Recommendations for designs for an OB Subwoofer for my dedicated 2 Channel

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undertowogt1

Hello AC members

I am looking for some recommendations for designs for an Open Baffle Subwoofer for my dedicated 2 channel audio Setup. Currently I love the sound of my modest 2 channel system, except it seems to be lacking in bass. It feels like something is missing.

My system
Laptop > 24 bit 192 USB Audio Interface
Project Debute III > Audio technician MLa400 Cart on Sand filled Turntable stand.
Bottlehead Reduction Tube Phono Preamp
Promitheus Reference TVC.
Yorkville YSMp1 Active Nearfield Monitors on Sand filled Speaker Stands.
My Room Dimension is 11 by 15 rectangular room.


I enjoy the clarity, detail and flat response of my Active Nearfield monitors and do not want to move to floor standing speakers at the moment. I am looking for a sub that will complement the nearfields and not add too much boomy bass and add muddiness. I figure the open Baffle design would not come with that “boxy” sound, I would like a sub with defined / tight Bass. The Amp for the Sub would be fed out of the second output of my TVC.

Should I build 2 subs and run stereo sub woofers?
Is it a bad idea to go with an Open Baffle sub?

This would be my first time building a speaker but I am fine with basic electronics and wood working. My budget would be around 300 to 500 bucks for a DIY amp(s), Crossover(s) and OB Sub(s), but would not want to go much north of that.
Any recommendations or thoughts?

Thanks you in advance for any info.

jparkhur

Do a single 12" from GR Research and Rhythmik Audio.   under 500 and easy to build the correct ob cabinet


undertowogt1

Do a single 12" from GR Research and Rhythmik Audio.   under 500 and easy to build the correct ob cabinet

A 12 inch GR sub woofer coupled with the Rythmik Direct Servo Subwoofer Amp A370PEQ could be a good option for me, thank you for you recommendation.

matevana

It's generally easier to address room issues with two subs than one. And if you cross them low enough, you can parallel the drivers and run them from a single plate amp. I currently run two 10" bass drivers in H frames and couldn't be happier. They are very musical; attack and decay are extremely fast. 

Brad

For your budget, you could do a single Hawthorne 15" Augie and a Crown amp to drive them (new)

If you're willing to go used, you could do a stereo pair.

mcgsxr

Lots of good ideas so far.

Important to understand that conventional wisdom states that you will "get" about 1/4 of the bass of a similar sub in a box when you implement OB bass drivers.  This leads some to run more than 1, or go with a larger driver.

I would agree with the Crown XLS amp recommendation - for $200 or so you get a LOT of power, and a built in Xover.

I have had success with a single 12 car woofer, a pair of 12 car woofers, a 15 inch woofer - all on OB.

I would not discount used car subs (dual voice coil is especially desirable) as they will have robust spiders and surrounds.  I would also consider a pro audio 12 or 15 - Eminence Alpha's are often seen on OB.

Tyson

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I'm going to second the GR Research OB Servo sub suggestion.  It's the best bass solution out there, might as well go for the best.  Start with one, that might be all you ever need.  If you need a 2nd one, buy/build it later as needed.

S Clark

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I'm going to second the GR Research OB Servo sub suggestion.  It's the best bass solution out there, might as well go for the best.  Start with one, that might be all you ever need.  If you need a 2nd one, buy/build it later as needed.
Another vote for the GR servo.  OB is best, but to get more volume you could build a sealed box for one driver, and buy a second one later.  At that time, make a H frame OB.   Or, like Tyson said, just bite the bullet and do it right with two drivers to start with. 

undertowogt1

Another vote for the GR servo.  OB is best, but to get more volume you could build a sealed box for one driver, and buy a second one later.  At that time, make a H frame OB.   Or, like Tyson said, just bite the bullet and do it right with two drivers to start with.

I am also leaning towards this option after everyone's recommendations and doing some research on the net. I do like to spend my money wisely and do things properly the first time. I do think a good option would be to start with one Sub and save the second sub for another project down the road powering it from the same Direct Servo Subwoofer A370PEQ amp. I aso like the idea of making the Amp enclosure to match my other DIY system projects as well.

So how does one go about figuring out the size of the Baffle. I have the skills to make the speaker itself but have absolutely NO knowledge of how to design an open baffle Subwoofer. Any experience, website or info would be appreciated.

I see on the GR Research Website plans for and H and W frame Baffle Box, Is it best to have the Subs together in one Baffle Box or make two seperate baffles?


I have heard that OB Subs can be a little more directional compared to enclosed Subs. My listening position for my system is standing position a lot of the time, as it is in my Billiard Room / Man Cave and I listen to tunes as I play pool.

Odal3

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See here for a good starting point.
http://www.audiocircle.com/index.php?topic=127533.0

Also note that Jay is offering a cnc cut flat pack. See separate threed in the gr circle

I just got all my drivers and amp for one dual h frame and am ready to start building it. Note that there are different amp options and drivers.

S Clark

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Ohhh, Ohhhh,  I know the answer to this one!  Don't bother to research it, just download a set of plans from Danny's website.
 
Also, be aware that with a servo amp, you cannot have long runs of wire, so running two subs from one amp will require they be fairly close.  How close? Ask Danny or Brian Ding.

mcgsxr

Fellow pool player and listener here.  I notice no difference seated vs standing for bass - other than some bass nodes in the room vs at the listening spot.

Break and run 'em!  :thumb:

undertowogt1

So............... I have read that it can be better to run 2 subs in stereo instead of summing the signal to mono. Why would I put the subs in a W baffle box or a H Baffle box? Can I just make 2 separate baffles? Are these baffle boxes designed to combat phase cancellation, whats the deal with those?

sonicxtc

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Quote
For your budget, you could do a single Hawthorne 15" Augie and a Crown amp to drive them (new)

If you're willing to go used, you could do a stereo pair.

+1 on the Augies. Hawthorne's gear is great and the Augies are a bargain for what they deliver. I rarely go out of my way to mention industry guys, but Darrell Hawthorne is a real gem. Contact him.

You'll hear bass like you may have never heard before.

Good luck.

undertowogt1

Thank you everyone for your experience and advice within the thread, you have givin me a great place to start. I am in the very early stages of learning about OB speakers in general, let alone how they are made and designing them. I do however know that I like the simplicity and look of the designs.

I came across this website with descriptions of different OB Sub designs that is very helpful.

http://www.hifizine.com/2012/12/subwoofer-origami/

I think I will start with a single driver in the H, N or I frame. I will wait a see if I feel the need to run stereo subs



« Last Edit: 6 May 2016, 03:56 pm by undertowogt1 »

Poultrygeist

I've enjoyed these workhorse H-frame Alphas for a number of years now. The fact that you can try a variety of different drivers on top makes them very flexible. 


undertowogt1

I've enjoyed these workhorse H-frame Alphas for a number of years now. The fact that you can try a variety of different drivers on top makes them very flexible. 



Those subs look sweet Poultrygeist. Nice work