[Ryanz]

Hello All,

I would appreciate any advice/opinions anyone could give someone who is fairly new to the higher end audio field. After many years of hard work and the will power to save enough money I finally purchased the home audio system of my dreams, for now that is. First of all, let me list my equipment, so you have some knowledge of my system. I have a Rotel RSX-1550 A/V receiver, a Bryston 4B SST2, an NAD C 515BEE CD Player, a Sony XDR-F1HD Radio Tuner, a PS3 Slim, an XBOX Elite, Paradigm Studio 100's V5, a Paradigm Studio CC-490 Center Channel Speaker, Paradigm Monitor ADP-190 Surround Speakers, Tara Lab Prime M1800 Speaker Cables for the 100's, Audioquest Type 4 for the 490, Audioquest Sidewinders connecting the Rotel to the Bryston and the NAD CD Player, and a 42" LCD LG HDTV. My first question is about the amp. Is it best to let the Bryston warm up before listening to music? Does the sound quality get better as it warms up? Should I keep the Bryston on or off? What does a preamp do? Is a preamp only as good as the music source? Is there a big difference in sound quality with the more expensive CD players, and again is the sound quality only as good the CD player? I have many more questions, but I don't want to go overboard on this first post. And again any advice/opinions are greatly appreciated. Thank you.

[Napalm]

Hi Ryanz,

Here are some random answers:

1) 4B warm-up; keep it turned off; it works great immediately after you start it; if you have any doubts start it 5-10 minutes earlier.

2) a preamp basically does what your Receiver does - it will allow you to control the volume; there are differences in quality between preamps

3) the 3 crucial factors for satisfactory listening are speaker position / room characteristics / how well the CD was recorded in the studio; you may spend some time moving the speakers around and listening to the effect it makes on the sound; it's free to do

4) a more expensive CD player can enhance the sound, but not beyond what was recorded on the CD in the studio; so if you have a poorly recorded CD nothing will help; learn to select those that sound good.

5) spend time listening, get familiar with your system, and keep asking questions;

You have great gear. From now on it's finding out how to best use it.

Nap. 

[robb]

Hi--I purchased my 4bsst2 in October and so far  this amp sounds it's best after 24 hours of being turned on.  Higher frequencies are much cleaner and crisper; transients seem quicker.

[Napalm]

And the best advice I can give you: resist to any temptation to "upgrade" your system for at least the next 6 months. You'll need that time to become familiar with your system. Otherwise it can spiral into an endless expense that leads nowhere. There will be many people trying to sell you voodoo stuff that does magic to the sound. Resist them 6 months.

nap. 

[alexone]

Hi Ryanz,

Here are some random answers:

1) 4B warm-up; keep it turned off; it works great immediately after you start it; if you have any doubts start it 5-10 minutes earlier.

2) a preamp basically does what your Receiver does - it will allow you to control the volume; there are differences in quality between preamps

3) the 3 crucial factors for satisfactory listening are speaker position / room characteristics / how well the CD was recorded in the studio; you may spend some time moving the speakers around and listening to the effect it makes on the sound; it's free to do

4) a more expensive CD player can enhance the sound, but not beyond what was recorded on the CD in the studio; so if you have a poorly recorded CD nothing will help; learn to select those that sound good.

5) spend time listening, get familiar with your system, and keep asking questions;

You have great gear. From now on it's finding out how to best use it.

Nap. 

well said, Nap. and for Ryanz i would say that you could pimp your system by adding a Bryston pre. i made my own experience when i switched from a Pioneer receiver as a preamp to the Bryston BP26- man what a difference!!!
but like Nap already said wait a few month and get familiar with your system. use the time to visit a dealer, keep your questions asked here at AC and maybe at the end of the year you will make another decision.

al.

[Ryanz]

A preamp is going to be my next purchase. I will try my best to hold out for 6 months, it won't be easy though. I think I'm leaning towards the BP-6 with a DAC. Can someone explain to me what happens when a signal goes through two DAC's? And on a different subject. My Rotel is rated 5x75W or 2x100W. If I only have three speakers connected to the receiver, what will the Watts be, 75W or 100W? Thank you for the posts. I know these are some stupid questions, so I appreciate your patience. 

[Napalm]

A preamp is going to be my next purchase. I will try my best to hold out for 6 months, it won't be easy though. I think I'm leaning towards the BP-6 with a DAC. Can someone explain to me what happens when a signal goes through two DAC's? And on a different subject. My Rotel is rated 5x75W or 2x100W. If I only have three speakers connected to the receiver, what will the Watts be, 75W or 100W? Thank you for the posts. I know these are some stupid questions, so I appreciate your patience. 

Hi Ryanz,

You already have a DAC in your CD player and one in your Rotel receiver. It basically converts digital signal into analog signal. Once it's analog, you cannot submit it again to a DAC (unless you convert it back to digital via an ADC). So you can use *either* the DAC in the CD player (i.e. you connect the CD to the Rotel via analog cables) or the DAC in the Rotel (you connect the CD to the Rotel via a digital coax or optical cable). You don't need one more DAC (for now, we'll talk again about it in a couple of months).

As for the power it's difficult to say. There are two limiting factors - the total amount of power available from the transformer/power supply. That would be 5*75 = 375W. And the other limit is the power transistor max power - this would be 100W per channel. So, supposing that all the channels are of identical construction (same power transistors), you would have 3x100W (since you don't hit the 375W limit yet). However, if Rotel has used different construction for L/R and other channels (smaller transistors for the C / Rear channels), you would have 3x75W. Don't loose sleep over it, there's not that much difference between 75 and 100 anyway.

Nap. 

[Ryanz]

That makes sense, I was over thinking it. So in your opinion, which do you think would have the better DAC? The NAD or the Rotel? And when I get the BP-6 I imagine I would want to use that DAC, correct? Or am I just wasting money on adding the DAC to the BP-6? I'll contact Rotel about the power question.   

[Napalm]

That makes sense, I was over thinking it. So in your opinion, which do you think would have the better DAC? The NAD or the Rotel? And when I get the BP-6 I imagine I would want to use that DAC, correct? Or am I just wasting money on adding the DAC to the BP-6? I'll contact Rotel about the power question.

Only your ears can tell which one sounds best to you. People have different preferences when it comes to how music should sound. So test them yourself - connect them one way or the other, listen for some time, then switch. Don't forget that the final purpose is to enjoy the music. So don't go overboard and switch every 3 minutes. Listen to one full CD with one configuration then do the switch.

And do not buy anything else for now 

Nap. 

[skunark]

You might consider the BDA-1 with the BP6 if i remember correctly the DAC addon for the BP6 isn't that much cheaper but with much less inputs.

[James Tanner]

You might consider the BDA-1 with the BP6 if i remember correctly the DAC addon for the BP6 isn't that much cheaper but with much less inputs.

Hi,

Its $1,295 vs $2,150 US

james

[werd]

Hello

I am somewhat confused as to what your goals are here. Are you more interested in a HT system with 2
channel secondary or vica versa? Anyways

To Start, leave your amp and reciever on all the time. Unless you are goin on vac or there is a wicked electrical storm
going on. The 4B  sounds the best after a couple of days.

Unless you have a real decent cd player i would recommend you use the reciever as a dac and
Nad as a  transport. So you will need a decent digital coax connect. Use coax or optical. Of course this
is purely by taste so give both a try with the dac.

The preamp coordinates  all your sources and allows switching for listening. Imo most important part
of your preamp is its volume control. Lousy preamps typically only have a couple of good listening positions
where a good pre will be musical at every volume setting. Unfortunately the pre in your reciever will
probably not be that good. but its a reciever so what do you expect.

If you invest in a good pre avoid houseing a dac in it. I know I recommended the dac in the reciever but
it really makes it hard to isolate noise if the dac is in an analogue piece like the bp6.

Play with the reciever, not all rca inputs sound the same, just try diff inputs to see what happens.
You can make this fun or laborish. Hopefully you make it fun because the best way to get the most out of
a reciever by trying different settings and inputs, inc coax over opt.


gl

[Napalm]

Ryan: I've checked the specs here: http://www.rotel.com/NA/products/ProductDetails.htm?Id=470&Tab=2&Pic=4. According to them I believe it will do 3x100W.

Werd: hold your horses, you're overwhelming him. one thing at a time. if you're experimenting with too many variables at same time, you won't be any wiser on which does what.

Nap. 

[Napalm]

Hi,

Its $1,295 vs $2,150 US

james

Well, I'd go for the external one. More expensive, but more flexible and easier to sell if later you decide you can live without it or want something else.

Nap. 

[Ryanz]

WERD: I think the BDA-1 might be the right choice. I'll do some more research. My focus is HT, but have a strong desire for a high quality 2-Channel system as well. I would say I'm 60/40.

NAPALM: Regarding the specs, are you refering to the statement in the description tab? "The RSX-1550 provides virtually all of the same features found on the RSX-1560 but with a 5 x 100 watt per channel output design."

[Napalm]

NAPALM: Regarding the specs, are you refering to the statement in the description tab? "The RSX-1550 provides virtually all of the same features found on the RSX-1560 but with a 5 x 100 watt per channel output design."

And this:

Power Output
per channel (L/R, C, Sr/Sl)    100 watts (1kHz < 1.0% THD, 8 ohms, DIN)
Power Output
all channels driven    75 watts x 5/ch (20-20kHz, <0.05% THD, 8 ohms)

So basically it says that each channel is capable of 100W, but the total is limited to 375W. Which covers your 3X100W application.

Nap. 

[werd]

WERD: I think the BDA-1 might be the right choice. I'll do some more research. My focus is HT, but have a strong desire for a high quality 2-Channel system as well. I would say I'm 60/40.

NAPALM: Regarding the specs, are you refering to the statement in the description tab? "The RSX-1550 provides virtually all of the same features found on the RSX-1560 but with a 5 x 100 watt per channel output design."

BDA is a good piece. It opens a lot audio alternatives and still can be an excellent 2ch dac for cd. Its a sound investment..... hehe

[Ryanz]

NAPALM: For some reason my brain couldn't process the specs when I was doing my original research. Thank you.

WERD: I don't doubt it one bit. It's going to be a looooong six months.

On a seperate note. Last night I was watching a movie, and got up to turn the heater on in the bedroom, so when I turned the heater on something happened that made the lights flicker, and my receiver and amp turned off. I have all my equipment plugged into a surge protector, except for the amp, it's plugged straight into the outlet. The surge protector didn't trip, and none of the other components turned off, just the amp and receiver. Weird. Should I get a surge protector for my amp? And any ideas why only those two components turned off?   

[skunark]

Sounds like your heater and stereo are on the same circuit, perhaps both deserve dedicated lines. 

[Napalm]

On a seperate note. Last night I was watching a movie, and got up to turn the heater on in the bedroom, so when I turned the heater on something happened that made the lights flicker, and my receiver and amp turned off. I have all my equipment plugged into a surge protector, except for the amp, it's plugged straight into the outlet. The surge protector didn't trip, and none of the other components turned off, just the amp and receiver. Weird. Should I get a surge protector for my amp? And any ideas why only those two components turned off?

You didn't actually have a surge (defined as a spike in voltage way over 120V), you had a drop in voltage (under 120V, due to load on circuits). The regular surge protectors don't trip at drops.

Those components are probably having some nice power supplies inside that will disconnect them when voltage is abnormal.

There are some surge protectors that will trip on both surge and drops:

http://www.panamax.com/Products/Default.aspx

Since these are protection devices, you are allowed to buy one ASAP . Read about them then we could discuss which one is appropriate for your application. Will let you $200-300 poorer. But safer.

Nap.