[azryan]

If you look at the 'footprint' of the cabinet it's ~12.25" wide and ~15" deep.
Add in a bit wider base and it's not really taking up that much room 'cept vertically (obviously).

Pretty much any bookshelf or floor standing speaker even if FAR smaller is gonna take up about the same floor space.

I've never seen anyone use the 'space' above a floor standing speaker that they'd lose if the speaker were ~6' tall.

The height of the Alphas DO dominate a room though. Gotta decide if you like their looks in your room.
IMO a beautiful veneer (and any will match the all matte black drivers) that matches the tone of the room will make them very impressive to look at.
No one (incl. women) has thought our Alphas were anything but great looking.

Bottom line -can't hide 'em, but don't want/need to.
 
They're better off in a large room in most cases with a longer listening seat than you might be used to (say ~12-14') but can work in a smaller room too with the right wall treatments and bass mang. x-over section that will tap down the bottom end that could otherwise overload a small room.

'Optimal' is usually hard for most people to get to but you can still do great without everything being perfect.

I've had them ~7' apart and sat about 10' away when I first finished mine and they worked really well like that.

After the woofers had time to soften up/break in... the soundstage just became 'grander' with them pulled apart and myself sitting further away.

More 'air' between instruments, orchestras that image more like the size of a huge orchestra, etc...

[GaryW]

Gary,

Thank you for posting the pictures. I have a good idea now as to what the construction will be like.

The best to you,

Dave

Cool, hope it goes smoothly for you. These pictures probably represent about the 35% mark for time invested. You could decrease the build time a bunch with the pre-fabbed front and back baffles mentioned in a later post. The prep and finish time is still considerable. Mine aren't perfect but are very, very nice. I get lots of comments on how nice they turned out, rather than how big they are, which is very nice. And, of course, everyone is blown away by the sound.

If I could offer one word of advice, build "inside - out" meaning start with the vertical baffle that goes front-to-back and attach the pieces that go side-to-side, and finally the side panels. I went "outside - in" which made attaching the inner pieces a challenge.

Gary

[GaryW]

They're better off in a large room in most cases with a longer listening seat than you might be used to (say ~12-14') but can work in a smaller room too with the right wall treatments and bass mang. x-over section that will tap down the bottom end that could otherwise overload a small room.

'Optimal' is usually hard for most people to get to but you can still do great without everything being perfect.

I've had them ~7' apart and sat about 10' away when I first finished mine and they worked really well like that.

As usual, azryan, you've nailed things well. In my previous room, the speakers were about 10' apart, but the listening position was only 8' away (ran outta room width). Imaging was great, but the soundstage was artificially wide. My current room is quite a bit smaller, and I have the speakers almost exactly as you describe - 7' apart, with the listening position about 10' back. I miss the wide soundstage, but imaging and depth are still very nice. What wall teatments would help? Both speakers are about a foot out from the back wall and the left speaker is 1 foot from a side wall. The right speaker is next to the dining room, so lots of open space on that side.

Gary

[dbarnet]

If I could offer one word of advice, bui ...

I am having Craig at Craig@stonepanels.com  CNC The panels for me Danny gave me his e-mail. Looking forward to getting started.  

I am now making drawings of my room to send to  Acoustic Sciences Corporation (ASC) for evaluation and recomendations on room treatment.

I am really haveing lot's of fun and I appriciagte all the help you guys have given me.

The best to you

Dave

[azryan]

I forgot to mention.... AWESOME veneer Gary. Perfect match to that ent. center.
Perfect example of what I was saying about how it's not that hard to make them fit into a room and look outstanding.

-I miss the wide soundstage, but imaging and depth are still very nice. What wall teatments would help? Both speakers are about a foot out from the back wall and the left speaker is 1 foot from a side wall. The right speaker is next to the dining room, so lots of open space on that side.

IMO the first step in room treatments is to figure out what the prob is. Sounds like you don't really have a prob. -which is always a good place to be.

You said you're getting good imaging and depth -and it's simply 'cuz the speakers are closer together that the width is narrower and nothing you can do about that if the space doesn't allow it.

BTW... sometimes that WIDE width sounds awesome on stuff like a full orchestra, but sometimes playing say rock music you 'see' the drummer has a kit that's a BIT wider than realistic. heheh Funny as hell to 'see' a drum roll pan ~11'!!! heheh In some ways it sounds cool, but uh... not THAT realistic! hehehe

Anyway... the description of 1' from a solid wall and the other speaker w/ no reflection does seem like it'd normally be something you'd want to hit.

Compressed fiberglass is about the best broadband absorber and can look nice if you cover it in a light/breathable cloth that matches your wall. That'll do a lot to 'erase' that wall so close to one speaker.

Symmetry is typically key to best imaging.

Also it seems like Danny favors a listening distance a little longer than the speaker's width if you can do that.

Being a line source you have a lot more distance available to still be in the 'nearfield'.

If you can do it that's how you can make that soudstage LARGE yet still image sharp.

[mnapuran]

I am having Craig at Craig@stonepanels.com  CNC The panels for me Danny gave me his e-mail. Looking forward to getting started.  

Dave

May I inquire as to where you got the CAD drawings for all the pieces?  I'd be interested in getting a copy!

[Danny Richie]

The CAD drawings were made by Craig Carroll based on the printed cabinet drawings and the drivers that I sent him.

[mnapuran]

The CAD drawings were made by Craig Carroll based on the printed cabinet drawings and the drivers that I sent him.

Okay.. next question, how much for him to CNC all the panels and provide them ready to assemble?  

[Danny Richie]

E-mail him and see.

[azryan]

Okay.. next question, how much for him to CNC all the panels and provide them ready to assemble?

Seriously, beyond the face it's a snap to cut the rest. Took one day to cut all the pieces.
There's no advanced cabinet building stuff like dados or rabbiting or anything -like someone building a dresser or a china hutch or something.

Just right angle cuts and wood glue.
A few zips with a router and you're done.
It's just a simple box. Big and heavy, but not complicated.

I let my wife cut some panels and do some routing so she felt like she was part of 'it'. She was scared she'd mess something up but a monkey can do it blind when you've got straight edges clamped off, etc.

I... uh... didn't tell HER a monkey could do it though! hehe

Anyway... I bet the shipping charge would be a large cost vs. buying the sheets of MDF in town yourself.

I bet you could easily buy a circ. saw and router, bits', clamps, etc.. for the savings on that shipping cost to have the full CNC'd cabinet sheets shipped to you. if you didn't have that stuff.

The pre-made face sounds like a great idea though and I bet cheap to ship the pair.

[mnapuran]

Seriously, beyond the face it's a snap to cut the rest. Took one day to cut all the pieces.
There's no advanced cabinet building stuff like dados or rabbiting or anything -like someone building a dresser or a china hutch or something.

I have plenty of wood working experience, and tools... that had nothing to do with my question.  And as for shipping, the guy is in my town... which is why I asked pricing.  I also have local CNC routers nearby as well, but if he already had done these, I assumed to had the files, setup, etc. and would save cost of me having someone else CNC them.