[this_is_vv]

Need a pair of the subwoofer....thinking not to spend not more then 400$ per piece and that include the driver and  amp.....and any enclosure and woods etc....

any recommendation...

i like to get a good response as down as possible...i will be using for movies (add a switch) or adding as extra sub for my 3 way active speakers....

V

[jackman]

There are so many excellent and inexpensive commercial subs out there, it's hard to DIY one with equivalent performance for less money.  For instance, the SVS sealed 12" sub uses a great Peerless XXLS driver and high quality amp for $500 shipped.  The driver and amp will cost you close to the price of the completed sub and you get a warranty.  I would look at those.

Plus DIY subs have crappy resale. The svs should have good resale.  Best of luck.

[this_is_vv]

There are so many excellent and inexpensive commercial subs out there, it's hard to DIY one with equivalent performance for less money.  For instance, the SVS sealed 12" sub uses a great Peerless XXLS driver and high quality amp for $500 shipped.  The driver and amp will cost you close to the price of the completed sub and you get a warranty.  I would look at those.

Plus DIY subs have crappy resale. The svs should have good resale.  Best of luck.

good to know...any other you recommend...one i saw 12inch i think it is going for 650$...

V

[wushuliu]

There are so many excellent and inexpensive commercial subs out there, it's hard to DIY one with equivalent performance for less money.  For instance, the SVS sealed 12" sub uses a great Peerless XXLS driver and high quality amp for $500 shipped.  The driver and amp will cost you close to the price of the completed sub and you get a warranty.  I would look at those.

Plus DIY subs have crappy resale. The svs should have good resale.  Best of luck.

On the other hand a diy subwoofer could give you performance of a retail that costs much much more. As for resale subwoofers are always in demand because they are easy to build. The *completed* build may be hard to sell but the amp and subwoofer would be very easy. Given that the cabinet materials are potentially more inexpensive (compared to say speakers), there would not be a huge loss there unless exotic materials/veneers are used.

PE has premade cabinets to start

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-speaker-cabinets/289

Many great subwoofer choices

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofers/14

and amps

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/subwoofer-plate-amplifiers/332

[rajacat]

http://www.diysoundgroup.com/subwoofer-flatpacks-2/sealed-subwoofer-flatpacks/3-sub-flat-pack.html  $90
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-190&utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default $140

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=301-508 $140

$370 for the basic components.
Probably add on another $100 for small parts, paint, etc.

$470 plus shipping for a quality 15" sub. Somewhat less for 12"

-Roy

[jackman]

This one- http://www.svsound.com/subwoofers/sealed-box/sb-1000

Hard or impossible to beat this one, even with DIY.  The driver and amp are very good and you don't have to make any sawdust.  That price is delivered as well.  I'd get the SVS if I was in your situation.

[srb]

For instance, the SVS sealed 12" sub uses a great Peerless XXLS driver and high quality amp for $500 shipped.

The $649 (shipped) SVS SB12-NSD is said to use a variant of the Peerless XXLS cast frame driver, but the $499 (shipped) SVS SB-1000 uses a less expensive unknown stamped steel frame driver.

Steve

[jackman]

Steve,
Thanks, I thought they both used the same driver.  If the 1000 uses a cheap stamped frame woofer, I'd gong or the better one with the Peerless.  The Peerless is a great driver.

Did they switch drivers?  I thought the cheap one used the good driver as well. This is disappointing.

[randytsuch]

I build a DIY Rythmik a while ago, but if I was doing it again I would probably just buy this one
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/clearance.html

Given this or the SVS, I know that I would choose a servo sub.

Randy

[rajacat]

I build a DIY Rythmik a while ago, but if I was doing it again I would probably just buy this one
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/clearance.html

Given this or the SVS, I know that I would choose a servo sub.

Randy

+1  I'd choose the servo sub too. That's a good deal. You're getting the cabinet for free ...so to speak.

[this_is_vv]

I build a DIY Rythmik a while ago, but if I was doing it again I would probably just buy this one
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/clearance.html

Given this or the SVS, I know that I would choose a servo sub.

Randy

May I ask what's the difference in normal subwoofer and servo subwoofer

Also how high this can go because of it can go high around 150 I can get rid of my ae ib 15 I am using for lows in active 3 way

[randytsuch]

May I ask what's the difference in normal subwoofer and servo subwoofer

Also how high this can go because of it can go high around 150 I can get rid of my ae ib 15 I am using for lows in active 3 way

In a servo sub, they add a sensor which measures the output of the driver.  There is a circuit the monitors the input versus the output and corrects are required, at least that's how I interpret their explanation
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/DirectServo.html

A normal sub has no feedback.

Randy

[richidoo]

A servo sub has a feedback mechanism so the amp can correct the cone if it deviates from the amps input signal. Most big brands have some kind of servo system on their top models. Rythmik's method uses a 2nd coil on the driver motor as a sensor, in an elegant, inexpensive, good sounding, all analog correction scheme.  The standard aluminum cone Rythmik cones don't reach 150Hz, but if you opt for the GR Research driver with the lightweight paper cone, then you will be able to crossover up to 150Hz.

[randytsuch]

I should add that the sub I linked to is ported, and probably better suited for HT.

I would go sealed for music, which means more money.

But most of the less expensive subs are really geared to HT applications, and asking a low priced sub to reach 150Hz for music is probably not going to happen


Randy

[cody69]

+1 for GR Reasearch Servo Subs
I really like it to fill in the bass in a music system.

[this_is_vv]

well my 3way is using AE iB15 active crossover at 150 and below and powered by ncore....but i do miss the punch in it.....i think and have measured i am good till 55-60 below that i have to use lot of boost etc...so i am looking to add the missing subwoofer there...now if i can get somthing that can take care till 150hz i can get rid of 150hz....

so thats all looking for honestly...

also may be stupid question but i heard all the blu ray movies with separate channel for subwoofer and i dont have any in the house so i asked for that reason as well..

[rajacat]

How about the Rythmik 8" servo sub?
They'll cover 20Hz to 300Hz. The recommended sealed box is 0.7 cu. ft. Should be cheap and easy to build that little box. Make it downward firing so no cosmetic need for a recessed driver.
http://gr-research.com/sw-12-08-1.aspx
http://gr-research.com/a370peq.aspx

[DaveC113]

If you're going to cross over the sub at such high frequencies you are probably better off using two and placing them next to the main speakers with the subs running in stereo instead of mono. For me, if the sub is x'ed over above ~60 Hz it becomes too easy to hear it's location.

[srb]

How about the Rythmik 8" servo sub?  http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=295-190&utm_campaign=bazaarvoice&utm_medium=SearchVoice&utm_source=AskAndAnswer&utm_content=Default

Your link is to "Dayton Audio DVC385-88 15" DVC Series Subwoofer"

Steve

[rajacat]

Whoops!
http://gr-research.com/sw-12-08-1.aspx