[jtwrace]

Told ya!   

[richandy]

After reading all the comments, I decided to redo the crossover in my New Epos Epic 2. It was not surprising to see that some cheap unknown Chinese caps and electrolytic were used, due to the manufacturer's price point .
I ordered some Mundorf Supremes, a pair of Solen PPE,  four Vishay 1837 and some Neotech solid copper hookup wire (18 and 20 AWG).

Due to the size of the newly acquired parts compare to the original, installing them was interesting to say the least.

How does it sound? Well, I left the electrolytic in one and bypass it with some Auricap I had, and setup the other with the Auricap bypassing the Solen. Everything else is the same, the Vishay bypassing the Mundorfs. The Speaker with the Solen had more details, better low end tightness. The top end is a massive improvement over the original. With both having the same parts, the bass is deep and tight, the mid is very detailed.
All in all the upgrade is such a hugh improvement from the original, that I can't wait until all the parts have broken in.
When I compare the Epos to my Focal 807V, the Focal top is brighter, it could be that the Epos have soft dome tweeter, but the Epos has better bass and midrange. I can listen to the Epos now with out a sub, can't do it with the Focal. When I need to go reel deep then I will turn the sub on. I also listen to the new Epos Elan 10 and found that the upgrades made it better in all departments.
The equipment used are:
Modified Jolida 502P Amp - with KT120
Modified Jolida Fusion pre-amp
Modified Jolida JD9
Home made FlAC transport into a Musical Fidelity M1DAC
Speakers comparison, Focal 807v and the Epos Epic 2.
All the Jolidas modifications were done by me.

[wushuliu]

When I compare the Epos to my Focal 807V, the Focal top is brighter.

Stereophile has measured both speakers. The Focal seems brighter because it is, exhibiting the 'smileyface' response of bass and treble. The Focal tweeter has a sharp spike around 14k and is just generally brighter, meanwhile the Epos has a slight rolloff the more you listen off axis. The Epos seems the flatter speaker overall. That Focal spike and treble would probably drive me crazy.

[WireNut]

 Glad to hear it all worked out.    That electrolytic had to go. 

 How you like the JD9?

[richandy]

  How you like the JD9?

I love it. It is one of the best bargains around before their price increase. I remember reading about your mods to the JD9. It inspired me along with others to buy and mod one. That then lead me to buy and mod the other Jolidas I have.
I must add that for the price point, the 502P, is one of the best bargains for a tube amp out there. After my mods, in which I change out every resistors in the signal path with carbon film and metal film in the power area, and all the capacitors, plus all the signal wires, it competes extremely with amps cost twice or three times as much. I Compared it to Conrad Johnson, Jolida own more expensive amp, and I am very happy with it. Even my wife likes the sound.

[richandy]

Stereophile has measured both speakers. The Focal seems brighter because it is, exhibiting the 'smileyface' response of bass and treble. The Focal tweeter has a sharp spike around 14k and is just generally brighter, meanwhile the Epos has a slight rolloff the more you listen off axis. The Epos seems the flatter speaker overall. That Focal spike and treble would probably drive me crazy.

I agree, that is why I have them in the home theater. When you run Audyssey MultiEQ XT32, it tames the spike and treble brightness.

The rolloff with the Epos is correct. That is why speaker placement is critical for them, along with a good stand.

[cheap-Jack]

Hi.

Hi,
I am thinking of replacing the capacitors in my crossover. Does it matter if I replace a 5.6uf 250v with a 5.6uf 400, 600 or 630 (v) capacitor?
Will it cause any ill effects?

Higher voltage rating of the replacement caps does not matter at all. Only disadvantage is you are going to spend more money for higher voltage & the cap will be more bulky to put on the same place on the X'over circuit board. Unless you already got some caps of larger voltage rating, otherwise you do NOT need to do so as the AC signal voltage is very low.

Make sure you replace the old 'lytic caps with film capacitors. This will improve the sound big bigtime.
I replaced the lousy cheapie tiny non-polar 'lytic caps of my KEF 2-way bookshelvers with metallized
polypropylene film caps of higher voltage rating. It sounds so much better, particularly HF.

Since the new PP film caps are very much more bulky that the lousy stock 'lytic caps, I had to rebuild the whole X-over network on a large fibreglass PC board to hold the new film caps.

Take caution in  design-build a loudspeaker X'-over network PC board due to the large signal currents flowing thru the VERY thin (standard 1.4 mil or 0.0014" thick) copper traces to drive the loudspeaker drivers. Very unlike normal amp PC boards to handle very small signal currents.

My way of design-building a loudspeaker X'-over PC board is to provide the largest surface area of copper
traces possible to provide the large signal currents to flow thru.

c-J

[this_is_vv]

Kinda little tangent...have any one heard about the Russian PIO capacitors....see some real good review and vost benefit around the web.,...

V

[mesmer]

Kinda little tangent...have any one heard about the Russian PIO capacitors....see some real good review and vost benefit around the web.,...

V

Now i have the same problem as u do.
What have a tried as caps for Epos m12.2
K73-16 cap - just crap
Mundorf Evo oil - sounds over detailed and steel/glass like, huge imaging though
Clarity Cap Px - has no sound above 17khz or smth,
and finaly Russian MKV(мкв) capacitor - sound dope, very natural, but dark, U might wanna give it a shot, they are rather rare and pricy. ITS not PIo, its Tin foil in waxю Them looks like these

Also FT3 should be good but even more price and their cases are huge.

Plz if anyone have good solution to "just solder it and forget about this topic" plz tell us.