[bdp24]

Great, thanks Ed. So you have the x/o frequency knob fully clockwise? With the OB shelving circuit in the amp, that bumps the x/o frequency up to what---240Hz or so? And you use the 12dB/octave filter setting? Thanks again.

[ebag4]

Sorry Eric, please take another look.  I posted an old pic initially, I corrected it when I realized it.  I do not have the crossover all the way clockwise, that is a bit heavy with the wedgie although it worked better with the V1.  The second pic is old as well but those settings haven't changed.

Best,
Ed

[bdp24]

Got it, thanks Ed.

[skalos]

Hello,

I am considering building something close to this for my N3S speakers.

Do you have any listening impressions to share? 

Also, can you share the outside dimensions of the woofer tower without a base attached, specifically width across the front and back, total depth, total height, etc.?

Thanks,

Steven

[bdp24]

Hello,

I am considering building something close to this for my N3S speakers.

Do you have any listening impressions to share? 

Also, can you share the outside dimensions of the woofer tower without a base attached, specifically width across the front and back, total depth, total height, etc.?

Thanks,

Steven

Steven---On the GR Research website the 12" woofers are listed on the products page. When you click on either of the OB models (8ohm or 16ohm), there is a line in the specs saying something to the effect of "Click here for plans for an H-frame". When you do, the plans for building the frame for a pair of woofers will come up, with all dimensions.

[mlundy57]

Hello,

I am considering building something close to this for my N3S speakers.

Do you have any listening impressions to share? 

Also, can you share the outside dimensions of the woofer tower without a base attached, specifically width across the front and back, total depth, total height, etc.?

Thanks,

Steven

Steven,

My Wedge shaped cabinets for use with 12" drivers are 6"W at the front, 12"W in the rear, 17-1/4" deep and 28" tall. You can change the dimensions to fit your needs. If you want to place and N3S on top you would want the front to be at least 8-1/2" wide to match the N3S. If you left the depth at 17-1/4" that would make the width across the back about 14-1/2".

However, the wedge cabinet is an open baffle design and may not be the best match for the N3S, which is a sealed box, depending on what you are looking for. Being a sealed box the N3S can be placed very close to the front wall while the wedge cabinet has to be at least 3 feet from the front wall since it is open baffle.

The Best Speaker Stand Ever might be a better fit for the N3S. Here is a picture of these stands with X-CS Encores.



These stands were built with two 8" drivers each and the amps are built into the stands.

Another possible downside to the OB wedge base would come into play if you planned on using them with home theater as well as music. This is because you cannot connect the LFE channel (subwoofer out) from an AVR to OB subs. The extremely low frequencies of the sound effects, especially in action movies, will overdrive the subs. OB subs are designed for music, not home theater. You can use OB subs in a home theater setup if you have the OB subs connected to the main front channels and a sealed or ported sub(s) designed for home theater connected to the LFE channel.  You would set the main speakers to Large/Full Range and the subwoofer to LFE only. This way the HT sub(s) will not be playing for music and will only produce sound when there is some type of special effect encoded on the LFE (.1) channel.

Mike

[ebag4]

Hello,

I am considering building something close to this for my N3S speakers.

Do you have any listening impressions to share? 

Also, can you share the outside dimensions of the woofer tower without a base attached, specifically width across the front and back, total depth, total height, etc.?

Thanks,

Steven

Hi Steven, I will share my observations.

A bit of background, I have lived with the 12" servo subs for several years now, I built a pair of the original "V" series speaker, the V1, it used a pair of the servos per speaker in an "H" alignment.  My room is small, 12.5'x10.5'x8'.  The OBs give outstanding bass without any hint of boom.

I built the wedge bass 2x12" units for my wedgies to sit on.  Because of this I wanted to keep the profile as small as possible.  From where the actual wedge starts, I am at a 6" exterior dimension which includes 1.5" x2 sides, that puts the interior dimension at 3".  I mention this because I not only built it as small as possible horizontally, but also in the vertical plane to get the tweeter as close to ear level as I could. The actual base height is 26.5" with a 1.5" top and 3/4" bottom, before I add the 1" base ( not included in height measurement).  The bass driver mounting rims overlap the top and bottom and on either side of the middle brace. Another semi critical point is that my woofers are inset 3/4", costing me 1.5" across.

Why did I go into all of that boring detail you ask?   Because I believe it is too small.  The final dimension front to back is 18", that includes a 3/4" board across the front but not the additional 3/4" board painted red.

The wedge has greater output, not a huge difference, but heard and seen by where you set the gain dial on the servo amp.  For my small space however, it added boom, I could dial it out but at the end of the day, I prefer the "H frame.  The "H" frame has better detail IMO.  I am going to build an "H" frame and try to figure out a way to make it look like something that works with the wedgie, but even if not beautiful, the sound wins out.   I am currently using the "H" frames in my V1s.

Best,
Ed