[birkbott]

Looking for recommendations for baffle/cabinet rounding. In general and specifically for the X-LS Encires.

I’m thinking a 3/8” all around the front baffle and 1/4” everywhere else.

I also thought about 3/8” on the sides of the front baffle and then chamfer on all other edges.

Anybody have any preferred methods and/or does this affect the sound in any way?

[Peter J]

Sonically, it's best to have at least 3/8" radius on sides and top of baffle, all else is up to you, as it's primarily visual.

My mind's eye see weird  corner intersections between bevels and roundovers or even varying roundovers. Also bear in mind, that a corner done with a bearing guided cutter can look different from one cut along a fence of table saw or router table.

I'd  encourage you to do some mockups on scraps and see what looks best to you.

[birkbott]

Sonically, it's best to have at least 3/8" radius on sides and top of baffle, all else is up to you, as it's primarily visual.

My mind's eye see weird  corner intersections between bevels and roundovers or even varying roundovers. Also bear in mind, that an corner done with a bearing guided cutter can look different from on cut along a fence of table saw or router table.

I'd  encourage you to do some mockups on scraps and see what looks best to you.

I’ve seen designs like below that have rounded sides but chamfered around the top.


Do you think roundover on top improves vertical dispersion?

If so maybe something more like this is better?


Or maybe like this rounded all over:

[birkbott]

Here’s a weird one rounded on the front but chamfered on the top:

[Peter J]

Yes to the roundover on top edge.  My understanding is that it works in the same way as vertical edge roundovers which affect edge diffraction. Sharp edge is less desirable, but not a absolute deal killer. I know Danny has measured such and perhaps he can comment.

As to looks...to each their own. I like thinking outside the norm, but visual appeal is all about individual perception. To my eye, the bevel and roundover combo look odd, the primed cabinet less so, perhaps because the bevel follows the roundover around the corner. The others look more balanced. I suppose some of the difference in appearance depends  on whether cabinet will be wood  showing or painted.  I do like the monolithic look of painted cabinets with all corners rounded which strikes me as a more contemporary design.

[birkbott]

Yes to the roundover on top edge.  My understanding is that it works in the same way as vertical edge roundovers which affect edge diffraction. Sharp edge is less desirable, but not a absolute deal killer. I know Danny has measured such and perhaps he can comment.

As to looks...to each their own. I like thinking outside the norm, but visual appeal is all about individual perception. To my eye, the bevel and roundover combo look odd, the primed cabinet less so, perhaps because the bevel follows the roundover around the corner. The others look more balanced. I suppose some of the difference in appearance depends  on whether cabinet will be wood  showing or painted.  I do like the monolithic look of painted cabinets with all corners rounded which strikes me as a more contemporary design.

Agreed. I’m planning on doing mine in white with white grill cloth so I’m thinking roundover all over may work.

[mlundy57]

Here's a pair of X-LS Encores with 3/4" roundovers on all four edges of the front and rear baffle and 1/4" on the sides.

[birkbott]

Here's a pair of X-LS Encores with 3/4" roundovers on all four edges of the front and rear baffle and 1/4" on the sides.

That’s cool, did you do the front first and then the others? Or the other way around?

[mlundy57]

I did the front and back first, sides next, them smoothed the corners with sandpaper

[WGH]

Always route the end grain first, then route the edges with the grain. Cut a big round over in 2 or 3 passes, lowering the bit a little for each pass.
If the wood is curly or burled then it has to be 'climb-cut' to eliminate chip out. Google the term if you don't know about it. Not too dangerous but you have to know what to expect, always practice on a scrap first and firmly clamp everything.

[birkbott]

Good tips.

I’m assuming everyone waits until the box is assembled to do the routing, right?

Any thoughts on installing the crossover and no- Rez prior to gluing the front baffle and then routing? Good idea or no?

[mlundy57]

Always route the end grain first, then route the edges with the grain. Cut a big round over in 2 or 3 passes, lowering the bit a little for each pass.
If the wood is curly or burled then it has to be 'climb-cut' to eliminate chip out. Google the term if you don't know about it. Not too dangerous but you have to know what to expect, always practice on a scrap first and firmly clamp everything.

Definitely route end grain first, always. The figured Ambrosia maple (though to me, spalted tiger maple is a better description) fit the description of curly, I didn't do any climb cutting. I took very shallow passes using a Freud quad cutter bit and with a sacrificial backing piece on every cut.

Good tips.

I’m assuming everyone waits until the box is assembled to do the routing, right?

Any thoughts on installing the crossover and no- Rez prior to gluing the front baffle and then routing? Good idea or no?

Yes, after the box is complete and you have completed filling and sanding to 150 or 180 grit. 

I install No-Rez before I glue the front baffle on. It's just easier for me that way. I don't install the crossover until the cabinet is fully finished. There is going to be a lot of sawdust getting into the cabinet when you cut the roundovers. It's easy to vacuum out but I wouldn't want it in a crossover.

[birkbott]

Definitely route end grain first, always. The figured Ambrosia maple (though to me, spalted tiger maple is a better description) fit the description of curly, I didn't do any climb cutting. I took very shallow passes using a Freud quad cutter bit and with a sacrificial backing piece on every cut.

Yes, after the box is complete and you have completed filling and sanding to 150 or 180 grit. 

I install No-Rez before I glue the front baffle on. It's just easier for me that way. I don't install the crossover until the cabinet is fully finished. There is going to be a lot of sawdust getting into the cabinet when you cut the roundovers. It's easy to vacuum out but I wouldn't want it in a crossover.

Gotcha, thanks. I’m planning on finishing with white Duratex using a fine paint roller I’m assuming the same sanding schedule applies?

Also planning on sinking some magnets for a grill and covering with a little wood filler has anyone tried that and does it work?

[mlundy57]

Getting the cabinet flat and all voids and seams filled is not as necessary with Dura-Tex as it is with paint or veneer. The smoother the texture you’re going for, the better the surface prep needs to be.

I use epoxy to fill the magnet holes. Sink the magnets deep enough in the baffle so there is 1/16” to 1/8” of epoxy over the top of the magnet. If the magnet is not snug in the hole, use some gel super glue in the hole first. Hold the magnet down until the glue dries then fill the hole with epoxy. You don’t want the magnet to drift up while the epoxy dries. It’s a royal pain if the magnet ends up proud of the baffle. Use N52 magnets.

[birkbott]

Getting the cabinet flat and all voids and seams filled is not as necessary with Dura-Tex as it is with paint or veneer. The smoother the texture you’re going for, the better the surface prep needs to be.

I use epoxy to fill the magnet holes. Sink the magnets deep enough in the baffle so there is 1/16” to 1/8” of epoxy over the top of the magnet. If the magnet is not snug in the hole, use some gel super glue in the hole first. Hold the magnet down until the glue dries then fill the hole with epoxy. You don’t want the magnet to drift up while the epoxy dries. It’s a royal pain if the magnet ends up proud of the baffle. Use N52 magnets.

Ok I guess the Duratex does ok right over the epoxy? I’m looking for the magnets to be invisible when the grill is removed.

[mlundy57]

Yes, Dura-Tex, primer, veneer all will adhere to the epoxy

[birkbott]

I'm assuming any sonic difference with regards to baffle roundover would occur mostly in the high frequency (tweeter) range, and that roundover on something like a subwoofer would be for cosmetic reasons only, would that be a fair statement?

[Peter J]

I'm assuming any sonic difference with regards to baffle roundover would occur mostly in the high frequency (tweeter) range, and that roundover on something like a subwoofer would be for cosmetic reasons only, would that be a fair statement?

Correct.

On another note concerning magnets for grill. I've set in epoxy, then filled remaining recess with body filler. Epoxy sometimes ends up leaving a divot.

 In my "build threads" for X-Otica and X-SLS, I show a couple different methods. Whatever you do, make sure to get the polarity of magnets aligned between grill and box, otherwise you may have a grill repulsion system!

[birkbott]

Correct.

On another note concerning magnets for grill. I've set in epoxy, then filled remaining recess with body filler. Epoxy sometimes ends up leaving a divot.

 In my "build threads" for X-Otica and X-SLS, I show a couple different methods. Whatever you do, make sure to get the polarity of magnets aligned between grill and box, otherwise you may have a grill repulsion system!

I can definitely see myself doing this.  I have reminded myself many times to be careful when doing this part.

[Peter J]

If you use method I show here, polarity is less of a concern. It self matches, you might say. In doing this way, the grills typically become matched to a particular orientation. Meaning they'll be matched to the box itself.

If it's a concern, you can put magnets on side for grill storage as well.

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