[WireNut]

Put the magnets in  from  the rear  before you  glue the baffles on.  Drill em just deep enoght so that you leave a real  thin layer of wood above them.  just be careful  when  pressing them in  that you  don't push  too  far and break through the baffle.  Us e good strong  magnets.
I used these on my last build,  they worked well.   
http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D46-N52

-jay

+1 on those magnets. They're supper strong. We use them at work inside of machined plastic parts for Proctor and Gamble. Assemblers use epoxy to glue them in place if pressing isn't applicable.


 

[mlundy57]

Thanks again I'll go the from the back route. I would think a bottoms out (or whatever you call a flat bottom cutting bit in woodworking) would work best.

Jay, I really appreciate your build thread for the N3. Gave me the confidence to try this myself.

[Captainhemo]

Glad it helped
Just take your time and   ask questions if need be,    I got lots advice from     the folks here  too ,  everyone is  a huge help.
Looking forward to floowing along  with your thread

-jay

[fishboat]

I would think a bottoms out (or whatever you call a flat bottom cutting bit in woodworking) would work best.

Forstner bit

[Danny Richie]

Well mlundy57, I was going to come back to this thread to answer your questions, but it appears that the fine group of people that are part of this community have already answered your questions quite well.

Thank you all.

[lacro]

I did the same as Lacro and PDR. Worked great for me. I suggested the over and undersize endmills since you already own a jig in 1/16" increments. The tool bit in the router pic is a .500 carbide 4 flute center cutting endmill. The center fixture pin is an 1/8" steel dowel.

Do you use HSS or carbide end mills? Are ends mills designed for the same speeds as router bits? I know some routers hit 20-30K rpms. I like the idea of the over/under size to fine tune, and the 4 flute. Good thread... learn something new all the time

Larry

[mlundy57]

Larry,

I was wondering the same thing about the end mills. After I got to thinking about it, whenever I used end mills in the shop (I was a line mechanic in a factory for a number of years) I used them at low rpms and constant lubrication. But then I was always cutting metal. I have never used end mills with wood.

Would a forstner bit in a drill press be the way to cut the 1/2" diameter ears in the tweeter hole of the A/V-1? Or would some other method work better? 

I have revised my plan a little. I am going to build a pair of stock A/V-1's first. This will give me experience building the simplest box and crossover first and will let me hear what the least expensive GR model sounds like. My second build project will still most likely be the N3 and N3S combo fully upgraded.

If it doesn't rain this afternoon I will probably roll the table saw out of the garage and start cutting today.

[lacro]

Larry,

I was wondering the same thing about the end mills. After I got to thinking about it, whenever I used end mills in the shop (I was a line mechanic in a factory for a number of years) I used them at low rpms and constant lubrication. But then I was always cutting metal. I have never used end mills with wood.

Would a forstner bit in a drill press be the way to cut the 1/2" diameter ears in the tweeter hole of the A/V-1? Or would some other method work better? 

I have revised my plan a little. I am going to build a pair of stock A/V-1's first. This will give me experience building the simplest box and crossover first and will let me hear what the least expensive GR model sounds like. My second build project will still most likely be the N3 and N3S combo fully upgraded.

If it doesn't rain this afternoon I will probably roll the table saw out of the garage and start cutting today.

I used a Forstner bit for the port hole, but this is what I used for tweeter ear clearance:

[WireNut]

Hi Mlundy57,

 I’ll use carbide whenever possible. If I can’t find a certain size carbide endmill with the correct shank size or flute length needed then I’ll look into Cobalt or high speed steel endmills. Carbide will hold up longer then Cobalt or high speed steel. The 1/2’’ carbide mill seen in the pic was run full tilt in the router cutting MDF, cutting steel or alum would be much slower and coolant would be used. I like to set my router diameter one time and rough out with something like a 3/8 or 7/16 endmill or router bit then change to a 1/2’’ for finishing. A downcut solid carbide router bit may be something to look at if your cutting veneered plywood as they push the chips down into the wood and may be less likely to lift or chip the veneer. Carbide cutting tools don’t come cheap.

[WireNut]

Note: Not all Cobalt or high speed steel endmills are center cutting for plunging. When ordering cobalt or high speed endmills that will be used to plunge make sure to select a 2 flute endmill, or a 4 flute center cutting endmill. Carbide endmills 2 or multi flute will typically be center cutting. Also don't forget about the shank size and different flute lengths available.


Endmills are suggested as an alternative to router bits. Not to say one or the other is better.


Center cutting endmills




Non center cutting endmills

[fschris]

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=365-270&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

This circle jig works very well, you set it up for whatever size you need with calipers or tape.

Neil

+1 .... I like this a bit better than the circle jig and a digital caliper makes its easy.  Like others have said do a test cut!

[WireNut]

West system’s epoxy is awesome stuff for bonding and gap filling in any wood working project IE: loudspeakers. Your saw cut joints don’t quite meet up, no problem, use the epoxy/filler mixture and they’re solid as a rock. Available in three different sizes and price points. Rockler carries at least one size. I always keep this stuff on hand, It's an excellent product. 

No affiliation.

[mlundy57]

Thanks everybody. That epoxy looks like what is used on wooden kayaks. I think West Marine carries it also.

What material is best for grill frames?

I have begun. I cut out all the panels for a pair of A/V-1's and panels and braces for a pair of N1X's. Once I get the grill frames cut out I will be done with the table saw work.

I have received the circle jig that was recommended and the magnets are on the way, be here Tuesday. However Murphy struck with the jig. I have two routers but the jig isn't drilled for either of them. So now it is either modify a router base or get another router that the jig will fit.

[cody69]

I have received the circle jig that was recommended and the magnets are on the way, be here Tuesday. However Murphy struck with the jig. I have two routers but the jig isn't drilled for either of them. So now it is either modify a router base or get another router that the jig will fit.

That happens since there's no standard for router base size, shape and screw layout. You may want to consider drilling holes in the circle jig to match your router base, and counter-sink to give the screw heads clearance.

[mlundy57]

As it turns out, even though my router is not listed in the compatibility section the jig does fit and center up just fine. Hopefully I'll get to route some holes this weekend. However, since we are hosting my wife's family Sunday for Mother's Day and she has a list of honey-dos a mile long for tomorrow I may not get any cutting done.

I did learn one thing, my table saw is not square. It's plenty close enough for the projects I do around the house but not for making tight fitting joints all the way around a box.

Filler here I come.

[bdp24]

I've used a hand held router only. When I get a plunger, will any and all of them allow one to make a driver recess and then through-hole? Since I already have the Bosch Palm Router, can I just get an add-on that will turn it into a plunge capable router? Or is it better to get a separate router, that will accept 1/2" shank bits (the Palm will only use 1/4"). Is the Bosch router table that the hand-held will attach to a worthwhile addition? Thanks---Eric.

[WC]

I have the Colt Palm router also. If you want it to last I would make multiple passes to cut out the speaker cutout. With a more powerful router you could do it in one pass with a 1/2" bit.

[WireNut]

With a more powerful router you could do it in one pass with a 1/2" bit.

 Having a router that will except 1/4 and 1/2 inch shank bits opens up a lot more cutters options. That can be a big plus.

 Cutting thru 1.5 inches of wood with a 1/2" diameter by 2" long bit goes pretty smooth. That tool will be pretty darn rigid even at 2" long and won't chatter as long as you don't bury it. Stepping over with a small diameter tool leaves more room for error with uneven depths of cut and is also much more time consuming. My Bosch router has a plunge and a solid base. For me, not having the plunge base would have been a real bummer even with center cutting tools. 

 Also consider if you want to make a good size chamfer or radius those tools are going to be large in diameter and will usually only be available with a 1/2 inch shank.

A 3/8 diameter router bit with a 1/4 shank is on the left. The rest are 1/2 inch shank bits.



 I don't usually express my feelings about one product or another as there's always someone that will put it down. But in this case I would like to say that the West System Epoxy is an invaluable tool in anyone's tool box. Not affiliated.

Steve

[Captainhemo]

If you are going to buy a plunge router anyhow,  I'd also recommend  you  get one that comes with both 1/4" and 1/2" collets.  Also remember  , yo usually end up geting what you  pay for.... I bought an el cheapo Caftsman plunge router on sale for $100 .  It's 9.5 ampos and 1 3/4 peak HP   and it  cuts  really well BUT,  it is made cheap.    The first one,  the plunge depth adjust met lock screw stripped as i is    a steel screw which  threads into aluminum.  i was  cutting some  counter sinks one day and it slipped so I   tightened a bit more  and that was  it.
Sears is good,  they exchanged it without any hassle  but  I can tell that   this is going to be something I will have to watch  for again.  Just keep it in mind  when you're out shopping

-jay

[bdp24]

Thanks guys. As I get further into it, I realize "Hey, I can do this!". It's not brain surgery, but it sure enough requires knowledge and skills. I guess you just gotta jump in and learn how to swim!