[this_is_vv]

If you're going to cross over the sub at such high frequencies you are probably better off using two and placing them next to the main speakers with the subs running in stereo instead of mono. For me, if the sub is x'ed over above ~60 Hz it becomes too easy to hear it's location.

I am thinking doing two of rhytmik...one on each side...and crossed at 150 both side...and left and right running independtly at 150 and below....

V

[this_is_vv]

hows this for a start....was talking to a a friend he told he has a a 10-inch subwoofer lying around...he gave it free to me...


http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-414

thinking to put in this
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Fierce-Audio---10%22-Single-Ported-Flat-Pack-Subwoofer-Enclosure/9854731.p

Then use it as my home theater receiver subwoofer....then add some amp later....

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-750

will this be ok for less then 150$???

V

[srb]

hows this for a start....was talking to a a friend he told he has a a 10-inch subwoofer lying around...he gave it free to me... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-404

Looks like a decent driver.  Are you sure the subwoofer is 10", as your link is to a 12" driver?

thinking to put in this ttp://www.bestbuy.com/site/Fierce-Audio---10%22-Single-Ported-Flat-Pack-Subwoofer-Enclosure/9854731.p

The given dimensions are for the flatpack, but it looks to be an equal dimension cube, and given a 13-3/4" outside dimension, it would roughly be a ~ 1 cu. ft. enclosure.  Specs for the driver (but again, I'm looking at your link for a 12" driver) for optimum cabinet size are .81 cu. ft. sealed and 2.58 cu. ft. ported.

Then use it as my home theater receiver subwoofer....then add some amp later....
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-750

You will still need an amp for use with your home theater receiver, as the subwoofer output is generally just an unamplified line output.

$12.99 is pretty cheap for a shipped flatpack enclosure (!), but when I saw the note that "This item cannot be sold in California", it made me think that the MDF must have some pretty potent formaldehyde outgassing.   

Steve

[this_is_vv]

Looks like a decent driver.  Are you sure the subwoofer is 10", as your link is to a 12" driver?

my bad fixed it...

The given dimensions are for the flatpack, but it looks to be an equal dimension cube, and given a 13-3/4" outside dimension, it would roughly be a ~ 1 cu. ft. enclosure.  Specs for the driver (but again, I'm looking at your link for a 12" driver) for optimum cabinet size are .81 cu. ft. sealed and 2.58 cu. ft. ported.

hows the dimension looks now?

You will still need an amp for use with your home theater receiver, as the subwoofer output is generally just an unamplified line output.

$12.99 is pretty cheap for a shipped flatpack enclosure, but when I saw the note that "This item cannot be sold in California", it made me think that it must have some pretty potent formaldehyde outgassing.   

Steve

i think i will get the amp or 500w amp should be fine...eveything cost will be 200$...

[srb]

my bad fixed it...
hows the dimension looks now?

Ok, now for the 10" driver the optimum cabinet sizes are .34 cu. ft. sealed and 1.05 cu. ft. ported, so you would be pretty close to the right size for a ported enclosure, minus some volume for the space the amp would occupy, but still in the ballpark.

You could try to paint or seal the interior MDF, but of course couldn't do anything about the carpeted exterior, but if glue was used on the total MDF surface to fasten the carpet, that would probably qualify as being sealed.

It it all works out for you, you won't find a new or used $200 subwoofer with that quality of driver.

Steve

[WireNut]

HI VV.

I haven't been able to read the whole thread yet but consider building or purchasing a Push-pull/isobaric subwoofer. If you or a friend have some loudspeaker software you can take two identical drivers and mount them in a push-pull or isobaric enclosure. You should find that they will go lower then the same 2 drivers facing forward on a larger baffle. You will lose 3db in efficiency in a push-pull enclosure but the lower 3db down point of a push-pull/isobaric enclosure may startle you. Also another benefit of a push-pull/isobaric enclosure can be a smaller size enclosure with lower 3db output compared to the same 2 drivers facing forward.










   

[this_is_vv]

Ok, now for the 10" driver the optimum cabinet sizes are .34 cu. ft. sealed and 1.05 cu. ft. ported, so you would be pretty close to the right size for a ported enclosure, minus some volume for the space the amp would occupy, but still in the ballpark.

You could try to paint or seal the interior MDF, but of course couldn't do anything about the carpeted exterior, but if glue was used on the total MDF surface to fasten the carpet, that would probably qualify as being sealed.

It it all works out for you, you won't find a new or used $200 subwoofer with that quality of driver.

Steve

Thanks Steve for all the help.....

V

[this_is_vv]

HI VV.

I haven't been able to read the whole thread yet but consider building or purchasing a Push-pull/isobaric subwoofer. If you or a friend have some loudspeaker software you can take two identical drivers and mount them in a push-pull or isobaric enclosure. You should find that they will go lower then the same 2 drivers facing forward on a larger baffle. You will lose 3db in efficiency in a push-pull enclosure but the lower 3db down point of a push-pull/isobaric enclosure may startle you. Also another benefit of a push-pull/isobaric enclosure can be a smaller size enclosure with lower 3db output compared to the same 2 drivers facing forward.
 

Can you give me some examples would be easier if i see some...