver from Duelund is great.

Steve N.

[randytsuch]

Jon L started a really long thread here on coupling caps, but a summary can be found here

http://enjoythemusic.com/diy/0708/capacitor1.htm

Another article
http://www.laventure.net/tourist/caps.htm

FWIW, I'm building an amp right now, and decided to make the coupling caps easily accessible so I can swap out, and compare.
I expect it to come down to synergy, the circuit used, and personal preferences.

EDIT
I think Theta's, Mundorfs and Vitamin Q's (if you can find them) are relatively small compared to other caps on these lists.

Randy

[Rusty Jefferson]

......FWIW, I'm building an amp right now, and decided to make the coupling caps easily accessible so I can swap out, and compare.
I expect it to come down to synergy, the circuit used, and personal preferences....

This is spot on. Have been doing the same over the past several months on a Berning transformer coupled amp, with his knowledge.

Tony at Humble Hifi posted his evaluations based on using the capacitors only in speaker crossover circuits.  We feel some but not all the descriptions were accurate for the capacitors we purchased for our experiment using them as coupling capacitors, at least in the systems we used to evaluate. 

Taking recommendations on this is pointless for the above mentioned reason, system synergy.  If your system is dark and recessed, Mundorfs will open it up. If it's kind of bright or aggressive, one of the copper foil caps (without bypass) may smooth it out, but the Mundorfs will likely exacerbate it.  You really need to experiment, which is costly if using the fancy capacitors. Double blind testing showed us metallized polypropylene did a great job.  Consistently fairly neutral, and open, and reasonably priced. The best sound came from Duelund copper foil, with Duelund silver bypass, a pricey investment.

If you're on a tight budget and only want to make 1 purchase to see if changing them in your equipment makes an improvement, consider metallized Polypropylene like the Sonicaps. Good luck.

[Freo-1]

Check out this blog in regard to the description and rating score of the Mundorf Silver/Gold caps: (Hope this helps)

http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html

The Mundorfs with 1 watt PRP resistors are a very good sounding combo with tube amps.

[bOTL]

Taking recommendations on this is pointless for the above mentioned reason, system synergy.  If your system is dark and recessed, Mundorfs will open it up. If it's kind of bright or aggressive, one of the copper foil caps (without bypass) may smooth it out, but the Mundorfs will likely exacerbate it.  You really need to experiment, which is costly if using the fancy capacitors. Double blind testing showed us metallized polypropylene did a great job.  Consistently fairly neutral, and open, and reasonably priced. The best sound came from Duelund copper foil, with Duelund silver bypass, a pricey investment.

If you're on a tight budget and only want to make 1 purchase to see if changing them in your equipment makes an improvement, consider metallized Polypropylene like the Sonicaps. Good luck.

I would not call my system bright or dark. i think its fairly neutral. What I would be hoping to improve is detail and soundstage. which MKPs did you use in double blind?


 

[Rusty Jefferson]

I would not call my system bright or dark. i think its fairly neutral. What I would be hoping to improve is detail and soundstage. which MKPs did you use in double blind?

bOTL, just glancing back at recommendations made in this thread shows how much variation there is in what people hear, and like, and system variations.

We didn't try 20-30 different capacitors, maybe 7-8 different types (the metallized types we used were Urushi, KZK, Sonicap).  If the voltage requirements are within a range that works for you, I believe any of the reasonably priced (not boutique) metallized polypropylene caps on the HHHi-fi site list will give you a nice open soundstage. Unfortunately, you'll have to try different types in your gear to really know. It's like rolling tubes. I like Telefunken, you may like RCA. Until you try several types you'll never know and it's easy to randomly pick the wrong match for your system.

[randytsuch]

Maybe slightly off topic, but it would be great if we could arrange a cap swapping system.

My amp uses .22uf 600v caps, which I think is a pretty common value for tube amp coupling.

I have at least a few different types already, maybe I'll start a new thread and see if there is interest.

Randy

[audioengr]

I have tried a LOT of different caps because they were going in my DACs, including Sonicaps, Multicaps, V-Caps, Duelund, Jupiter, Fluorocarbon filled Russian caps and others.  There is no synergy if the design is decent.  A transparent cap is a transparent cap.

Steve N.

[bOTL]

Hi Steve,

Given that you make living out of knowing what actually sounds good through experience and testing, can you please recommend me what caps are head and shouders above others in terms of transparency? I understand V-cap are one, but what else in less stratospheric price range? Mundorf silver gold? Audyn true copper?